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"fASHION IS A LANGUAGE OF ITS OWN... LET'S TALK" EURASIAN VOGUE


COVID-19 : WHAT DOES IT MEAN FOR THE FUTURE OF THE FASHION INDUSTRY?

4/15/2020

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Anna Wintour wearing a protective face mask during the pandemic.
​Photo credit: Vogue Instagram 

​Is this a frivolous question, do people even care? It might, at face value seem like a superficial question to ask given all that is going on in our world at the moment. However it’s also important to note that we are living through a historical moment and fashion during times of crisis has always played a significant part.

Some might argue this pandemic may change fashion more than any other event we’ve seen in history so far, both structurally and creatively; Why? Because when this is all over, unlike a war, we won’t, for some time at least, be able to comfortably congregate in the way we did before, giving way to questions over how we will move forward with collections? Will we finally be choosing sustainability over fast fashion or will It have the opposite effect in the face of this economic crisis? And what will fashion shows look like going forward?


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FIDM: Photo credit: FIDM Instagram 


HISTORICAL EVENTS AND FASHION 


When we look back during times of war, we can in part see the nations response through their clothing. Fashion is certainly indicative of how people are feeling during that period and a reflection of the times. Uniforms created in order to allow men to fight and women to work. Fashion magazines showing women how to wear pieces in their husband’s wardrobe to enable them to spend their clothing allowance on other, more pressing items needed, as well as making their wardrobe more practical for their current situation. 

Now we are living through a time where Forbes magazines and fashion magazines are showing us how to make masks, to protect ourselves and others as much as possible from the Coronavirus as masks are sold out everywhere, even medical staff can’t get their hands on enough personal protective equipment (PPE). 


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Photo: Courtesy of Collina Strada


​A CRISIS : THE FASHION INDUSTRIES RESPONsE


In response, some fashion brands are using their factories to manufacture PPE. Parent company of Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton, Guerlain and Givenchy, LVMH, began manufactoring hand sanitizers, providing it to French health authorities for free. Meanwhile Louis Vuitton repurposed some of the Mason's ateliers across France to help produce hundreds of thousands of non-surgical face masks. In partnership with the Mode Grande Ouest textile network, this initiative was set up to fight the pandemic, donating the PPE to frontline healthcare workers. 

FIDM (Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising based in Los Angeles) have been admirable in their efforts to help.  Having been inspired by the communities’ efforts, they came together with The Major of Los Angeles, Eric Garcetti, to donate fabric to L.A. to aid in making protective gear for Angelenos during the pandemic.

Garcetti has partnered with Kaiser Permanente to develop the design specifications for non-medical masks. Alligning with these specifications, FIDM has donated over 600 yards of cotton woven and cotton knit to make the face masks.


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Photo credit: FIDM Instagram 

3D printing is also being used to create ear guards for masks in order to protect hospital workers faces so the masks don’t dig in quite as much. Even some of the more ‘woke’ bloggers are churning out the ear guards on 3D printers to help keep up with the demand. 
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Photo credit: LVMH Instagram


​OUR DAILY LIVES AFFECTED


For those of us lucky enough to keep our jobs and work from home, how have we been affected?  Even in a very basic way it’s affecting us on a daily basis. Whether or not you are in the fashion industry it’s changed all of our daily wardrobes, seeing us pulling out pieces that are work from home appropriate, comfortable pieces, yet items that give some nod to professionalism. This time has shown us that despite being at home all day, we need to get dressed, in order to function as we normally would, to feel productive, to give ourselves a sense of self-worth and yes, to even cheer ourselves up.

It’s also important for those Zoom and other video meetings to show both our colleagues and bosses that we are still in fact functioning human beings. It’s shown us how important it is to have a routine. To get up, shower, do our makeup and pick out our clothes. Catt Sadler has even created “Formal Fridays” on her Instagram, having followers dress up in their finest every Friday. For every tagged photo, (#formalfridays) she is donating to an organization helping to fight the pandemic.
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Photo credit: Catt Sadler Instagram 

​Tops and jewelery have suddenly become the hero items both online and in our closets. But what of the bigger picture? As we say goodbye to the first month (in the U.S at least) of quarantine, fashion magazines are having to find a new way to speak about fashion. Unable to shoot new collections for editorials, how do we communicate through fashion without being able to showcase it in the traditional way?

