LATEST STORIES

ANNA SUI RTW SPRING 2024

9/13/2023

It's been a strange NYFW. Despite being arguably a fairly volatile time, both politically as well as environmentally, it's quite surprising the lack of subliminal messages that designers have shown in their collections. Particularly given that historically, many designers have taken the opportunity in seasons past to show their own thoughts on pressing matters, or even try and evoke some sort of change, the messages thus far have been somewhat quiet.

However Anna Sui's collection took a different approach. Despite the fact that the designer isn't one to usually show layered political messages as the undertone of her shows, and by her own admission doesn't consider herself an activist, this collection, Sui felt compelled.

“One of the most gorgeous sights I’ve ever seen is the underwater coral reefs and sea-life when I visited Australia’s Gold Coast. The reality of this and all the coral reefs around the world disappearing has shocked me into realizing the fragility of everything.”

Sui continues “In 1903 and 1907, George Melies filmed The Kingdom of the Fairies and Under the Sea. My vision of underwater has always been this fantasy world of exotic fish, coral, and mermaids. Who hasn’t dreamt of going 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea or scuba diving like James Bond in the Caribbean, The Incredible Mr. Limpet, the undersea explorer Jacques Cousteau, and more recently, My Octopus Teacher.II”

Sui’s fabrics and prints throughout the collection are a celebration of the sea. Iridescent, fluttery, shimmery, and swirls of colors and tones emulate the dazzling effects of Mother of Pearl and shells. The jacquards are metallic or iridescent with prints on top.

Some of the more unusual pieces, a botanical warp print denim and an opalescent knit. Gingham is beautifully paired with embroidered organza with iridescent sequins. “I love the oversized fish sweaters in pastels layered over giant gingham and glitter print jersey. Giant eyelet in pink and cantaloupe. Mini arcadia blossom printed floral in a princess dress and a boudoir bed jacket. Riviera crochet bathing suits, metallic palm leaf jacquard, and terry cabana jacket and skort are perfect for an island paradise. Kaftans and princess dresses shimmer and shine when mixed with ocean color tie-dye denim, Pisces jacquard and waterfall sequins.”

The Accessories served to create a further cohesion of the collection with pieces including iridescent crochet hats and bags, airy fluttery kerchiefs, over-sized shoulder bags in sequins as well as print and velvet, and mini bags also in gingham, terry, and Mother of Pearl. The John Fluevog sandals are tie-dye leather and the mules in celestial sequins or metallic leather with a conch shell heel.

The jewelry by Erickson Beamon featured shells intricately decorated with iridescent beads and bubbles. Butterfly and rhinestone trim cat-eyeglasses are by Anna Sui Eyewear.

The collection was romantic aethereal and fluid, whilst expressing Sui’s love for the underwater world, and love letter to a world that could be lost. If you would like to learn more visit missionblue.com

Credits

Models:
Heather Diamond Strongarm
Diane Chiu
Sara Grace Wallerstedt
Avanti Nagrath
Dahan Phuong Oanh
Aubrey Hill
Danielle Zinaich
America Gonzalez
Lulu Wood
Yoon Young Bae
Evie Harris
Lyra Westecott
Heather Marks
Jordan Daniels
Enya Davis
Cristina Piccone
Amelia Gray

Photographer:
Raoul Gatchalian
Jonas Gustavson
Gerardo Somoza (@gerardosomozaphotography)

Makeup:
Pat McGrath Labs (@patmcgrathlabs_contact)

Hair:
GARREN for R+Co BLEU (@randcobleu)

DIAMONDS ARE FOREVER- KEVAN HALL FALL 2023

2/18/2023

1950’s glamour and Shirley Bassey’s “Diamonds Are Forever” served as the inspiration for Kevan Hall’s Fall 2023 collection, aptly named FACETED.

As a reworked upbeat version of Bassey's "Diamonds Are Forever", played out, Hall's latest collection made its way down the runway on February 15th, 2023 in New York's West 3rd Club in the Grand Ballroom.

The setting as well as the perfectly remixed music mirrored Hall’s inspiration of mixing iconic silhouettes with a unique twist. This collection capturing the sophistication and aspiration of 50s elegance with strikingly refined pieces, that are both timeless yet entirely current in their aesthetic. Something Hall is synonymous with.

Using a wide color palate of monochromatic black and white, all the way through to ruby red and emerald green, Hall’s gemstone palette was there to match, using everything from Emerald and sapphire, to Ruby and amethyst which he juxtaposed with the softest crepe as well as more luxe fabrics like velvet.

Hall created a unique prismatic effect on many of his pieces by using crystalline structured materials that were used to refract light, creating a stunning gleaming effect on the runway.

