ANNA SUI RTW SPRING 2024

It's been a strange NYFW. Despite being arguably a fairly volatile time, both politically as well as environmentally, it's quite surprising the lack of subliminal messages that designers have shown in their collections. Particularly given that historically, many designers have taken the opportunity in seasons past to show their own thoughts on pressing matters, or even try and evoke some sort of change, the messages thus far have been somewhat quiet. 

However Anna Sui's collection took a different approach. Despite the fact that the designer isn't one to usually show layered political messages as the undertone of her shows, and by her own admission doesn't consider herself an activist, this collection, Sui felt compelled.

“One of the most gorgeous sights I’ve ever seen is the underwater coral reefs and sea-life when I visited Australia’s Gold Coast. The reality of this and all the coral reefs around the world disappearing has shocked me into realizing the fragility of everything.” 

Sui continues “In 1903 and 1907, George Melies filmed The Kingdom of the Fairies and Under the Sea. My vision of underwater has always been this fantasy world of exotic fish, coral, and mermaids. Who hasn’t dreamt of going 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea or scuba diving like James Bond in the Caribbean, The Incredible Mr. Limpet, the undersea explorer Jacques Cousteau, and more recently, My Octopus Teacher.II”

Sui’s fabrics and prints throughout the collection are a celebration of the sea. Iridescent, fluttery, shimmery, and swirls of colors and tones emulate the dazzling effects of Mother of Pearl and shells. The jacquards are metallic or iridescent with prints on top. 

Some of the more unusual pieces, a botanical warp print denim and an opalescent knit. Gingham is beautifully paired with embroidered organza with iridescent sequins. “I love the oversized fish sweaters in pastels layered over giant gingham and glitter print jersey. Giant eyelet in pink and cantaloupe. Mini arcadia blossom printed floral in a princess dress and a boudoir bed jacket. Riviera crochet bathing suits, metallic palm leaf jacquard, and terry cabana jacket and skort are perfect for an island paradise. Kaftans and princess dresses shimmer and shine when mixed with ocean color tie-dye denim, Pisces jacquard and waterfall sequins.”

The Accessories served to create a further cohesion of the collection with pieces including  iridescent crochet hats and bags, airy fluttery kerchiefs, over-sized shoulder bags in sequins as well as print and velvet, and mini bags also in gingham, terry, and Mother of Pearl. The John Fluevog sandals are tie-dye leather and the mules in celestial sequins or metallic leather with a conch shell heel. 

The jewelry by Erickson Beamon featured shells intricately decorated with iridescent beads and bubbles. Butterfly and rhinestone trim cat-eyeglasses are by Anna Sui Eyewear.

The collection was romantic aethereal and fluid, whilst expressing Sui’s love for the underwater world, and love letter to a world that could be lost. If you would like to learn more visit missionblue.com
 

Credits  
 
Models: 
Heather Diamond Strongarm
Diane Chiu
Sara Grace Wallerstedt
Avanti Nagrath
Dahan Phuong Oanh
Aubrey Hill
Danielle Zinaich
America Gonzalez
Lulu Wood
Yoon Young Bae
Evie Harris
Lyra Westecott
Heather Marks
Jordan Daniels
Enya Davis
Cristina Piccone
Amelia Gray

Photographer: 
Raoul Gatchalian
Jonas Gustavson
Gerardo Somoza (@gerardosomozaphotography)

Makeup: 
Pat McGrath Labs (@patmcgrathlabs_contact)

Hair: 
GARREN for R+Co BLEU (@randcobleu)