The fashion industry doesn’t only move with the times, it embraces it and arguably it helps with change. In recent years more than ever before, fashion isn’t just about clothes, it’s about conveying a message. So what will happen to the fashion industry as we see ourselves evolve through this pandemic and what about the fashion shows themselves?
 
 
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Chiara Ferragni - wearing a Christian Dior, "We Should All be Feminists" T-shirt


FASHION SHOWS: THE FUTURE


As a fashion editor, I’ve been going to fashion shows for several years now. For me and many others, it’s a chance to see the clothes up close, to report on the show and share with readers what’s likely to be trending that season. However it’s more than that. I find fashion shows an emotional experience. You might scoff at that, but it’s a moment where designers are connecting with us. It’s the show as a whole, the clothes of course, but the message conveyed through the collection. It’s a story, a piece of theatre condensed into a few minutes. It’s months, maybe even years of hard work, it’s their message to us and to the world. A good show gives me goosebumps, a really great show can make me tear up. To see the talent and beauty that designers are bringing to us is a privilege and in my opinion important. It’s a form of art and even in the darkest of times, perhaps even more so, art is important. We turn to it, we need it. But what is the future of fashion shows after the pandemic and what will fashion look like?
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Stacy Fan headed into a show during NYFW (full look by Janna L- designer and founder of 5ifth Fashion Week store.

​It’s unlikely that for the forseeable future we will be congregating in the way we once did at a show, let alone a whole fashion month, jumping between NY, London and Europe. But how will they adapt? Fashion shows have already changed significantly in the last few years. But let’s go back to the beginning. 
 
Fashion shows first began back in the 1860s, when English fashion designer, Charles Frederick Worth, used live models to show his clothes in Paris in place of traditional mannequins. It was he who was a pioneer in setting trends of what women would be wearing. Instead of women choosing for themselves, giving ideas or instructions of what they wanted their tailor to create for them, a new era of trend dressing had begun. 
 
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Revisite le Calle, House of Worth, Paris

But what can we expect for the future of shows? In recent years they have gone on to become spectacles, from Karl Largefeld turning The Great Wall into a runway for Fendi, to recreating an airport terminal and taking his show to a beach recreated indoors for Chanel. And Marc Jacobs, another designer notorious for his spectacular shows, had his models come down on four escalators on to a yellow and white checked flooring for Louis Vuitton. 
 
When we look back at this time, I wonder what changes we’ll have seen as a result of this pandemic. Will we see a new kind of show, with more designers simply choosing to show online perhaps? And from this will there be an emergence of a new way of shopping? The, ‘See now buy now’ concept hasn’t taken off, at least in the mainstream, as we still have a huge lag time (6 months, a lifetime in fashion) for the most part between a show and customers being able to purchase the piece. 
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Louis Vuitton SS13

As for the shows for FW20, Giorgio Armani was forced to do his show in a completely empty theatre in Italy as models walked the runway with no audience for his Women’s FW20-21 fashion show as a, “Preventative measure decided by Mr Armani to support national efforts in safeguarding public health.” Instead the show was streamed online at Armani.com with Mr. Armani taking his bow at the end of the show to his online viewers. 

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Giorgio Armani showcasing his FW20-21collection in an empty theatre 
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Giorgio Armani stands to thank his online audience. 
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Stacy Fan interviewing new designers. Photo credit : Eurasian Vogue Instagram


TIME FOR CHANGE?


In more recent seasons I’ve seen designers taking a departure from traditional shows, choosing presentations over full shows, picking unusual locations around the city. So what will be next? I don’t foresee us taking everything online, but the fashion industry has been edging its way to a different way of doing things for a while. Is this the push needed in order to really mix it up and take it into a new day?

The industry like every other is being hit hard. Sadly new designers will be feeling the sting the most, with us potentially heartbreakingly losing a whole generation of new designers who may not make it out of this pandemic with their businesses still intact. From manufacturing and production stopping, to collections and orders on hold. It’s an unprecedented time for the 2 trillion-dollar industry. An industry that is responsible for creating around 300 million jobs globally.

