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FIDM X BLACK DESIGN COLLECTIVE POP-UP

11/17/2019

(Left to right) TJ walker, Angela Dean, Kevan Hall: Founders of the Black Design Collective

As a champion of new and emerging designers and as an editor who is so passionate about trying to shed light on them, I constantly see how hard it is to break into the fashion industry. At least from the periphery I witness the struggle. Add being a person of color on top of the everyday challenge’s other designers face and that struggle becomes even harder.

That’s why it’s not only necessary but so important that the incredible Black Design Collective exists. Co-founded by Angela Dean, Kevan Hall and TJ walker, the Black Design Collective is there to help designers of color break into the fashion industry. Offering scholarships as well as real tangible advice to designers, giving them the opportunity to learn more about the logistical steps it takes to break in or to elevate their business to make it even more of a success.

On Saturday 11th November I was invited by FIDM who was hosting the Black Design Collective’s first annual pop-up showcase to meet the three founders as well as some of the emerging designers who are now a part of the Black Design Collective.

(FIDM event photos by Tyler Curtis ABImages)

Stacy Fan at the Black Design Collective Pop-up.

Kevan Hall

I first speak to co-founder and designer, Kevan Hall who has dressed everyone from First Lady Michelle Obama to Charlize Theron and Viola Davis. Hall tells me, “We started this organization for several reasons, we wanted to be able to mentor young design students and not only students but also colleagues who might have questions like, ‘How do I market my collection? How do I take my business to the next level? Where can I find zippers and buttons, where are the good pattern makers?’ So we really came together as a community to support and uplift one another. And secondly, we wanted to start a scholarship fund. We started one to help design students pursue their dreams of being either a fashion designer or a costume designer. So this year we gave a $10,000 scholarship fund to a design student, Devert Monet Hickman, Ruth Carter the costume designer Oscar winner for Black Panther gave him that scholarship back in April. We also are creating a platform for designers to be able to sell their clothing online under the Black Designer Collective banner. So people will be able to shop the homepage and link to the designer’s websites, so that is something that is in the works. And then we do workshops and seminars and things that have to do with funding and financing. We really look at the scope and ask, what is the need of the designer? How can we help them move their business and inform that and expose their talent to the world?”

Kevan continues, “It’s a legacy, what can we do for the next generation of designers to work at a very high level”

Kevan Hall has his own incredible collection that really is about fitting into a woman’s life. Ponte dresses that are both comfortable and keep you looking put together. Taking his woman from the office to the bar with office appropriate dresses that will look just as good for a dinner with friends. Easy to wear pieces that are designed to either be worn from head to toe looks, such as his trouser twin set top / pantsuit perfect for work or as separates at the weekend. Blazers that can be worn over dresses, or over a pair of jeans. Stunning white shirts that can be worn with workwear trousers or for an evening event paired with a ball gown skirt. Silhouettes that represent those who like more of a bodycon style as well as those who are more inclined to a softer more billowy aesthetic. All sizes and all ages are covered.

For more information visit: www.kevanhalldesigns.com

Angela Dean: PRESIDENT AND CO-FOUNDER OF THE BLACK DESIGN COLLECTIVE. FOUNDER OF DEANZIGN / SHAPED BY AN ANGEL

For Dean, whose incredible career in the fashion industry has seen her dress celebrities including Halle Berry, Jada Pinkett Smith and Queen Latifah for the 30th anniversary of “Essense” Magazine, started up the Black Design Collective when she heard Nelson’s Report that African American’s spend 1.2 trillion dollars consuming fashion. Dean felt that they needed to come together as a community to see how she could bring more awareness to black designers, Dean tells me, “I have been in the fashion and entertainment industry for over thirty years, I was the original creator of Madonna’s bullet bra. Gaultier did a rendition of it for the tour but I had done the original and no one ever knew that so I never got the credit for it. Unfortunately if you weren’t able to afford a great publicist, have the money to really get your name out there in the days when I was coming through, they would just take it and not acknowledge you at all because you weren’t of a certain named brand. I just continued to do my work and just continued to add to my body of work. So when I got with everyone and asked them, did you have 1% of that 1.2 trillion, or if they even had even a half a percent of that, and of course everyone’s answer was no, so we started to just become aware that we really needed to come together as a community to bring awareness to the fact that we exist and that we are consuming dollars, especially African American’s, are very stylish people, they wear a lot of amazing clothes, they create their own amazing looks, a lot of that has come from the trenches of us and them being creative. So we should be able to know that they exist so they can have a choice.”

Dean continues, “Ruth Carter is a friend of mine and I had noticed that she had never been recognized for her body of work. She’s got various awards for movies but she hasn’t been recognized for her body of work. I thought that was super important.”

This ignited something in Dean, and she told Kevan that they needed to go to FIDM to see if they would be interested in hosting an event. FIDM jumped on board, and so the pop-up came about, bringing in other designers that represent the history and relevancy to the world. Taking on this mission, Dean tells me she wants to spread it not just in America (starting with Los Angeles and New York), but eventually with the hope of rolling it out globally by 2022. “We want to create generational wealth the way the Ralph Lauren’s have and the Valentino’s have, we deserve to have those opportunities.” Dean’s incredible vision is exemplified in front of me as I see the wonderful designers she has already touched with the Black Design Collective, her vision and her drive to pay it forward.

“Collectively we can do so much more than we can individually” Dean says, “So we can have a bigger voice like we see today. We are able to see all the beautiful work of some of the selected designers and this is just a small portion of it.” FIDM have been a huge supporter as Dean tells me, “We have to thank FIDM because they have been one of our major supporters and sponsors for these types of events and they have just embraced our community and embraced us. Kevan and I are alumni’s and we went to Toni (Tonian Hohberg) the owner and told her what our plight was and she was all in from the beginning.”