Hall’s use of tweed was a nod to Parisian wear. Whilst the high gloss metal on these pieces were used to update the look which resulted in classic pieces with a modern twist. The silhouette of his suit jackets, adorned with gems showcased the collar bone, creating a show stopping evening look that could be styled in a multitude of ways and worn for a beautiful dinner all the way through to a black tie event. A true hero piece in the collection.

Another stand out in the collection was the capri pant and off the shoulder blazer suit that once again balanced timeless elegance with modern sophistication.

The diamond inspiration ran throughout with the use Jeffrey Daniels Unique Designs of Gem Platinum as well as the high-style jewelry which was used with almost every look.

Evening classic glamour, meets Parisian sophistication and understated elegance. Another beautiful and timeless collection from Kevan Hall.

Photo credit: Arun Nevader

Credit : Connor Morgan / 18 Mile Media

14TH PRESENTATION OF THE ART OF COSTUME DESIGN IN TELEVISION

8/29/2022

It’s hard to believe that I’m sitting here in August 2022 still talking about the effects of the pandemic, the impact that it’s had on all of us and the way in which it has changed the world forever. We no longer see the world the same way and in turn aren’t doing things in the same way. Day to day, the way we even attend the office and certainly, events have now changed.

Through some of those darker days of the pandemic, as production came to a holt and theatres went dark, one thing so many of us could agree on, was that art in all its forms, is important. It provides an outlet for dreams, a light when there was so much darkness and uncertainty and sometimes just a place for pure escapism when we needed it. Even providing a means for us to make sense of what is going on around us.

Going back to a FIDM Museum event, this one being the always wonderful presentation of the Art of Costume Design in Television exhibition opening, the first one I’ve attended since the pandemic began, was a special moment. Seeing the genius creations of the costume designers, the collaborations with writers, and sometimes even the actors themselves, recreating eras of old Hollywood, reimagining moments of history, as well as sometimes creating an entire world, all from the beautiful minds of artists, gave us a chance to celebrate those who’ve brought light, joy and entertainment to us with their labors of love, hours of work and talented hands all under one roof at the FIDM Museum.

And Just Like That- Costume Designer: Molly Rogers

The event was a different kind of affair to years gone by, more intimate, a moment to truly celebrate the costume designers and their well-earned Emmy nominations. This year’s exhibition, the 14th of its kind, includes 13 shows that are Emmy nominated for Costume Design and held at the FIDM Museum at The Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising, in Downtown Los Angeles.

Shows running on traditional as well as streaming platforms are on display, and with a variety of genres, including episodic series, limited series and variety programming.

Displaying a huge range of costumes including period, contemporary dramas, quirky comedy to Sci-fi fantasy, there really is something for everyone.

So if you’re in Los Angeles from now, until November 5th, run, don’t walk to this wonderful free exhibition. It’s your chance to see the work of costume designers from your favorite shows up close. You’ll gasp in amazement at the details and ornate work of these spectacular costume designers in a time where we are feeling even more grateful than ever to be able to go to exhibitions again and see some beautiful art through fashion up close and personal.

Below is just a small peak of what you'll see at the exhibition!

The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel - Costume Designer: Donna Zakowska

Emily in Paris- Costume Designer: Patricia Fields

Grace and Frankie- Costume Designer: Allyson B. Fanger

Black-ish - Costume Designer: Michelle R. Cole

Bridgerton Costume Designer: Sophie Canale

THE DETAILS:
FIDM Museum address: 919, Grand Ave, Los Angeles, CA, 90015.
Gallery Hours: Tuesday – Saturday. Closed Sunday
Event cost: Free
Dates: Now (August 23rd) until November 5th 2022.

KEVAN HALL : TRADING POST

2/17/2022

One of my last reviews of a collection, pre-pandemic was the incredible emerging designers, and the wonderful founders of The Black Design Collective. So it only seems fitting that the first collection review I do, as we begin to see light at the end of this arduous two-year stretch is to review Kevan Hall’s beautiful collection. One of the founders of The Black Design Collective and a career that spans over an incredible 38 years, Hall has dressed everyone from Jacqueline Kennedy, Michelle Obama to Charlize Theron.

Kevan Hall’s collection is what many of us have been dreaming about from the beginning of 2020, wondering whether PC (Post Covid) life and the way we dress would look the same as it did before? Would we still be dressing up? Or would athleisurewear be the way forward? Thankfully, Hall has given us all the best kind of hope with his Fall / Winter 2022 collection. Much like the fashion post prohibition we are ready and longing to dress us up and travel once more. And Hall has given us just what we need with his collection, Trading Post. Inspired by days gone by. Back to a time when travelers would trade their goods, mythology and handcrafted textiles from Morocco to Mali, to the fabled Tarshish.

Hall has used regional fabrics mixed with gold and copper metallics, and in doing so has given us a reconceptualized dazzling transportation back to the era of maritime trade and luxurious beauty.