However, most importantly we also have to remember that it is an industry that is one of the biggest culprits of pollution and we need to take responsibility for that. I have hope that even if sustainability takes a step back during this time of crisis, I believe later it will become a priority, it simply has to. If this pandemic has shown us anything, it’s the reality that if we don’t have our health and a world we can comfortably live in, then what do we have, really? 

THE FUTURE: SUSTAINABILITY 


​One conclusion I think we can all come to is that we need to be better, to do better. Could this pandemic be the final push that we need to move towards a more sustainable future? Factories currently aren't able to manufacture at the same quantity as before. As a result, consumers are beginning to realise that making clothes, even those before considered fast fashion, does in fact require a large expenditure of labor and that it isn't without cost, both monetarily, but the largest cost is at the expense of our planet. We have been edging our way very slowly to becoming more sustainable and more aware, but this pandemic may be the biggest shake up needed to really challenge peoples previous notions on the production of clothing. 

We’ve undeniably taken far too much for granted for so long. Hopefully from this we shall all become a little more aware and a little more grateful. Whilst we’ve all been in quarantine, the planet has had a chance to heal. Recent recordings conducted by NASA (Earth Observatory) show carbon dioxide emissions have decreased and air pollution has lessened. Is this the wake up call we needed to realise where we can cut back even once the lockdown has lifted? Will it change both our outlook and buying habits, which will in turn impact the fashion industry as we demand sustainability over fast fashion? Who knows what the future holds, but as far as the fashion industry goes, one thing is for sure, it will, as it has always done in times past, evolve.
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Christian Dior - A brighter outlook post war. 



​BRIGHTER DAYS AHEAd


During times of pain, beauty emerges and with that comes hope. Let’s not forget that out of the war came Christian Dior. Quickly garnering himself the reputation as one the most prominent courtiers of the twentieth century. His first collection, which he showed in Paris during a fashion show in 1947 marked a new era.

Dior was the first designer to allow photographers in to capture the show. It was another step in the evolution of the runway show, marking how we publicize shows to this day and a massive shift creatively from the severe clothes and uniforms worn during that time. His collection was symbolic of a new, brighter day. As a result, the editor during that time for Harper’s Bazaar, Camel Snow, called the collection, “The New Look” as Dior embraced the most feminine silhouette, full bodied skirts and a cinched in waist. A silhouette that has become synonymous with the brand even today. It was more than a collection; it was a new way of life. A re-birth. What will emerge from this pandemic remains to be seen, but as history has proved, we will continue, we will move forward and we will emerge stronger than before.
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Christian Dior, "The New Look"  
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Christian Dior Couture SS11

Here’s how to help those affected by the coronavirus pandemic via CNBC​ 

In the United States, Lunchboxes for Love set up by DK's Donuts Founder, Mayly Tao is providing lunches for healthcare workers. Click to visit their instagram for more information and ways to donate. 
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WHEN OUR WORLD IS TURNED UPSIDE DOWN...

4/10/2020

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Q AND A WITH PSYCHOLOGIST ANN FAN

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Stacy Fan with mum and psychologist Ann Fan 
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Whenever my world is turned upside down, one voice that can comfort me is my mum. Despite the fact that she lives in England and I’m in America, she’s just one call away and she’s great at calming me down. It just so happens that my mum, Ann Fan, is also a practicing psychologist for over twenty years, so in addition to being there as my mum, she can also help me in practical ways when it comes to managing stress. Recently, mine and everyone else’s life the world over changed. This time, I called my mum, not only to talk about the pandemic we are going through, but to also ask her to work with me on an article that would hopefully help anyone who was feeling anxious, depressed, confused or stressed during this time. 
 
Ann  Fan is a cognitive behavioural therapist with the following qualifications: LL.B (Hons); (B.A. (Hons) (in psychology);  MSc (health psychology); PDip (in cognitive behavioural therapy); accredited cognitive behavioural therapist with the BABCP (British Association for Behavioural and Cognitive Psychotherapies).  Here I ask her what we can do to take care of ourselves, handle the anxiety we might be experiencing and how to get used to our ‘new normal’. 