TJ Walker, Ruth E. Carter, Devert Monet-Hickman (receiving the Black Design scholarship) Angela Dean and Kevan Hall

Angela Dean THE DESIGNER

As I speak to Dean about her beautiful collection that she has brought to the pop-up today, she tells me just one of the stories she has from her rich career in the industry, that of her and Nat King Cole, “I did her album Unforgettable. I remember sitting in the driveway of her house, sitting in her BMW listening to her CD, I’ll never forget it, of her and her dad singing together.”

Dean continues, “I do a lot of bespoke, but I have also started to do ready-to-wear. I go from evening, to the aesthetic of what I think is important. I am a classic designer but I love beautiful fabrics and clean lines.” However Dean lights up when she tells me about her biggest accomplishment to date, “I have created a shapewear line called Shaped By An Angel.

I created and designed these shapewear designs based on the five most common body types. So they are customized to the various body types. And the panels I’ve put in work to accentuate those various areas that are problem areas and they are compression. So it’s compression shapewear which helps with blood flow, reduces cellulite, our fabric is very high-end, in terms of the fact that it keeps you from having bacteria, keeps you cool and fresh, you can work out in it so they have a lot of various different properties, it just shows the various ways you can transform the body. It has been one of the highlights of my career. This is a passion now for me. I have done the entertainment business, I have done custom work, but there is nothing like changing a woman’s body and mindset instantaneously. You can put on a dress and feel great but if you have got on a great shaper, oh my god, it changes the game. I don’t care how big or how little you are, if you can change their shape you’ve got something special.” Indeed she does.

For more information visit: www.shapedbyanangel.com / www.deanzign.com

TJ WALKER

One of the co-founders of Black Design Collective as well as a FIDM instructor and co-founder (along with Carl Jones) of streetwear brand, Cross Color which is currently celebrating its 30th anniversary with an exhibition at The California African American Museum in Los Angeles has a lot to celebrate. With a celebrity following including the likes of Will Smith, Snoop Dog, Tupac Shakur, Cardi B and Bruno Mars the collection Walker is showing today he tells me, is based upon “The project we did back in the 90s. We started in 1989 and this celebrates our 30th anniversary of the brand. The baseball top is based on the one that Bruno Mars wore on the stage at the Grammys when he performed.”

Walker continues, “We are really excited about (the pop-up) it’s one of our first steps in actually showing people locally that we have local black designers, that are not only making clothes here in Los Angeles but actually located here in Los Angeles. We want to make people aware that we actually have fashion here too. Not just the East Coast and Europe, but here too!”

To find out more visit: www.crosscolours.com
https://www.blackdesigncollective.com

THE DESIGNERS

SERGIO HUDSON

A stunning luxury women’s ready to wear label that is both designed and produced in Los Angeles. With a collection that includes incredible statement pieces as well as and classic wardrobe staples that manage to be both timeless and fashion forward at the same time.

Hero pieces include the tuxedo jumpsuit, as well as their backless little black dress which will look as fitting 50 years from now as it does today. With celebrity fans including Rihanna, Jennifer Lopez, Serena Williams, Kendall Jenner and Amal Clooney.

For more information visit: www.sergiohudson.com

Charles Harbison / HARBISON COLLECTION

A beautiful collection that plays around with the male inspired trend, “Allowing her to occupy the space in a masculine way whilst maintaining her femininity.” This includes stunning outerwear, a skirt that has an apron at the front that doubles up as a skirt in style, playing around with a toughened up feminine silhouette. The collection also explores graphics and color blocking, jackets with leather detailing and art blocking pieces which are now synonymous with the HARBISON brand. A beautifully unique dress that is both structured but lightweight which makes it perfect for warmer climates or even when considering what to pack when traveling. Often dresses with this kind of structure can weigh as much as a coat so it’s refreshing to find a dress that has all the beautiful structure of a thicker dress without that weight.

Harbison still has a lot of fun with his collection, with unique color blocking as well as unexpected texture detailing on some of the pieces including a color block detailed skirt.

For more information visit: www.harbisoncollection.com

GEOFF DURAN

Duran has created a truly unique brand consisting of custom suiting, with impeccably tailored shirts. The idea behind each shirt being, you don’t need a tie to wear one. The detailing on the collar of the shirts as well as detailing throughout the body is giving men far more options than previously offered by menswear brands. Duran noted that the first thing men do when they leave the office and go to a lounge, is take off the tie and undo the collar. To feel more relaxed, yes, but also to look a little more cool. His shirts give a “non-conforming attitude and juxtaposition of tailoring and sportwear”.

This collection is inspired by the French Military uniforms from the 1800’s. The gold chain detailing is inspired by hip-hop; the use of the gold chain was very popular and has helped inform the pieces in Duran’s collection, it also symbolizes the high medals of the high-ranking officials. Another distinguishing feature of the brand are the diamond details on the collar pin on the shirts. Paying homage to the state Duran is from, Arkansol, also known as the unofficial diamond state, (the state flag even features a diamond on it). The three stars represent the three principles of Duran’s brand which are excellence, continuity and society.

Duran’s brand builds meaning to everything that he creates. This collection is called the M5K, which is short for the Mandarin five thousand. The mandarin, collar has Duran’s own take it on it, disproportionate and set with a more casual finish, with no button. Going back full circle as to why Duran created this collection, no tie, required and the button, well it isn’t even there. The M5K informal collection shirt is a tuxedo style made, as with all the shirts, with prima cotton, the purple colors in the inside of each shirt represent passion and the green represent creativity. One of Duran’s favorites, the M5K Super, inspired by medieval movies such as 300, Duran always loved the costumes with the breastplates to protect themselves. So much so that he’s created a shirt that translates that breastplate on to his shirt but on a diagonal to mimic the diamonds, but gives it a superhero feel. Jon magazine featured this shirt in one of their editorials.

