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Badgley Mischka SS20

9/18/2019

Walking into Spring Studios Gallery, where Mark Badgley and James Mischka had set the stage for their SS20 collection, I was surrounded by stunning dresses, and that was before the runway show had started. Strong fans of the design duo were wearing their pieces with pride as they floated their way to the seats. Despite the warmth of the sun outside, I had decided to wear their sequin wool trench and wasn’t veering from my plans despite the beaming sun outside.

A white archway served as the entrance of the runway, and beautiful pale pink lighting set the scene for the show. Whispers of “hush” were uttered, and two men wearing black pulled the covering of the runway off to reveal a sparkling white floor.

Stacy Fan at Badgley Mischka

The designers are now official bicoastal, spreading their time between New York and Los Angeles. I had sat down a few months prior to the show with the designers at a luncheon hosted by Barbara Bundy, (VP of Education at FIDM and director of the FIDM museum) and the designers shared their love for the West coast.

Stacy Fan with Mark Badgley and James Mischka

Barbara Bundy with Mark Badgley and James Mischka

We can instantly see the love of that sunny California lifestyle as the show begins as it seems to have informed their SS20 collection. The first look, a beautifully feminine suit in a gorgeous mint green that popped as it was adorned with hibiscus flowers that look like they were being gently swept away in a cool summer breeze, styled perfectly with a matching shoe and orange and mint green earrings.

The print ran through several pieces in the collection in the form of a delicate summer dress with sequins, a lux gown with exaggerated sleeves and another breathtaking dress that was versatile enough to make an ideal evening gown or a fabulous beach cover up on a boat sailing over the Malibu waters. The print appeared to be influenced by the Caribbean however that California sun seems to have been a big influence in both style and color palette as that vacation vibe meets high glamour made the perfect combination.

Bikinis and swimsuits were just as spectacular, paired with long flowing coverups that showed the versatility of the pieces and reiterating that vacation feel as we imagine ourselves going seamlessly from poolside to bar.

Despite the emphasis on easy breezy holiday feels, it wouldn’t be a Badgley Mischka show without the highly constructed evening gowns that the designers are so synonymous with, an impeccable sequin gown that once again explored that exaggerated sleeve. This time a silhouette reminiscent of the 30’s and 40’s whilst another with a ruffled tiered dress amped up the drama. A white gown with collar detailing that highlighted the feminine collar bone, with its small train and hip embellishment looked like a piece suitable for royalty.

The collection then moved into more modern pieces, a V neck gown that would be ideal for a modern-day bride or a nominated actress at the Oscars. A pale pastel sleeveless striped dress with embellished collar neck and a low-cut white long-sleeved dress, with flower embellishments. The front row were literally gasping as each piece made its way down the runway.

The collection was the most beautiful blend of high glamour meets chic vacation wardrobe as the designers made each piece look effortless and floaty in movement on even the more structured silhouettes. What appeared at first to be West coasts gain with the designers recent move, certainly seems to be something we’re all benefiting from as this SS20 collection has shown. This bi-coastal lifestyle is clearly working for the duo!

Photos courtesy of Badgley Mischka

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Hogan McLaughlin : SS20 SOLANACEAE

9/14/2019

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Since Hogan McLaughlin’s first Spring 2012 collection, Kaidan, we can see where the designer has come from, and how he has evolved. Despite having no formal design training, McLaughlin’s collections all bring with them true precision with his design, and with it a sense of ferocity, darkness and truth. Influenced by his dance background, the designer knows movement and with each collection has consistently created a beautiful juxtaposition of both sculptured punctilious rigidity as well as a smoothness and elegance of movement and this collection is no exception.

This sense of truth and darkness continues with McLaughlin’s SS20 collection which is entitled, “Solanaceae” taking inspiration from the 1973 psychedelic animated feature, Belladonna of Sadness.Telling the story of an abused medieval woman who takes revenge on her abusers by becoming a powerful witch. She is burned at the stake, but her pride and dignity remain undeterred. The idea of her spirit and influence living on through those around her, and that her spirit is still connected to the natural world and the exploration of how this is affecting us in this new digital age.

The resulting collection shows pieces in a palette of saffron, rose, celadon and obsidian. McLaughlin has created pieces with a paper-like quality of hand-drawn animation, using fabrics including faille, georgette, silk and leather.

Further influencing the collection is Bill Crisafi’s hallucinatory illustrations, reflected in the silhouette giving a nod to the film’s eponymous deadly nightshade plant.

There is certainly a cohesiveness with McLaughlin’s collections, but this SS20 with his use of fabrication, and strong color placement, precise tailoring and strong but feminine silhouette is certainly an exciting evolution of his design aesthetic.