​But before we begin, let’s start at the beginning. A few weeks ago, the world as we know it changed. We’d heard about the Coronavirus back in December 2019 when we saw the news and were told that China, more specifically Wuhan, had been hit with the virus. China responded and were going into lockdown. Residents were only allowed out to do grocery shopping, having their temperatures checked as they came in and out of the store. They had to give their phone number in case someone later became infected, so those recording it could track everyone who had been in contact with that person. It sounded awful, some of us had friends and family who were being affected, but it felt far away. We sympathized but we didn’t know. 
 
Fast forward a few months. Europe is hugely hit with the virus, America begins shutting down flights, Europe included, U.K and Ireland were exempt. It continues to get worse, U.K and Ireland are now included in the ban and Italy is drowning in the number of cases. America (we don’t know it yet) won’t be far behind. As I write this, the U.S has overtaken both China and Italy with the number of people infected with the virus. I’m now writing this from my home in Los Angeles, as we too are under order for ‘Shelter In’. The 16th of March was the day all restaurants stopped dine-in; gyms, theatres and shopping malls closed. Today, all schools except a few with children of parents working on the frontline, (the true heroes today, doctors, nurses, hospital cleaners, supermarket staff, anyone working every day, risking their own health to enable us to live, to eat, to survive) are closed.  
 

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Friday April 3rd at rush hour on Hollywood Blvd 

So how are we all handling it? It’s been a rollercoaster of emotions. Many people all over the world have lost their jobs, small businesses are going under and those who have been able to keep their jobs are likely now doing work from home (WFH), which may have before sounded like a dream, but can in actuality be desperately lonely, especially in these days of social distancing and Shelter In place. It’s particularly hard for those living on their own. 
 
For those with kids, it adds a huge challenge, trying to keep young children amused at home, toddlers with boundless amounts of energy, to older kids whose parents are now having to home school their children. That’s right, parents overnight have had to become manager of their own work headquarters and head teacher of their own schools. All the while trying to explain to their children what on earth is going on whilst still trying to wrap their heads around it themselves. 
 
We normally have stay at home parents, we have working parents, and we have teachers, for a reason. It’s not humanly possible for one or even two parents to achieve all of the above. And with no definitive date of end in sight, anxiety and emotions are going into overdrive. So how are we meant to deal with all of this? 
 
It’s going to be a rough time for all of us as we adjust to our new situation. However there are some coping mechanisms we can undertake to manage expectations, and help deal with our own anxiety and mental health during this time. 
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Stacy Fan: So many people are experiencing a lot of confusion, loneliness, anxiety and depression during this unprecedented time. Can you help us understand some of the feelings that we might be going through?
 
Ann Fan: Normally we are very fortunate to have the freedom to travel where we want, whether that’s at home or abroad; we’re able to leave our homes at any time of the day or night for pretty much anything we want to do; and weekends are usually about socializing, going to parties and restaurants to meet with friends and loved-ones. Suddenly that has all been taken away;  our lifestyles have had to change almost overnight. It’s a shock and has required a massive adaption. In addition, many people’s long-term plans of what they were going to do or achieve this year have had to be cancelled or re-arranged. Examples are weddings, or a long-planned and looked forward to holiday, or celebrating a milestone birthday or anniversary with friends and family. When these are unable to go ahead this can leave feelings of extreme disappointment, which at worst can lead to feelings of depression. A knock on from this are the potential financial implications, and the very real possibility that people may not be able to keep their jobs because businesses are being affected so badly, leading to anxiety and depression.      
 
SF: What are some of the things we can do each day to bring ourselves a sense of normality and to keep ourselves motivated during this time?
 