I even got a sneak peek at Duran's next collection and if possible, it’s even more stunning than his current. With one knock out shirt that is going to be a limited edition in the collection, Geoff Duran may well become your go to brand if you really want a shirt that’s going to make you stand out from the crowd.

www.geoffduran.com

OKERA BANKS / OTG ESSENTIALS BY OKERA BANKS

Celebrity stylist and designer, Okera Banks saw a need to create a collection of women’s clothing that she simply couldn’t find on the market. She is a busy woman, going from being a mom, a caretaker to her mother, to going on set where she works as a stylist, and may even then have an event to go to in the evening and she needed, required her wardrobe to work hard to get her through each of these situations in her life all the while allowing her to be comfortable and to feel sexy and most importantly do it with ‘swag’. Banks’ collection is here for, “Today’s swaged-out and sophisticated entrepreneurs, fashion conscious trend-setters and travelers on-the-go who want comfort and ease with impeccable style.”

Banks was literally designing for herself and for other women like her as she tells me, “One thing that never dies is comfort. It started with a tube dress, I was like I can’t find a tube dress when I need a tube dress, so I made one, so it happened very organically. I had other designs in me, and people really responded well to it. They were like, can I get that? We are all working women, some are moms, some aren’t but we all have this life that moves and we just sort of forget about ourselves, we wear t-shirts and jeans or workout wear. I mean I love a good pair of sweatpants but they aren’t clothes. How do we hold on to looking chic after life happens?”

Banks found the solution. The pieces in the collection can be mixed up and changed up. Add a pair of pumps to the jumpsuit and throw on one of Banks’ fuchsia pink swag jag or a leather jacket and you’re ready for a night out. Change the same look up with a pair of sandals, pull the bottom of the pantsuit up and you have an outfit ready for the beach. A collection of clothes that works for your life and works for you, but most importantly is comfortable whilst still giving you that swag.

For more information visit: www.otgessentials.com

melena ruth / melena ruth design

Melena Ruth has created a beautiful collection of bags, many of which are made up of tapestry that are made by women in South Africa. Ruth is slowly introducing tapestry from other places in the world. The one that she is introducing first is one from Guatemala. With a selection of clutches, backpacks and work bags.

Her inspiration in starting up her brands was the hand embroidery. Ruth wanted to find a way to give back to the people in Africa. Most of the women there live on under two dollars a day and she thought if she could take what they make it make it into a beautiful piece, then she can share the proceeds of the profits with them, with the main goal Ruth tells me, “Of sending their girls to school, so that’s the story of why I wanted to start it up.”

Model : Kennedy Zimet

Made up of Italian leather, and made in Los Angeles these stunning bags are pieces you can feel good about buying and look beautiful wearing.

For more information visit: http://www.malenaruth.com

BT TAYLOR / BT TAYLOR JEWELRY

Artist, child activist and poet, Taylor came to make jewelry, initially just for himself. It was peaceful for him. However when he was wearing his jewelry people would want to buy it from him, literally buying pieces from him off of his own body! So Taylor created his own collection. His inspiration is indigenous people from around the world. His one of a kind jewelry is hand-crafted using semi-precious gemstones, metals and ethnic beads.

Taylor has been working with incarcerated children for over twenty years, and even now gives jewelry classes to the children that he works with. Taylor tells me that he loves being a part of The Black Design Collective, signing up as soon as he could and learning so much from the workshops that have been made available to him.

WARAIRE BOSWELL / WARAIRE

Jasmine Williams representing the brand at the pop-up

Designer Waraire Boswell

Designer Boswell is primarily known for his suiting, as well as more relaxed pieces. However Boswell’s most current collection, and all those going forward are unisex.

Included in the collection are some PJ suits, some t-shirts, and jackets. The collection balance both comfort and luxury for both men and women. Included in the collection is fine suiting and striking loungewear.

Boswell was inspired by those who aren’t comfortable in suits but didn’t necessarily just want to wear joggers. Standing at 6 foot 7, the designer had a growth spurt from his eleventh year in high school to his senior year and because he couldn’t find clothes that fit, this served as an incentive to start his own brand. Now going on to his seventeenth year as a designer, Boswell’s fans include Jay Z, LeBron James, Kobe Bryant.

For more information visit:

https://waraireboswell.com

With thanks to FIDM and the Black Design Collective.

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Badgley Mischka SS20

9/18/2019

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Walking into Spring Studios Gallery, where Mark Badgley and James Mischka had set the stage for their SS20 collection, I was surrounded by stunning dresses, and that was before the runway show had started. Strong fans of the design duo were wearing their pieces with pride as they floated their way to the seats. Despite the warmth of the sun outside, I had decided to wear their sequin wool trench and wasn’t veering from my plans despite the beaming sun outside.

A white archway served as the entrance of the runway, and beautiful pale pink lighting set the scene for the show. Whispers of “hush” were uttered, and two men wearing black pulled the covering of the runway off to reveal a sparkling white floor.

Stacy Fan at Badgley Mischka

The designers are now official bicoastal, spreading their time between New York and Los Angeles. I had sat down a few months prior to the show with the designers at a luncheon hosted by Barbara Bundy, (VP of Education at FIDM and director of the FIDM museum) and the designers shared their love for the West coast.

Stacy Fan with Mark Badgley and James Mischka

Barbara Bundy with Mark Badgley and James Mischka

We can instantly see the love of that sunny California lifestyle as the show begins as it seems to have informed their SS20 collection. The first look, a beautifully feminine suit in a gorgeous mint green that popped as it was adorned with hibiscus flowers that look like they were being gently swept away in a cool summer breeze, styled perfectly with a matching shoe and orange and mint green earrings.

The print ran through several pieces in the collection in the form of a delicate summer dress with sequins, a lux gown with exaggerated sleeves and another breathtaking dress that was versatile enough to make an ideal evening gown or a fabulous beach cover up on a boat sailing over the Malibu waters. The print appeared to be influenced by the Caribbean however that California sun seems to have been a big influence in both style and color palette as that vacation vibe meets high glamour made the perfect combination.

Bikinis and swimsuits were just as spectacular, paired with long flowing coverups that showed the versatility of the pieces and reiterating that vacation feel as we imagine ourselves going seamlessly from poolside to bar.