Hall’s second collection back on the runway after a twenty-year hiatus from showing has done nothing to dim the light on his show nor collections. Always retaining a modern take on timeless pieces, he has once again excelled himself. Plentiful in luxe pieces with the use of rich jacquards, matelassé and brocades, Hall completes his storytelling of this historical yet modernized journey through these fabrics, bringing us to an extraordinary juncture and much longed-for unanimity from far and remote locations.

Setting the scene for our journey, both traditional and contemporary Moroccan as well as Middle Eastern furniture and antiques were used in a warehouse setting. Feminine day dresses with abstract and animal prints billowed their way through the exquisite backdrop as the show begins. Moving into the mid-section of Hall’s storytelling, gives us the rich tale of abundant beauty told through tailored pieces in luxe materials including brocade. Ending the mythical journey with spectacular eveningwear so synonymous with the designer.

With the use of metallic florals, and rich drapery the result was a stunning flow of graceful fluidity and movement. The final showstoppers of this transportive tale through time was created by Hall’s use of black and gold sequins on the gowns and suits, and the Arabesque influenced metallic and matelassé used on the outerwear. The suits were sexy but worn with such ease, a sign of tailoring to perfection. The jacquard mandarin cut blazer belted to cinch in the waist was another hero piece as it encapsulates his entire collection, luxe fabric, stunning tailoring, and modern yet timeless in its silhouette. Whilst the final dress with its cutout sides and matching gold embellished weighted coat was a complete showstopper.

This dream of a journey was what we have all needed after a two year pause on glamour, fantasy and event dressing, but Hall has certainly brought us back with a bang.

KEVAN HALL FALL/WINTER 2022 NYFW

Photo credit: Evan Hall.

THE MET GALA...YOUR INVITE TO THE 2020 EXHIBITION PREVIEW

5/4/2020

The first Monday in May. The Met Gala, fashions biggest night out, was cancelled this year. Making the decision back in March 16th 2020 due to Covid-19. Today would ordinarily be the day that marks the opening of the Metropolitan Museum of Art spring exhibition.

The Met Gala event, which began in 1995 is organised and overseen by Anna Wintour. As well as the pure glamour of the night, one of the Gala’s purposes is to be a fundraiser for the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute. Raising money in eight figure sums, with last years 2019 exhibition breaking records by raising $15 million USD dollars.

Whilst the Metropolitan Museum of Art museum will be missing this years gala as well as the fundraised money that accompanies it, the Museum is moving forwarding and has announced that the new exhibition, now scheduled to open on October 29th 2020 shall be “About Time.” And can be previewed on the Metropolitan Museum of Art museum website.

The 2020 exhibition which marks the Met’s 150th anniversary, will celebrate a century and a half of fashion, starting from 1870 to the present, using a disruptive timeline.

Drawisng on Henri Bergson's concept of la durée (meaning duration), it will take an exploratory look at how clothes, “generate temporal associations that conflate past, present, and future.” (www.metmuseum.org) whilst Virginia Woolf will be used as the "ghost narrator" of the exhibition.

Spread over two adjacent galleries, a timeline of 120 fashions will tell the story through “60 minutes of fashion”, symbolized by two large clocks in the galleries. For every minute, a pair of garments will be featured. The primary garment symbolizes the linear nature of fashion whilst the secondary work symbolizes its cyclical character.

‘Each pair will be connected through shape, motif, material, pattern, technique, or decoration. For example, a black silk faille princess-line dress from the late 1870s will be paired with an Alexander McQueen "Bumster" skirt from 1995. All of the primary garments will be black, to emphasize their evolving silhouettes, and the secondary will be either black or white, to underscore their mutually reinforcing associations.’ – (The Met Gala.)

Click above to read Michael Cunningham's Short Story

Concluding the exhibition with a small selection of garments from 2020 that amongst other ethical issues prevalent to the next decade of fashion, will explore the relationship between the concept of duration as well as the conversation of inclusivity, the debate about diversity, sustainability, traceability, transparency, longevity and collaboration.

For those looking to still celebrate the Met Gala and its exhibition, a reading list from Virginia Woolf’s “About Time” can be found on their website as well as an interview and an excerpt from Michael Cunningham's short story “Out of Time” that he wrote for the catalogue can be previewed. The catalog is also available for pre-order.

Anna Wintour at The Met Gala - Photo credit, The Met Gala Official Instagram

For those truly nostalgic for the event and were looking forward to seeing this years looks, the site is also looking back at the last five years of The Met Gala to help fill the void.

What do we know about was planned for this years event?

Whilst we don’t know the guest list as it’s not realized until the night before, each year about 600 guest are invited. Invited guests don’t pay to attend, however the gala raises money by charging those non-invited guest to buy tickets. Priced at approximately $30,000 USD, and tables costing around $275,000.

Gala favorites in previous years have been Rihanna who has also co-chaired, Beyoncé, as well as Lady Gaga who co-chaired last years gala and did four outfit changes on the red carpet!