AF: Having a routine is important. If you’re working from home this is probably easier because you know what you’re required to do during the day. However, if you’re at home with no work it can lead to a sense of the day being pointless and each day like ground hog day. The first thing that’s important is to get dressed! Don’t sit around in your pyjamas, but put on some comfortable day clothes. Try to keep up your normal self-care routine, such as showering and washing your hair, putting make-up on. These are all important for our sense of self-worth. Have a list of what you want to achieve that day – that closet you’ve been meaning for months to tidy, now’s your opportunity! If you’re able to go out for a walk, do so. Perhaps you can have a regular time-slot where you FaceTime with family. I have heard where people are taking part in on-line quizzes and games and arranging coffee mornings or cocktail evenings shared over the net. If you’re a couple who normally have a regular “date night”, continue to have these, such as cooking a special meal, having some wine and candlelight. Or having a regular movie night. If as a couple you don’t usually do these things, now might be a good time to introduce them! If your finances allow, an occasional on-line purchase of a new item of clothing or jewelery can lift the spirits. And don’t watch too much of the news about what’s going on – stay informed but don’t become over-saturated and over-whelmed by it.
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Try to keep up your normal self-care routine, such as showering and washing your hair,  putting make-up on. These are all important for our sense of self-worth.
SF: What advice do you have for anyone experiencing anxiety during this time? Thinking about what is going on around us universally can be all consuming, how can we try and manage it?
 
AF: It’s important to remember that anxiety is a normal part of life – most of us experience it at some level for numerous reasons. Anxiety can cause a number of physical reactions such as increased heart rate, shortness of breath, sweating and trembling. This in turn can lead to the individual becoming even more anxious, perhaps even having a panic attack, when people often think they’re having a heart attack. If you’re experiencing physical symptoms, try and control your breathing so you’re not over-breathing, which leads to feeling faint. You can also try “Progressive muscle relaxation”. If your thoughts are really anxious thoughts, a basic cognitive behavioural therapy (CBT) technique is to do some “thought challenging”. This involves identifying what your triggers are for the anxious (or unhelpful) thoughts, what the specific thought is and then find a more balanced, (helpful) thought to counteract it. In the current situation a typical thought might be “I’m going to catch the virus, get sick, and have to go to hospital”. A more helpful, balanced thought might be “I’m at home, I’m doing everything I have been asked in order to keep safe, I’m keeping myself and my family healthy”.

SF: For those who already suffer from OCD (obsessive compulsive disorder), this could be an unbearably challenging time. What tips can you give those struggling to help control it and keep it in check?
 
AF: This is a particularly challenging time for people who have OCD particularly if it’s regarding germs and contamination fears. Similarly for people with health anxiety, who may be experiencing heightened worry about their health because of the fear of catching the virus. As OCD and health anxiety are both an anxiety disorder,  some simple self- help procedures for mild OCD and health anxiety would again be using some of the thought challenging techniques detailed above. Some examples of questions you can ask yourself to help allay your anxiety are: “Is there any evidence for this thought?; is there any evidence against it?; what would I say to a friend who had this thought?; what would a friend say to me about it?; how can I test this thought to show that it’s false”. There are a number of good cognitive behavioural books that can help with both OCD and health anxiety. People who have OCD or health anxiety which is so severe that it affects their normal quality of life should seek the help of a therapist.
 
SF: For those who are struggling with social distancing and battling loneliness and / or depression, what can they do to help themselves during this time?
 
AF: We’re very fortunate to have access to technology which enables us to stay in touch with each other. Use this to its full advantage. Enlist a good friend to be your “buddy” at this time so that you can support each other by phoning or using other methods to tell each other how you’re feeling that day. It’s important to remember when you’re having a bad day, that tomorrow is another day when things may look and feel brighter. Reconnect with people you may have lost touch with; or reach out to your neighbour to see if you can help out with practical things, such as shopping, or just simply to check in on how they are. Altruism is great for giving a sense of purpose and well-being.     


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Perhaps you can have a regular time-slot where you FaceTime with family. I have heard where people are taking part in on-line quizzes and games and arranging coffee mornings or cocktail evenings shared over the net.
SF: Do you have any advice to help us not become overwhelmed with the situation and worrying about the future as we overcome this pandemic? 
 
AF: None of us ever know what the future holds, even in normal times. Worrying about the future never solves anything, however planning for the future can be helpful. Have you had to cancel plans? - then think of how or when you might be able to put these plans in place again. Plan what activities you’re going to do when you’re allowed social interaction again so you’ve got something to look forward to. Communication is always helpful, talk about your feelings with your partner, friend, mother, father. Everyone is in this together so we can support each other to get through it. 
 
SF: Are there any relaxation exercise we can do to help anxiety during this time?
 