Despite the emphasis on easy breezy holiday feels, it wouldn’t be a Badgley Mischka show without the highly constructed evening gowns that the designers are so synonymous with, an impeccable sequin gown that once again explored that exaggerated sleeve. This time a silhouette reminiscent of the 30’s and 40’s whilst another with a ruffled tiered dress amped up the drama. A white gown with collar detailing that highlighted the feminine collar bone, with its small train and hip embellishment looked like a piece suitable for royalty.

The collection then moved into more modern pieces, a V neck gown that would be ideal for a modern-day bride or a nominated actress at the Oscars. A pale pastel sleeveless striped dress with embellished collar neck and a low-cut white long-sleeved dress, with flower embellishments. The front row were literally gasping as each piece made its way down the runway.

The collection was the most beautiful blend of high glamour meets chic vacation wardrobe as the designers made each piece look effortless and floaty in movement on even the more structured silhouettes. What appeared at first to be West coasts gain with the designers recent move, certainly seems to be something we’re all benefiting from as this SS20 collection has shown. This bi-coastal lifestyle is clearly working for the duo!

Photos courtesy of Badgley Mischka

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Hogan McLaughlin : SS20 SOLANACEAE

9/14/2019

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Since Hogan McLaughlin’s first Spring 2012 collection, Kaidan, we can see where the designer has come from, and how he has evolved. Despite having no formal design training, McLaughlin’s collections all bring with them true precision with his design, and with it a sense of ferocity, darkness and truth. Influenced by his dance background, the designer knows movement and with each collection has consistently created a beautiful juxtaposition of both sculptured punctilious rigidity as well as a smoothness and elegance of movement and this collection is no exception.

This sense of truth and darkness continues with McLaughlin’s SS20 collection which is entitled, “Solanaceae” taking inspiration from the 1973 psychedelic animated feature, Belladonna of Sadness.Telling the story of an abused medieval woman who takes revenge on her abusers by becoming a powerful witch. She is burned at the stake, but her pride and dignity remain undeterred. The idea of her spirit and influence living on through those around her, and that her spirit is still connected to the natural world and the exploration of how this is affecting us in this new digital age.

The resulting collection shows pieces in a palette of saffron, rose, celadon and obsidian. McLaughlin has created pieces with a paper-like quality of hand-drawn animation, using fabrics including faille, georgette, silk and leather.

Further influencing the collection is Bill Crisafi’s hallucinatory illustrations, reflected in the silhouette giving a nod to the film’s eponymous deadly nightshade plant.

There is certainly a cohesiveness with McLaughlin’s collections, but this SS20 with his use of fabrication, and strong color placement, precise tailoring and strong but feminine silhouette is certainly an exciting evolution of his design aesthetic.

Photo credit: Courtesy of Hogan McLaughlin

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MICHAEL KORS SS20- AMERICAN PIE

9/12/2019

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Setting off over the Brooklyn Bridge, making my way to Duggal Greenhouse, Brooklyn Navy Yard, a line of cars makes their way into the entrance. As I walk towards the venue, a black car stops, a window rolls down and there is Rachel Zoe’s husband, Rodger Berman who leans out of his window and asks the men in suits working the event, “Is the drop off area up there?” I have most definitely arrived at the Michael Kors show.

Nicole Kidman arrives at Michael Kors

Kate Hudson and Nicole Kidman front row at Michale Kors

Olivia Palermo and Stacy Fan at Michael Kors

Photographers in their droves rush to take photos of the celebrities as they enter, amongst them Nicole Kidman and Kate Hudson. Kors, one of the most well-liked designers in the industry without doubt attracts a strong crowd, all ready to support him. The black roped area leads to the entrance, a screen of painted blue sky is setup adjacent to the entrance serving as the step and repeat and right next to it is the East River, with the water sparkling from the reflection of the sun on this gorgeous and sunny day. It is appropriately bright with clear skies ahead.

Stacy Fan at Michael Kors

The venue was well thought-out, stepping outside of Manhattan where the majority of the shows have been taking place the past week, Kors stands out before the show has even started.

Kors is most certainly aware of the discourse we find ourselves in and his recent collections have sought to find some sense of positivity, a reflection he lives by himself. More than a tag line it’s a fundamental principle he seems to live by.

Stepping inside, we wait for the show to begin, and begin with a bang it does. We open to the Young People’s Chorus of New York City, singing American Pie.

“American Pie”, the inspiration behind Kors’ collection. And so his collection begins, a beautiful array of stunning tailoring, sportwear, and military inspired pieces. Turning to the romanticism of the 40’s for inspiration this season but with the Kors touch meant clean lines and crisp tailoring.

Further reinventing the 40’s feel, with Kors’ stamp meant updated hardware, and blending lux versus relaxed, a theme Kors was playing around with throughout the collection. Reinterpreting the classic pieces with a little more of a streetwear-edge, reimagined feminine pieces such as the romper, were given a toughened-up look with darted nipped waists and wide exaggerated shoulders. This was a silhouette that ran throughout the collection with both a strong shoulder or a ruched sleeves. Gingham cropped jackets made an appearance, with attention to the shoulder once again and continuing the detailed silhouette with a ruffle skirt. Nautical themes also ran through the collection with a palette of midnight blue, adorned with gold anchors.

Evening dresses gave a call back to the American Pie patriotism, but blended with the nautical color scheme as Kors showed dresses in midnight blues with star studded embroidery and a nipped in waist. The optimism continued with playsuits with crystal lemon as well as cherry embroidery.

Playing with punk versus preppy resulted in a true standout look with the gabardine cut away trench coat worn with wool pleated trousers and a cropped midnight blue cashmere pullover. Another breathtaking piece, the midnight navy trousers with gold stitching that without any special effects sparkled down the runway.

Menswear pieces included pleated trousers, argyle cashmere pullovers, white poplin shirts, a pinstripe cotton blazer with pick-stitch detailing and a statement pullover, driving Kors’ message right the way home, with the word “Hate” crossed out.