Photo credit: Courtesy of Hogan McLaughlin

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MICHAEL KORS SS20- AMERICAN PIE

9/12/2019

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Setting off over the Brooklyn Bridge, making my way to Duggal Greenhouse, Brooklyn Navy Yard, a line of cars makes their way into the entrance. As I walk towards the venue, a black car stops, a window rolls down and there is Rachel Zoe’s husband, Rodger Berman who leans out of his window and asks the men in suits working the event, “Is the drop off area up there?” I have most definitely arrived at the Michael Kors show.

Nicole Kidman arrives at Michael Kors

Kate Hudson and Nicole Kidman front row at Michale Kors

Olivia Palermo and Stacy Fan at Michael Kors

Photographers in their droves rush to take photos of the celebrities as they enter, amongst them Nicole Kidman and Kate Hudson. Kors, one of the most well-liked designers in the industry without doubt attracts a strong crowd, all ready to support him. The black roped area leads to the entrance, a screen of painted blue sky is setup adjacent to the entrance serving as the step and repeat and right next to it is the East River, with the water sparkling from the reflection of the sun on this gorgeous and sunny day. It is appropriately bright with clear skies ahead.

Stacy Fan at Michael Kors

The venue was well thought-out, stepping outside of Manhattan where the majority of the shows have been taking place the past week, Kors stands out before the show has even started.

Kors is most certainly aware of the discourse we find ourselves in and his recent collections have sought to find some sense of positivity, a reflection he lives by himself. More than a tag line it’s a fundamental principle he seems to live by.

Stepping inside, we wait for the show to begin, and begin with a bang it does. We open to the Young People’s Chorus of New York City, singing American Pie.

“American Pie”, the inspiration behind Kors’ collection. And so his collection begins, a beautiful array of stunning tailoring, sportwear, and military inspired pieces. Turning to the romanticism of the 40’s for inspiration this season but with the Kors touch meant clean lines and crisp tailoring.

Further reinventing the 40’s feel, with Kors’ stamp meant updated hardware, and blending lux versus relaxed, a theme Kors was playing around with throughout the collection. Reinterpreting the classic pieces with a little more of a streetwear-edge, reimagined feminine pieces such as the romper, were given a toughened-up look with darted nipped waists and wide exaggerated shoulders. This was a silhouette that ran throughout the collection with both a strong shoulder or a ruched sleeves. Gingham cropped jackets made an appearance, with attention to the shoulder once again and continuing the detailed silhouette with a ruffle skirt. Nautical themes also ran through the collection with a palette of midnight blue, adorned with gold anchors.

Evening dresses gave a call back to the American Pie patriotism, but blended with the nautical color scheme as Kors showed dresses in midnight blues with star studded embroidery and a nipped in waist. The optimism continued with playsuits with crystal lemon as well as cherry embroidery.

Playing with punk versus preppy resulted in a true standout look with the gabardine cut away trench coat worn with wool pleated trousers and a cropped midnight blue cashmere pullover. Another breathtaking piece, the midnight navy trousers with gold stitching that without any special effects sparkled down the runway.

Menswear pieces included pleated trousers, argyle cashmere pullovers, white poplin shirts, a pinstripe cotton blazer with pick-stitch detailing and a statement pullover, driving Kors’ message right the way home, with the word “Hate” crossed out.

The collection was wearable luxury at its finest. Celebrating the America we are all nostalgic for, a celebration of diversity, vibrancy, and positivity and as Kors reminds us, the home of sportswear which he so proudly displays.

With SS20 collection mirroring this sense of hope, the New Young People’s Chorus of New York City sing us out of the show, this time belting out, A love Train, As Kors comes out to take his bow, huge smile and all waves as he bounds his way around the runway, waving at each section before sprinting backstage. As we step outside again, I can literally feel that renewed sense of optimism from the crowd around me, as the lyrics of “People all over the world, everybody join hands, start a love train…” Echo around our heads. And as we look out to the river and the beautiful location Kors’ has invited us to all gather at on this beautiful Wednesday morning, we see there is indeed clear blue skies ahead… welcome to Kors Spring 2020.

Photo credit: Courtesy of Michael Kors

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ANNA SUI SPRING 2020 : VICTORIANNA

9/12/2019

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“I’m calling my Spring 2020 collection Victorianna!” Anna Sui exclaimed.

Sui’s latest collections have acknowledged the tough climate we find ourselves in. In response to this, Sui’s latest offerings have channeled the positive, with her fall collection focused on optimism with a collection that she nicknamed “Poptimism” trying to make sense of the times we find ourselves in.