THIS YEARS THEME

Tilda Swinton, Orlando

Given the exhibition is “About Time” Curator of the Costume Institute, Andrew Bolton was inspired by Virginia Woolf’s novel, Orlando, but more specifically the 1992 Sally Potter film, based on the novel.

Bolton said, “There’s a wonderful scene,” he said, “in which Tilda Swinton enters the maze in an 18th century woman’s robe à la Francaise, and as she runs through it her clothes change to mid-19th century dress, and she re-emerges in 1850s England. That’s where the original idea came from.”

The Hosts:

Each year a host is appointed and this year was going to be co-chaired by Nicolas Ghesquière, Lin-Manuel Miranda, Meryl Streep, Emma Stone, and Anna Wintour.

who was attending?

Whilst we don’t know the guest list as it’s not released until the night before, each year about 600 guest are invited with a celebrity serving as a designers muse and its most usual for them to attend with the designer. Invited guests don’t pay to attend, however the gala raises money by charging those non-invited guest to buy tickets. Priced at approximately $30,000 USD, and tables costing around $275,000.

Gala favorites in previous years have been Rihanna who has also co-chaired, Beyoncé, as well as Lady Gaga who co-chaired last years gala and did four outfit changes on the red carpet!

With everything going on in the world at the moment, this certainly pales in comparison, however it is a night that will be missed, so here’s a look back at some of the best Met Gala moments over the last five years!

A LOOK BACK BEFORE WE LOOK FORWARD
2015-2019

For more information visit https://www.metmuseum.org

COVID-19 : WHAT DOES IT MEAN FOR THE FUTURE OF THE FASHION INDUSTRY?

4/15/2020

Anna Wintour wearing a protective face mask during the pandemic.
Photo credit: Vogue Instagram

Is this a frivolous question, do people even care? It might, at face value seem like a superficial question to ask given all that is going on in our world at the moment. However it’s also important to note that we are living through a historical moment and fashion during times of crisis has always played a significant part.

Some might argue this pandemic may change fashion more than any other event we’ve seen in history so far, both structurally and creatively; Why? Because when this is all over, unlike a war, we won’t, for some time at least, be able to comfortably congregate in the way we did before, giving way to questions over how we will move forward with collections? Will we finally be choosing sustainability over fast fashion or will It have the opposite effect in the face of this economic crisis? And what will fashion shows look like going forward?

FIDM: Photo credit: FIDM Instagram

HISTORICAL EVENTS AND FASHION

When we look back during times of war, we can in part see the nations response through their clothing. Fashion is certainly indicative of how people are feeling during that period and a reflection of the times. Uniforms created in order to allow men to fight and women to work. Fashion magazines showing women how to wear pieces in their husband’s wardrobe to enable them to spend their clothing allowance on other, more pressing items needed, as well as making their wardrobe more practical for their current situation.

Now we are living through a time where Forbes magazines and fashion magazines are showing us how to make masks, to protect ourselves and others as much as possible from the Coronavirus as masks are sold out everywhere, even medical staff can’t get their hands on enough personal protective equipment (PPE).

Photo: Courtesy of Collina Strada

A CRISIS : THE FASHION INDUSTRIES RESPONsE

In response, some fashion brands are using their factories to manufacture PPE. Parent company of Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton, Guerlain and Givenchy, LVMH, began manufactoring hand sanitizers, providing it to French health authorities for free. Meanwhile Louis Vuitton repurposed some of the Mason's ateliers across France to help produce hundreds of thousands of non-surgical face masks. In partnership with the Mode Grande Ouest textile network, this initiative was set up to fight the pandemic, donating the PPE to frontline healthcare workers.

FIDM (Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising based in Los Angeles) have been admirable in their efforts to help. Having been inspired by the communities’ efforts, they came together with The Major of Los Angeles, Eric Garcetti, to donate fabric to L.A. to aid in making protective gear for Angelenos during the pandemic.

Garcetti has partnered with Kaiser Permanente to develop the design specifications for non-medical masks. Alligning with these specifications, FIDM has donated over 600 yards of cotton woven and cotton knit to make the face masks.

Photo credit: FIDM Instagram

3D printing is also being used to create ear guards for masks in order to protect hospital workers faces so the masks don’t dig in quite as much. Even some of the more ‘woke’ bloggers are churning out the ear guards on 3D printers to help keep up with the demand.

Photo credit: LVMH Instagram

OUR DAILY LIVES AFFECTED

For those of us lucky enough to keep our jobs and work from home, how have we been affected? Even in a very basic way it’s affecting us on a daily basis. Whether or not you are in the fashion industry it’s changed all of our daily wardrobes, seeing us pulling out pieces that are work from home appropriate, comfortable pieces, yet items that give some nod to professionalism. This time has shown us that despite being at home all day, we need to get dressed, in order to function as we normally would, to feel productive, to give ourselves a sense of self-worth and yes, to even cheer ourselves up.