The collection was wearable luxury at its finest. Celebrating the America we are all nostalgic for, a celebration of diversity, vibrancy, and positivity and as Kors reminds us, the home of sportswear which he so proudly displays.

With SS20 collection mirroring this sense of hope, the New Young People’s Chorus of New York City sing us out of the show, this time belting out, A love Train, As Kors comes out to take his bow, huge smile and all waves as he bounds his way around the runway, waving at each section before sprinting backstage. As we step outside again, I can literally feel that renewed sense of optimism from the crowd around me, as the lyrics of “People all over the world, everybody join hands, start a love train…” Echo around our heads. And as we look out to the river and the beautiful location Kors’ has invited us to all gather at on this beautiful Wednesday morning, we see there is indeed clear blue skies ahead… welcome to Kors Spring 2020.

Photo credit: Courtesy of Michael Kors

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ANNA SUI SPRING 2020 : VICTORIANNA

9/12/2019

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“I’m calling my Spring 2020 collection Victorianna!” Anna Sui exclaimed.

Sui’s latest collections have acknowledged the tough climate we find ourselves in. In response to this, Sui’s latest offerings have channeled the positive, with her fall collection focused on optimism with a collection that she nicknamed “Poptimism” trying to make sense of the times we find ourselves in.

This SS20, the theme continued with a collection that spoke to that positivism, with her “lighthearted take on Victorian themes”. And when Sui does Victorian themes, she does it with the most whimsical of color palettes, think beautiful pastels, lemon curd, powdered blues, mint pistachio and the dreamiest of lilacs and dusty rose.

The story behind the collection, inspired by the orphaned girl Pollyanna, a Halley Mills film (1960), who believed that life's most difficult challenges can be overcome by positivity and pragmatism.

Sui’s final influence, Lila de Nobili, the mid-20th-century artist, illustrator and costume designer whose collaborations with interior decorator, Renzo Mongiardiono served as her inspiration, in particular Lee Radziwill’s dinning room with a collage of Sicilian scarves pasted to the walls that were then traced and embellished by the hand of De Nobili’s with his Victorian roses. The influence was reflected in her botanical patchwork jacket, recreating the effect with the line of the pattern which Sui traced on frosted seed beads and further embellished with intricate embroidered flowers.

Sui’s collection was as varied as it was stunning. SS20 has focused on pieces that played around with texture, and a variety of silhouettes, vests, marabou boa trimmed robes, chambray shirts, vintage inspired swimwear, calling back to the Victorian influence with a chambray lace Victorian jacket and other textures such as jacquard dresses.

Kaftans and dresses and silk trousers reminiscent of the pajama trend but Sui’s interpretation meant the designer created the looks with a more dreamlike quality, a rose embroidered sequin pants with feather trim. Long tunic dresses, utility jackets, broderie mini dresses and a plethora of fabrics in the mix, with knitwear, tweed and gingham. Kaftans and ponchos that have never looked so desirable as Sui created her oversized floral versions with lace paired over a zig-zag knit dress.

Light and airy dresses, playing with layering as she paired them with trousers or vests, sometimes with a clashing floral print, which also gave way to a more playful collection. SS20 Sui uses a whimsical palette of beautiful pastels sprinkled with flourescent details to give a little edge to the softer more romanticized pieces that Sui is so synonymous with.

Sui isn’t one to follow trends, but this collection, with its ethereal dresses, were given a little edge with pops of neon, paired with a sneaker or platform kept each look fresh, romantic and timeless but equally fun, playful and current, helping to express the duality of women, romantic, confident and totally comfortable in her own skin.

A collection that was filled with escapism, optimism and allowed us into Sui’s beautiful world, what could be better than that, after all who wouldn’t want to be there?

Photo credit: Raoul Gatchalian and Thomas Lau

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CHINA DAY NYFW SS20

9/9/2019

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NYFW China Day is a platform designed to help contemporary Chinese designers enter the US market. This year China Day is bringing some of the most exciting womenswear designers to New York. Kicking off womenswear with designer, Lily followed by Xu Zhi as they debut their SS20 collections.

LILY

The Chinese womenswear brand, Lily showcased their latest collection at Spring Studios on Sept 8th. The design duo behind the brand, Chen Chuan and Lee Lun created a stunning collection of expertly precise tailored pieces with the professional woman in mind. The collection consisted of a monochromatic long sleeved shirt dress, paired over a skirt. Playing with layering again was a white long sleeved shirt dress adorned with an original print, styled over a matching print skirt.

The duo even paid homage to athleisurewear pieces with a utility trench over an A line skirt, accessorized with brogues and gym inspired bag.

Skirts came fitted, given an edge with high waisted pockets and front zipper and a daring slit that still remained workwear appropriate but helped showcase the confidence of the woman they always have in mind when designing. The top half, a long-sleeved sheer shirt in army green, kept the utility style of the collection cohesive.

Eveningwear came in the form of a long one shouldered black dress, cut on an angle and then layered with sheer fabric.

The duo expertly played with proportions, an oversized boxy blazer, with a slim fitting dress, a leather trench with matching v neck top and perfectly contrasting pastel blue skirt, keeping the cool factor ever present with white brogues.

ACCESSORIES

Further playing with proportions they accessorized with a mix of small crossbody bags, oversized briefcases and belt bags. The entire collection was a beautiful demonstration of effortlessly cool pieces, showcasing their strong, disenthralled woman.

XU ZHI

London Based designer, Xu Zhi was the second womenswear designer to showcase his collection. Inspired by the Bloom of Youth, the designer infused intricate fabrics, braided embroidery and float prints to blend Greek Mythology with Southern flair to express “poetic adolescence.”

Eric Romer films also served as an inspiration as he played with warmth but sweet sensuality with a soft fruity palette of lemon yellow, watermelon red, soft pastel greens and lush oranges.

The designer played with a mixture of fabrics, and creative textile construction with a light laid-back airy quality, now synonymous with the designer.