This SS20, the theme continued with a collection that spoke to that positivism, with her “lighthearted take on Victorian themes”. And when Sui does Victorian themes, she does it with the most whimsical of color palettes, think beautiful pastels, lemon curd, powdered blues, mint pistachio and the dreamiest of lilacs and dusty rose.

The story behind the collection, inspired by the orphaned girl Pollyanna, a Halley Mills film (1960), who believed that life's most difficult challenges can be overcome by positivity and pragmatism.

Sui’s final influence, Lila de Nobili, the mid-20th-century artist, illustrator and costume designer whose collaborations with interior decorator, Renzo Mongiardiono served as her inspiration, in particular Lee Radziwill’s dinning room with a collage of Sicilian scarves pasted to the walls that were then traced and embellished by the hand of De Nobili’s with his Victorian roses. The influence was reflected in her botanical patchwork jacket, recreating the effect with the line of the pattern which Sui traced on frosted seed beads and further embellished with intricate embroidered flowers.

Sui’s collection was as varied as it was stunning. SS20 has focused on pieces that played around with texture, and a variety of silhouettes, vests, marabou boa trimmed robes, chambray shirts, vintage inspired swimwear, calling back to the Victorian influence with a chambray lace Victorian jacket and other textures such as jacquard dresses.

Kaftans and dresses and silk trousers reminiscent of the pajama trend but Sui’s interpretation meant the designer created the looks with a more dreamlike quality, a rose embroidered sequin pants with feather trim. Long tunic dresses, utility jackets, broderie mini dresses and a plethora of fabrics in the mix, with knitwear, tweed and gingham. Kaftans and ponchos that have never looked so desirable as Sui created her oversized floral versions with lace paired over a zig-zag knit dress.

Light and airy dresses, playing with layering as she paired them with trousers or vests, sometimes with a clashing floral print, which also gave way to a more playful collection. SS20 Sui uses a whimsical palette of beautiful pastels sprinkled with flourescent details to give a little edge to the softer more romanticized pieces that Sui is so synonymous with.

Sui isn’t one to follow trends, but this collection, with its ethereal dresses, were given a little edge with pops of neon, paired with a sneaker or platform kept each look fresh, romantic and timeless but equally fun, playful and current, helping to express the duality of women, romantic, confident and totally comfortable in her own skin.

A collection that was filled with escapism, optimism and allowed us into Sui’s beautiful world, what could be better than that, after all who wouldn’t want to be there?

Photo credit: Raoul Gatchalian and Thomas Lau

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CHINA DAY NYFW SS20

9/9/2019

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NYFW China Day is a platform designed to help contemporary Chinese designers enter the US market. This year China Day is bringing some of the most exciting womenswear designers to New York. Kicking off womenswear with designer, Lily followed by Xu Zhi as they debut their SS20 collections.

LILY

The Chinese womenswear brand, Lily showcased their latest collection at Spring Studios on Sept 8th. The design duo behind the brand, Chen Chuan and Lee Lun created a stunning collection of expertly precise tailored pieces with the professional woman in mind. The collection consisted of a monochromatic long sleeved shirt dress, paired over a skirt. Playing with layering again was a white long sleeved shirt dress adorned with an original print, styled over a matching print skirt.

The duo even paid homage to athleisurewear pieces with a utility trench over an A line skirt, accessorized with brogues and gym inspired bag.

Skirts came fitted, given an edge with high waisted pockets and front zipper and a daring slit that still remained workwear appropriate but helped showcase the confidence of the woman they always have in mind when designing. The top half, a long-sleeved sheer shirt in army green, kept the utility style of the collection cohesive.

Eveningwear came in the form of a long one shouldered black dress, cut on an angle and then layered with sheer fabric.

The duo expertly played with proportions, an oversized boxy blazer, with a slim fitting dress, a leather trench with matching v neck top and perfectly contrasting pastel blue skirt, keeping the cool factor ever present with white brogues.

ACCESSORIES

Further playing with proportions they accessorized with a mix of small crossbody bags, oversized briefcases and belt bags. The entire collection was a beautiful demonstration of effortlessly cool pieces, showcasing their strong, disenthralled woman.

XU ZHI

London Based designer, Xu Zhi was the second womenswear designer to showcase his collection. Inspired by the Bloom of Youth, the designer infused intricate fabrics, braided embroidery and float prints to blend Greek Mythology with Southern flair to express “poetic adolescence.”

Eric Romer films also served as an inspiration as he played with warmth but sweet sensuality with a soft fruity palette of lemon yellow, watermelon red, soft pastel greens and lush oranges.

The designer played with a mixture of fabrics, and creative textile construction with a light laid-back airy quality, now synonymous with the designer.