It’s also important for those Zoom and other video meetings to show both our colleagues and bosses that we are still in fact functioning human beings. It’s shown us how important it is to have a routine. To get up, shower, do our makeup and pick out our clothes. Catt Sadler has even created “Formal Fridays” on her Instagram, having followers dress up in their finest every Friday. For every tagged photo, (#formalfridays) she is donating to an organization helping to fight the pandemic.

Photo credit: Catt Sadler Instagram

Tops and jewelery have suddenly become the hero items both online and in our closets. But what of the bigger picture? As we say goodbye to the first month (in the U.S at least) of quarantine, fashion magazines are having to find a new way to speak about fashion. Unable to shoot new collections for editorials, how do we communicate through fashion without being able to showcase it in the traditional way?

The fashion industry doesn’t only move with the times, it embraces it and arguably it helps with change. In recent years more than ever before, fashion isn’t just about clothes, it’s about conveying a message. So what will happen to the fashion industry as we see ourselves evolve through this pandemic and what about the fashion shows themselves?

Chiara Ferragni - wearing a Christian Dior, "We Should All be Feminists" T-shirt

FASHION SHOWS: THE FUTURE

As a fashion editor, I’ve been going to fashion shows for several years now. For me and many others, it’s a chance to see the clothes up close, to report on the show and share with readers what’s likely to be trending that season. However it’s more than that. I find fashion shows an emotional experience. You might scoff at that, but it’s a moment where designers are connecting with us. It’s the show as a whole, the clothes of course, but the message conveyed through the collection. It’s a story, a piece of theatre condensed into a few minutes. It’s months, maybe even years of hard work, it’s their message to us and to the world. A good show gives me goosebumps, a really great show can make me tear up. To see the talent and beauty that designers are bringing to us is a privilege and in my opinion important. It’s a form of art and even in the darkest of times, perhaps even more so, art is important. We turn to it, we need it. But what is the future of fashion shows after the pandemic and what will fashion look like?

Stacy Fan headed into a show during NYFW (full look by Janna L- designer and founder of 5ifth Fashion Week store.

It’s unlikely that for the forseeable future we will be congregating in the way we once did at a show, let alone a whole fashion month, jumping between NY, London and Europe. But how will they adapt? Fashion shows have already changed significantly in the last few years. But let’s go back to the beginning.

Fashion shows first began back in the 1860s, when English fashion designer, Charles Frederick Worth, used live models to show his clothes in Paris in place of traditional mannequins. It was he who was a pioneer in setting trends of what women would be wearing. Instead of women choosing for themselves, giving ideas or instructions of what they wanted their tailor to create for them, a new era of trend dressing had begun.

Revisite le Calle, House of Worth, Paris

But what can we expect for the future of shows? In recent years they have gone on to become spectacles, from Karl Largefeld turning The Great Wall into a runway for Fendi, to recreating an airport terminal and taking his show to a beach recreated indoors for Chanel. And Marc Jacobs, another designer notorious for his spectacular shows, had his models come down on four escalators on to a yellow and white checked flooring for Louis Vuitton.

When we look back at this time, I wonder what changes we’ll have seen as a result of this pandemic. Will we see a new kind of show, with more designers simply choosing to show online perhaps? And from this will there be an emergence of a new way of shopping? The, ‘See now buy now’ concept hasn’t taken off, at least in the mainstream, as we still have a huge lag time (6 months, a lifetime in fashion) for the most part between a show and customers being able to purchase the piece.

Louis Vuitton SS13

As for the shows for FW20, Giorgio Armani was forced to do his show in a completely empty theatre in Italy as models walked the runway with no audience for his Women’s FW20-21 fashion show as a, “Preventative measure decided by Mr Armani to support national efforts in safeguarding public health.” Instead the show was streamed online at Armani.com with Mr. Armani taking his bow at the end of the show to his online viewers.

Giorgio Armani showcasing his FW20-21collection in an empty theatre

Giorgio Armani stands to thank his online audience.

Stacy Fan interviewing new designers. Photo credit : Eurasian Vogue Instagram

TIME FOR CHANGE?

In more recent seasons I’ve seen designers taking a departure from traditional shows, choosing presentations over full shows, picking unusual locations around the city. So what will be next? I don’t foresee us taking everything online, but the fashion industry has been edging its way to a different way of doing things for a while. Is this the push needed in order to really mix it up and take it into a new day?

The industry like every other is being hit hard. Sadly new designers will be feeling the sting the most, with us potentially heartbreakingly losing a whole generation of new designers who may not make it out of this pandemic with their businesses still intact. From manufacturing and production stopping, to collections and orders on hold. It’s an unprecedented time for the 2 trillion-dollar industry. An industry that is responsible for creating around 300 million jobs globally.