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THE 13TH ART OF TELEVISION COSTUME DESIGN EXHIBITION OPENING AT FIDM MUSEUM

8/18/2019

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Tuesday, August 20th, 2019 marks the opening of the 13th Art of Television and Costume Design Exhibition.

The stunning new exhibition honors the work of nominated Costume Designers, Costume Supervisors as well as Assistant Costume Designers from the 2018-2019 television season.

I was fortunate enough to attend the media preview and Emmy Nomination Certificate Presentation Party to celebrate the nominees and the opening of the exhibition yesterday, Saturday 17th August and it was nothing short of magnificent.

With Carrie Durrant (FIDM alum) and Tina Cheng (Founder of Capsul Jewelry)

Emmy Nominees in attendance were as follows:

Costume Designers:
- Michelle R. Cole, "Black-ish"
- Lou Eyrich, "Pose"
- Jennifer Rogien, “Russian Doll”
- Cynthia Summers, “A Series of Unfortunate Events”
- Marina Toybina, “The Masked Singer” (FIDM Alumna)
Assistant Costume Designers:
- Phoebe Parsons, “A Series of Unfortunate Events”
- Kelsey Chobotar, “A Series of Unfortunate Events"

Costume Supervisors:
- Devon Patterson, "Black-ish"
- Grainne O’Sullivan, “The Masked Singer”

As well as Television Academy Governors:

Terry Ann Gordon, Television Academy Costume Design & Supervision Governor
Laura Guzik, Television Academy Costume Design & Supervision Governor

Emmy Nominees Certificate Presentation

As with the previous FIDM Television Costume Exhibitions, this exhibition includes Emmy® Award-nominated programs from the 2018-2019 television season. You will be able to view the stunning work from shows such as Game of Thrones, The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel, and Black-ish, and acclaimed shows such as The Masked Singer (excitingly a Costume Design by a talented FIDM Graduate Marina Toybina), Fosse/Verdon, Sharp Objects (Costume Design by another FIDM talented Alumna Alix Friedberg) Pose, Russian Doll, and Good Omens.

As well as being able to see these costumes up close, you’ll also be able to see some costumes of other shows including The Bold Type, Crazy Ex-Girlfriend, Gotham, The Haunting of Hill House, The Man in the High Castle, Outlander, Shrill, and Veep, amongst others.

Speaking to ‘Pose’ Costume Designer Lou Eyrich, yesterday at the event (Eyrich who has worked with Ryan Murphy for over twenty years) told me of the incredible experience she had working on the show. Pulling research from actual ball culture and how movement played such a huge part in designing the costumes. If it didn’t move a certain way or have enough movement on camera the costume would be redone. Speaking about a particular fur coat (pictured above) that, 'looks really like an ordinary fur coat’ actually took hours to make in order to get the movement on it just right. “Then of course they tell you, you have to make three of them..!” Eyrich laughs.

Television has never been better and this exhibition truly allows its fans to see the creative vision that has helped shape each show and the work of the talented designers and their teams that truly breathe life into them. Bringing the era, the world in which they live and the characters personalities visually come to life on screen.

As with all FIDM exhibitions the Art of Television Costume Design exhibition is free and open to the public from Tuesday 20th August until Saturday 26th October 2019. The exhibition features eighty-five different ensembles from 23 featured titles and is not to be missed!

With thanks, as always to FIDM / FIDM Museum and Barbara Bundy (Vice President, Education for FIDM and FIDM Museum Director) for another wonderful event.

FIDM Museum is open Tuesday- Saturday 10.00am - 5pm

For more information visit FIDM Museum

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HOW TO FEEL LIKE YOURSELF AFTER HAVING A BABY

7/20/2019

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There are no two ways about it, after having a baby you change, not just physically through the process of being pregnant and after, but emotionally. Most of the changes that happen are beautiful. You’ve created a human being, a new person who you love in a way you can’t ever put into words. However most new mothers will tell you some of the changes you go through are challenging. You go from just thinking about yourself and what you need to do that day, at work, in your social life, to always putting a little tiny person before yourself. And being a mother, loving your little offspring you are so happy to do this. But there are days when your are exhausted, if you’re nursing and/or pumping it’s even harder as you feel both the pressure to provide the best for your baby by being physically at their beck and call as they are hungry around the clock and you need to constantly be providing them with their food.

Of course, it’s a privilege to be a mother and I think most parents will attest to the fact that once you become a mother or father your world takes on a whole new meaning. Things that mattered before no longer do, and things that you never thought you’d be thinking about might well keep you up at night. Did I play with my baby enough today? Should I have done more tummy time? (wait I didn’t get chance to do any today, will this effect their development..?!) We, as mothers are just so hard on ourselves.

So here is an article that is keeping it real, laying out some thing that you might well feel after having a baby, and to say it’s ok to feel those things. Lean into it, allow yourself to cry on the days you might need to because you are exhausted. To embrace the mum guilt you are feeling, because it just means you care so, so much, and then remind yourself that you are doing an amazing job.

Below is also a list of some of the things that might help in the early days to make you feel a little bit more like your old self and to remember it’s ok, in fact it's necessary to take care of yourself and your baby. After all, if you aren’t ok, your baby certainly won’t be. Taking care of yourself, is taking care of them. Mother’s truly are the heart of the family, and if you stop working, your whole family won’t function. Everyone has a different lifestyle and these won’t work for everyone but here are some tips that I’d like to offer up incase any might be of help to you, even if you don’t have any family or friends around that can help you look after your new little bundle.

RIGHT AFTER HAVING THE BABY

Straight after you’ve had your baby take the time, as much as possible to just rest. It sounds laughable when people tell you this but it is important to try to when you can. When the baby naps, don’t feel like you have to do the housework or check the things on your to-do list, take the opportunity to sleep. It’s easier said than done as just because your baby is sleeping and you’re exhausted, you might feel bad about not doing the things you feel you need to do. However you have just given birth to a human being so lay down, even if you can’t sleep, put on an episode of something that will relax you or make you smile and don’t feel guilty about it!