AF: Many people find Mindfulness to be very helpful. There’s a lot of information on websites about it. There’s a particular exercise called “Leaves on a Stream” (which you can find on-line) which helps relax the mind and dissipates worry. Yoga is also good for physical and mental relaxation. There are lots of apps that can help. There’s one called “Calm” which a lot of people find helpful for relaxation.  
 
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The Calm App can be a helpful resource. 
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SF: For couples who are perhaps only used to seeing each other in the morning and for a few hours at night, switching to seeing them almost 24/7 can be an adjustment, even if the relationship or marriage is good! Do you have any tips for couples to help them keep boundaries?
 
AF: Having “me time” (time to yourself) is always important, but never more so when you might be staying at home with the same people for an unprecedented amount of time. If you’re able to, have time alone in a separate room. You could listen to music, read, make a phone call to a friend. If the government rules are that you’re allowed out for exercise, perhaps take walks separately. If you and your partner have children, divide the day up so that each of you have time away from looking after the children so you can pursue a solitary pursuit or interest, such as the ones listed above, so that you will feel refreshed to go back and able to either join in the fun as a family or take over the care of children so your partner can have their alone time.   

SF: I think one of the most difficult things for people is that we haven’t been given an end date for our current situation. What are some of the things we can do daily to help with anxiety and that lack of knowing when this might end?
 
AF: With any form of anxiety or depression it is about taking it one day at a time. What you need to remind yourself is that you are being asked to stay at home to keep yourselves and others safe from this terrible disease. If you are able to look on this enforced period at home as an opportunity rather than a problem it will help. For example, have you always wanted to learn a foreign language, learn about a particular subject, learn a new skill, read that stack of books you’ve been meaning to get through? Now’s your opportunity! We’re very fortunate that we have the technology which gives us ways of keeping in touch and learning on-line.   
 
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 If you’re able to, have time alone in a separate room. You could listen to music, read, make a phone call to a friend.
SF: Do you have any tips to help those who are struggling to sleep?
 
AF: There are a number of things that can help. 1. If you are having difficulty sleeping it’s often because when we go to bed and it’s quiet our mind starts thinking about all the things that have happened during the day, what we’ve got to do the next day, what bills we have to pay, even what we’re going to cook the next day! What I recommend to my patients who find they worry when they get to bed is to set aside some “worry time” during the day. This involves sitting calmly and listing the things that are troubling them or occupying their mind. Then write possible solutions and how they are going to be achieved. Don’t do this too close to bed-time or it may still be on your mind. 2. One thing that has been proven to keep the mind active when we go to bed is if we’ve had “screen time” just before we settle down. This activates the mind and brain, so put your phone/laptop etc. away at least half an hour before going to bed. And make sure that you don’t check your phone during the night. 3. One other tip is to do something that you find particularly relaxing such as meditation, listening to calming music or having a relaxing bath. 4. Something that is also well known to keep people awake is caffeine so avoid stimulants before bed. Some people find that chamomile tea is relaxing, or the smell of lavender on the pillow. 
 
SF: What are some of the services (in the UK) available for those who might be struggling at the moment?
 
AF: One of the good things to come out of this current situation is how people have stepped up to help each other. The community spirit in most areas has been remarkable. For example, the UK government appealed for 250,000 volunteers to come forward to help the NHS (National Health Service). That target was met within 24 hours and a total of 750,000 have now volunteered to help with such things as delivering medicines and driving people to appointments. Psychological services, such as the one I work in and which is part of the NHS, have been asked to adjust the way we are working, so we are doing shift work in order to answer help-lines and carry out assessments for people who phone-in feeling anxious and/or depressed. Business which have had to temporarily close have diversified and are helping with such things as preparing and delivering food for free.  In the community individuals have also got together to form groups to collect and deliver food and essentials to the elderly or vulnerable. For those struggling with mental health there are the usual phone services, such as The Samaritans. The list is endless and I feel very proud of how we are coping with this. My sincerest wish is that when we are allowed to get back to our normal way of life, that ‘normal’ will be different – I hope that we are all able to appreciate what we have and each other more. Stay safe everyone! 
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    STACY FAN 



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