However, most importantly we also have to remember that it is an industry that is one of the biggest culprits of pollution and we need to take responsibility for that. I have hope that even if sustainability takes a step back during this time of crisis, I believe later it will become a priority, it simply has to. If this pandemic has shown us anything, it’s the reality that if we don’t have our health and a world we can comfortably live in, then what do we have, really?

THE FUTURE: SUSTAINABILITY

One conclusion I think we can all come to is that we need to be better, to do better. Could this pandemic be the final push that we need to move towards a more sustainable future? Factories currently aren't able to manufacture at the same quantity as before. As a result, consumers are beginning to realise that making clothes, even those before considered fast fashion, does in fact require a large expenditure of labor and that it isn't without cost, both monetarily, but the largest cost is at the expense of our planet. We have been edging our way very slowly to becoming more sustainable and more aware, but this pandemic may be the biggest shake up needed to really challenge peoples previous notions on the production of clothing.

We’ve undeniably taken far too much for granted for so long. Hopefully from this we shall all become a little more aware and a little more grateful. Whilst we’ve all been in quarantine, the planet has had a chance to heal. Recent recordings conducted by NASA (Earth Observatory) show carbon dioxide emissions have decreased and air pollution has lessened. Is this the wake up call we needed to realise where we can cut back even once the lockdown has lifted? Will it change both our outlook and buying habits, which will in turn impact the fashion industry as we demand sustainability over fast fashion? Who knows what the future holds, but as far as the fashion industry goes, one thing is for sure, it will, as it has always done in times past, evolve.

Christian Dior - A brighter outlook post war.

BRIGHTER DAYS AHEAd

During times of pain, beauty emerges and with that comes hope. Let’s not forget that out of the war came Christian Dior. Quickly garnering himself the reputation as one the most prominent courtiers of the twentieth century. His first collection, which he showed in Paris during a fashion show in 1947 marked a new era.

Dior was the first designer to allow photographers in to capture the show. It was another step in the evolution of the runway show, marking how we publicize shows to this day and a massive shift creatively from the severe clothes and uniforms worn during that time. His collection was symbolic of a new, brighter day. As a result, the editor during that time for Harper’s Bazaar, Camel Snow, called the collection, “The New Look” as Dior embraced the most feminine silhouette, full bodied skirts and a cinched in waist. A silhouette that has become synonymous with the brand even today. It was more than a collection; it was a new way of life. A re-birth. What will emerge from this pandemic remains to be seen, but as history has proved, we will continue, we will move forward and we will emerge stronger than before.

Christian Dior, "The New Look"

Christian Dior Couture SS11

Here’s how to help those affected by the coronavirus pandemic via CNBC

In the United States, Lunchboxes for Love set up by DK's Donuts Founder, Mayly Tao is providing lunches for healthcare workers. Click to visit their instagram for more information and ways to donate.

WHEN OUR WORLD IS TURNED UPSIDE DOWN...

4/10/2020

Q AND A WITH PSYCHOLOGIST ANN FAN

Stacy Fan with mum and psychologist Ann Fan

Whenever my world is turned upside down, one voice that can comfort me is my mum. Despite the fact that she lives in England and I’m in America, she’s just one call away and she’s great at calming me down. It just so happens that my mum, Ann Fan, is also a practicing psychologist for over twenty years, so in addition to being there as my mum, she can also help me in practical ways when it comes to managing stress. Recently, mine and everyone else’s life the world over changed. This time, I called my mum, not only to talk about the pandemic we are going through, but to also ask her to work with me on an article that would hopefully help anyone who was feeling anxious, depressed, confused or stressed during this time.

Ann Fan is a cognitive behavioural therapist with the following qualifications: LL.B (Hons); (B.A. (Hons) (in psychology); MSc (health psychology); PDip (in cognitive behavioural therapy); accredited cognitive behavioural therapist with the BABCP (British Association for Behavioural and Cognitive Psychotherapies). Here I ask her what we can do to take care of ourselves, handle the anxiety we might be experiencing and how to get used to our ‘new normal’.

But before we begin, let’s start at the beginning. A few weeks ago, the world as we know it changed. We’d heard about the Coronavirus back in December 2019 when we saw the news and were told that China, more specifically Wuhan, had been hit with the virus. China responded and were going into lockdown. Residents were only allowed out to do grocery shopping, having their temperatures checked as they came in and out of the store. They had to give their phone number in case someone later became infected, so those recording it could track everyone who had been in contact with that person. It sounded awful, some of us had friends and family who were being affected, but it felt far away. We sympathized but we didn’t know.