SHARE THE FEEDS

This might not work for everyone, depending on your partners availability, work schedule etc. and your baby’s willingness to take a bottle and still nurse but if they are happy to do both then try and share the feeds. Have your partner do the night feeds or at least one of the feeds after you’ve gone to bed, and then you can do the second feed of the night. This way you can at least get a chunk of sleep so you’re not up every couple of hours. Another option, if your partner is taking more time off, then he can he do all the night feeds, while you get up and pump once in the night, it actually enables you to get some sleep, getting up less at night and makes switching your mind off a little easier as you aren’t waiting for the cry of your baby to wake up. Then your partner can get some rest during the day whilst you look after the baby, but at least this way, you're not both exhausted.

Alternatively, you can pump during the day if you are able to produce enough milk, put the milk in the fridge and then take some naps during the day and allow your partner, friend or family member to feed the baby so you can get some sleep. Or if you are using formula have them make your baby up the bottles when they are hungry. Getting just an hour of shut eye makes all the difference and will make you feel human again.

PUMPING

Anyone who has pumped, will know how alienating the process can feel. Having to sit in a room with the door closed whilst you are half undressed for a good 30 minutes several times a day is definitely not the easiest for anyone, let alone a brand new mother. However there is some amazing news for mothers who are looking to pump and be able to feel like you can do it on the move, in a cafe, or sitting with family for dinner, or get on with things around the house whilst you do so. The answer is The Willow Pump. It really is revolutionising the pumping process. It’s handsfree, allows you to move around the house, lay on the couch (in any position) and not have to stop your day whilst you pump. The Willow pump is completely handsfree, has a unique bag that fits inside the pump and enables you to refrigerate or freeze the milk without having to transfer the milk to another container, which also makes it great for travel. It really is a game changer for women wanting to pump and have it fit into your life instead of having to stop yours in order to pump. For more information on the Willow Pump click here.

ALLOW YOURSELF A MOMENT TO SHOWER!

Say what? Reading this before kids, you will think it's the most obvious statement in the world, of course you have to shower! However after having a baby, you'll soon find out it’s so easy to feel like you can’t take a few minutes out of your day to yep, even take that shower. You might look at the clock and see it’s 4pm and you literally feel all you have done all day is feed your baby and you may not have even eaten yourself yet, let alone had a shower. However it is so important to take a moment to take that shower and grab something to eat. As a first time mother it’s really easy to be so afraid every time your baby cries. However it’s important to ensure you take some time for yourself and this includes jumping in the shower! If your baby cries when you’re in there, it’s ok! Make sure you’ve fed them before you go in, obviously they’ll be in a safe place and you’re just taking a few minutes to shower!

LEAVE THE HOUSE FEELING LIKE YOU!

It’s really easy to feel like you’ve lost a sense of yourself when you have a baby and feel frazzled before you leave the house but just like taking a shower, it’s ok to take a moment to get yourself ready before you leave the house. Put that mascara on before you go out if that makes you feel like yourself. It’s really important to remember that yes you are a mother now, but you didn’t disappear over night after having a baby and you still deserve to feel like the old you! If your baby doesn’t want to be put down before you go out and keeps crying and you need to get ready, put them in a baby carrier to free your hands up or a rocking seat that you can bring into the bathroom with you while you get ready. That way you can then do your makeup etc and still have them close to you.

WHAT TO WEAR?!

It took you ten months to grow your baby, so remember to go easy on yourself after you’ve had your baby. It’s also really important to remember you shouldn’t diet after you've given birth. You need to nourish yourself (and if nursing / pumping, need to eat a certain amount of calories to keep your milk supply up). But if none of your old clothes fit and you don’t want to wear your old pregnancy pieces, buy a new pair of jeans or trousers that fit you now, or better yet, a good pair that are elasticated (believe it or not there are some great stylish ones out there that look great and will work with your changing size) as they will still fit as you get back to your pre-baby weight.

HOME COMFORTS

You’re likely going to be spending a lot more time at home for the next few months. One way to make yourself feel a little better during this time is to buy a few new pieces that are comfortable but make you feel a little bit better when you are at home. A few pairs of soft comfortable pants, a kaftan, etc can make a huge difference. Even if it’s a nice pair of PJ’s! There are some great ones on Amazon that are both comfortable and work well for nursing as well!

GET A MASSAGE!

Take an hour or so to go and get a massage. Having some time to relax will make all the difference. If you want to go out together with your partner as a couple and both want to get a massage but don’t have a babysitter or family nearby to help you can still do it and take your baby with you! You just have to find a massage place with a casual restaurant nearby. Bring a book with you, order some food and enjoy a few hours out of the house whilst your partner gets a massage (or you first!). Then switch off, as they come back you go for one (or vice versa) and then you can join them at the end and get a glass of wine together! When your baby is just a few months old, they’re easy to take to a restaurant in a car seat and sit at a booth quite easily. This way you have a few hours out together, both get some relax time in and a little date night to end it.

DATE NIGHT

It can feel really hard when you first have a baby to find any time together with your partner. You’re adjusting to this new lifestyle and are both struggling with a lack of sleep. However make sure you take time to have a date night. Again, this is still possible to do, even if you don’t have a sitter or family. Just bring your baby out with you. It can feel scary doing this in the beginning but if you choose a place that is dimly lit you can take your baby in the car seat with you and enjoy a meal out together. It will give you some much needed downtime together. If you don’t feel comfortable going out just yet with the baby, then have a date night at home together. Order some food in and sit down and take that time to connect together.

TAKE SOME TIME FOR YOU

It’s so easy to feel guilty about taking even a moment just for you after you’ve had your baby, but you need it and you deserve it. Whether it’s a nail appointment, a quick coffee with a friend or a moment alone, or head to the gym if you’ve been given the go ahead by your doctor. Getting those exercise endorphins in will do the world of good (some gyms even offer playgroups for your kids whilst you workout). Whatever you do, be sure that you make some time for yourself and don’t feel bad about it. You’re spending so much time taking care of your family, you need a moment for yourself and you deserve it!

And most importantly be kind to yourself. It’s so easy to feel overwhelmed, guilty for things that you shouldn’t. Remember to be good to yourself, talk about how you’re feeling and remember you are doing a fantastic job.

SHOP THE PIECES!

PJS

For PJ's that are both soft, and accessible for nursing, check the ones below!

Avidlove Pajamas Set Short Sleeve Soft Sleepwear Pjs Women Button Down Nightwear with Long Pants

Ekouaer Pajamas Set Short Sleeve Sleepwear Womens Button Down Nightwear Soft Pj Lounge Set

Lusofie Nightgown Women's Long Sleeve Nightshirt Boyfriend Sleep Shirt Button-up Lapel Collar Sleepwear

WILLOW PUMP

The technology that is revolutionising the way women are pumping. Allowing you to pump on the move and discreetly!

Willow pump available here

BABY CARRIER

The perfect way to keep your baby comforted when at home and your hands free, or to go hiking and also a must have when traveling. There are plenty on the market but this one by Ergo baby is comfortable for both baby and you and incredibly sturdy making it a good choice for indoor and outdoor use.

MOBILE BABY SEATS

A mobile baby seat is great for taking your baby around the house with you, use it in the bathroom whilst you shower and get ready and around the rest of the house. Mobile seats require supervision of the baby at all times.

Baby Delight Go with Me Sway Portable Infant Rocker

4moms rockaRoo - Compact Baby Swing, Baby Rocker with Front to Back Gliding Motion, Classic Nylon Fabric - from The Makers of The mamaRoo

Fisher-Price 4-in-1 Rock 'n Glide Soother

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IT'S SUMMER AND WE'RE FEELING ALL WHITE!

6/30/2019

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Photo credit Levis UK Instagram

When it comes to recent trends, the nineties are having a major comeback. First there was tie dye, now we’re seeing the return of white. Everything from white jeans, the little white dress right through to head to toe white. Not sure you can pull the look off? Think again! There are so many ways to introduce some white into your wardrobe to get you feeling summer ready! Take a look at some of the best summer look options below!

THE WHITE EVENING DRESS!

Photo credit- Rihanna Instagram

The little black dress has long reigned supreme for a go-to evening look, however this summer is the perfect time to switch it up and invest in a little white dress. Nothing screams summer elegance more!

Jourdan Dunn

Millie Bobby Brown

Arielle Charnas

Stacy Fan with designer Yohan Kim

Alexa Chung

Elsa Hosk wearing Alberta Ferretti

Lady Kitty Spencer in Alberta Ferretti

Jourdan Dunn

Rihanna

HEAD TO TOE WHITE

Josephine Skriver wearing Alberta Ferretti

If you’re feeling brave like Eva Longoria or Bella Hadid white not go all white? Whether it’s a short and jacket set ala Arielle Charnas or a cropped white knit and skirt set like Jourdan Dunn nothing looks fresher for the summer. Perhaps just best to avoid the red wine!

Photo credit - Sincerely Jules

Jourdan Dunn

Sincerely Jules Instagram

Bella Hadid

Eva Longoria in Alberta Ferretti

Kendall Jenner walking in Alexander Wang

Gigi Hadid wearing Louis Vuitton

Kendall Jenner

THE WHITE JACKET

Levis UK Instagram

If you're not feeling brave enough to go head to to white, but want to add some white to your wardrobe, why not try a blazer or trench? Perfect to throw on with anything from black trousers to a little dress.

Stacy Fan wearing Chanel with actress Jessica Alba

Photo credit: Levis UK Instagram

Stacy Fan wearing Rachel Zoe blazer (with the latest screenwriting book: Crazy Screenwriting Secrets by Weiko Lin)

Stacy Fan wearing trench by Three Floor

THE WHITE SUMMER DRESS

Photo Credit: Stacy Fan (Eurasian Vogue Instagram)

Want to introduce the white dress to your summer attire in a more casual way? Then try a white summer day dress. From short and playful to long and flowy, the white dress will keep you cool in the sun and have you looking the epitome of beachside elegance.

Alexa Chung

Sincerely Jules

Stacy Fan - Photo credit Eurasian Vogue Instagram

Sincerely Jules

Stacy Fan - Photo credit Eurasian Vogue Instagram

Sincerely Jules

WHITE DEMIN

Bella Hadid

If you’re more of a denim girl then why not try giving your faded boyfriend jeans a much needed rest and opt for a pair of white skinny jeans, or a white denim dress or skirt as the sun heats up?!

Sincerely Jules

Stacy Fan photo credit- Eurasian Vogue Instagram

Photo credit - Sincerely Jules

Stacy Fan - Photo credit Eurasian Vogue Instagram

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THE RETURN OF TIE DYE

5/25/2019

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Photo Credit: R13 Instagram

There are a few things that I thought we would never see a return of and tie dye was one of them! However it’s back and in a big way! Beyonce kicked off the trend again last year when she wore a tie dye mini dress during her vacation in Italy with Jay-Z and this year we’ve seen it on a number of celebrities including Gigi Hadid during Coachella.

It was all over the Spring runway, with everyone from Stella McCartney, Prada and R13 inspired by the reinvented print. It’s been given a little make over since it’s inception in the 60s and then its first revival in the 90s.

We’ve got R12 using it on blazers, as seen on Kai Gerber on the runway, Ralph Lauren using it on sweaters whilst Prada and Proenza Schouler gave it a feminine makeover. Prada used it on A-line skirts and delicate bags whilst Proenza Schouler used it on denim, oversized shirts and high neck fitted dresses. Influencers took to the street with their own take on it, with Arielle Charnas loving the trend on everything from sweaters, blazers to oversized shirts.

The look is best when paired with neutrals. Think a tie dye blazer with light wash fitted denim, or for a casual weekend look, pair a sweater with cropped denim and slides for a fun brunch look!