Fast forward a few months. Europe is hugely hit with the virus, America begins shutting down flights, Europe included, U.K and Ireland were exempt. It continues to get worse, U.K and Ireland are now included in the ban and Italy is drowning in the number of cases. America (we don’t know it yet) won’t be far behind. As I write this, the U.S has overtaken both China and Italy with the number of people infected with the virus. I’m now writing this from my home in Los Angeles, as we too are under order for ‘Shelter In’. The 16th of March was the day all restaurants stopped dine-in; gyms, theatres and shopping malls closed. Today, all schools except a few with children of parents working on the frontline, (the true heroes today, doctors, nurses, hospital cleaners, supermarket staff, anyone working every day, risking their own health to enable us to live, to eat, to survive) are closed.

Friday April 3rd at rush hour on Hollywood Blvd

So how are we all handling it? It’s been a rollercoaster of emotions. Many people all over the world have lost their jobs, small businesses are going under and those who have been able to keep their jobs are likely now doing work from home (WFH), which may have before sounded like a dream, but can in actuality be desperately lonely, especially in these days of social distancing and Shelter In place. It’s particularly hard for those living on their own.

For those with kids, it adds a huge challenge, trying to keep young children amused at home, toddlers with boundless amounts of energy, to older kids whose parents are now having to home school their children. That’s right, parents overnight have had to become manager of their own work headquarters and head teacher of their own schools. All the while trying to explain to their children what on earth is going on whilst still trying to wrap their heads around it themselves.

We normally have stay at home parents, we have working parents, and we have teachers, for a reason. It’s not humanly possible for one or even two parents to achieve all of the above. And with no definitive date of end in sight, anxiety and emotions are going into overdrive. So how are we meant to deal with all of this?

It’s going to be a rough time for all of us as we adjust to our new situation. However there are some coping mechanisms we can undertake to manage expectations, and help deal with our own anxiety and mental health during this time.

Stacy Fan: So many people are experiencing a lot of confusion, loneliness, anxiety and depression during this unprecedented time. Can you help us understand some of the feelings that we might be going through?

Ann Fan: Normally we are very fortunate to have the freedom to travel where we want, whether that’s at home or abroad; we’re able to leave our homes at any time of the day or night for pretty much anything we want to do; and weekends are usually about socializing, going to parties and restaurants to meet with friends and loved-ones. Suddenly that has all been taken away; our lifestyles have had to change almost overnight. It’s a shock and has required a massive adaption. In addition, many people’s long-term plans of what they were going to do or achieve this year have had to be cancelled or re-arranged. Examples are weddings, or a long-planned and looked forward to holiday, or celebrating a milestone birthday or anniversary with friends and family. When these are unable to go ahead this can leave feelings of extreme disappointment, which at worst can lead to feelings of depression. A knock on from this are the potential financial implications, and the very real possibility that people may not be able to keep their jobs because businesses are being affected so badly, leading to anxiety and depression.

SF: What are some of the things we can do each day to bring ourselves a sense of normality and to keep ourselves motivated during this time?

AF: Having a routine is important. If you’re working from home this is probably easier because you know what you’re required to do during the day. However, if you’re at home with no work it can lead to a sense of the day being pointless and each day like ground hog day. The first thing that’s important is to get dressed! Don’t sit around in your pyjamas, but put on some comfortable day clothes. Try to keep up your normal self-care routine, such as showering and washing your hair, putting make-up on. These are all important for our sense of self-worth. Have a list of what you want to achieve that day – that closet you’ve been meaning for months to tidy, now’s your opportunity! If you’re able to go out for a walk, do so. Perhaps you can have a regular time-slot where you FaceTime with family. I have heard where people are taking part in on-line quizzes and games and arranging coffee mornings or cocktail evenings shared over the net. If you’re a couple who normally have a regular “date night”, continue to have these, such as cooking a special meal, having some wine and candlelight. Or having a regular movie night. If as a couple you don’t usually do these things, now might be a good time to introduce them! If your finances allow, an occasional on-line purchase of a new item of clothing or jewelery can lift the spirits. And don’t watch too much of the news about what’s going on – stay informed but don’t become over-saturated and over-whelmed by it.

Try to keep up your normal self-care routine, such as showering and washing your hair, putting make-up on. These are all important for our sense of self-worth.

SF: What advice do you have for anyone experiencing anxiety during this time? Thinking about what is going on around us universally can be all consuming, how can we try and manage it?

AF: It’s important to remember that anxiety is a normal part of life – most of us experience it at some level for numerous reasons. Anxiety can cause a number of physical reactions such as increased heart rate, shortness of breath, sweating and trembling. This in turn can lead to the individual becoming even more anxious, perhaps even having a panic attack, when people often think they’re having a heart attack. If you’re experiencing physical symptoms, try and control your breathing so you’re not over-breathing, which leads to feeling faint. You can also try “Progressive muscle relaxation”. If your thoughts are really anxious thoughts, a basic cognitive behavioural therapy (CBT) technique is to do some “thought challenging”. This involves identifying what your triggers are for the anxious (or unhelpful) thoughts, what the specific thought is and then find a more balanced, (helpful) thought to counteract it. In the current situation a typical thought might be “I’m going to catch the virus, get sick, and have to go to hospital”. A more helpful, balanced thought might be “I’m at home, I’m doing everything I have been asked in order to keep safe, I’m keeping myself and my family healthy”.

SF: For those who already suffer from OCD (obsessive compulsive disorder), this could be an unbearably challenging time. What tips can you give those struggling to help control it and keep it in check?

AF: This is a particularly challenging time for people who have OCD particularly if it’s regarding germs and contamination fears. Similarly for people with health anxiety, who may be experiencing heightened worry about their health because of the fear of catching the virus. As OCD and health anxiety are both an anxiety disorder, some simple self- help procedures for mild OCD and health anxiety would again be using some of the thought challenging techniques detailed above. Some examples of questions you can ask yourself to help allay your anxiety are: “Is there any evidence for this thought?; is there any evidence against it?; what would I say to a friend who had this thought?; what would a friend say to me about it?; how can I test this thought to show that it’s false”. There are a number of good cognitive behavioural books that can help with both OCD and health anxiety. People who have OCD or health anxiety which is so severe that it affects their normal quality of life should seek the help of a therapist.

SF: For those who are struggling with social distancing and battling loneliness and / or depression, what can they do to help themselves during this time?

AF: We’re very fortunate to have access to technology which enables us to stay in touch with each other. Use this to its full advantage. Enlist a good friend to be your “buddy” at this time so that you can support each other by phoning or using other methods to tell each other how you’re feeling that day. It’s important to remember when you’re having a bad day, that tomorrow is another day when things may look and feel brighter. Reconnect with people you may have lost touch with; or reach out to your neighbour to see if you can help out with practical things, such as shopping, or just simply to check in on how they are. Altruism is great for giving a sense of purpose and well-being.

Perhaps you can have a regular time-slot where you FaceTime with family. I have heard where people are taking part in on-line quizzes and games and arranging coffee mornings or cocktail evenings shared over the net.

SF: Do you have any advice to help us not become overwhelmed with the situation and worrying about the future as we overcome this pandemic?

AF: None of us ever know what the future holds, even in normal times. Worrying about the future never solves anything, however planning for the future can be helpful. Have you had to cancel plans? - then think of how or when you might be able to put these plans in place again. Plan what activities you’re going to do when you’re allowed social interaction again so you’ve got something to look forward to. Communication is always helpful, talk about your feelings with your partner, friend, mother, father. Everyone is in this together so we can support each other to get through it.

SF: Are there any relaxation exercise we can do to help anxiety during this time?

AF: Many people find Mindfulness to be very helpful. There’s a lot of information on websites about it. There’s a particular exercise called “Leaves on a Stream” (which you can find on-line) which helps relax the mind and dissipates worry. Yoga is also good for physical and mental relaxation. There are lots of apps that can help. There’s one called “Calm” which a lot of people find helpful for relaxation.

The Calm App can be a helpful resource.

SF: For couples who are perhaps only used to seeing each other in the morning and for a few hours at night, switching to seeing them almost 24/7 can be an adjustment, even if the relationship or marriage is good! Do you have any tips for couples to help them keep boundaries?

AF: Having “me time” (time to yourself) is always important, but never more so when you might be staying at home with the same people for an unprecedented amount of time. If you’re able to, have time alone in a separate room. You could listen to music, read, make a phone call to a friend. If the government rules are that you’re allowed out for exercise, perhaps take walks separately. If you and your partner have children, divide the day up so that each of you have time away from looking after the children so you can pursue a solitary pursuit or interest, such as the ones listed above, so that you will feel refreshed to go back and able to either join in the fun as a family or take over the care of children so your partner can have their alone time.

SF: I think one of the most difficult things for people is that we haven’t been given an end date for our current situation. What are some of the things we can do daily to help with anxiety and that lack of knowing when this might end?

AF: With any form of anxiety or depression it is about taking it one day at a time. What you need to remind yourself is that you are being asked to stay at home to keep yourselves and others safe from this terrible disease. If you are able to look on this enforced period at home as an opportunity rather than a problem it will help. For example, have you always wanted to learn a foreign language, learn about a particular subject, learn a new skill, read that stack of books you’ve been meaning to get through? Now’s your opportunity! We’re very fortunate that we have the technology which gives us ways of keeping in touch and learning on-line.

If you’re able to, have time alone in a separate room. You could listen to music, read, make a phone call to a friend.

SF: Do you have any tips to help those who are struggling to sleep?

AF: There are a number of things that can help. 1. If you are having difficulty sleeping it’s often because when we go to bed and it’s quiet our mind starts thinking about all the things that have happened during the day, what we’ve got to do the next day, what bills we have to pay, even what we’re going to cook the next day! What I recommend to my patients who find they worry when they get to bed is to set aside some “worry time” during the day. This involves sitting calmly and listing the things that are troubling them or occupying their mind. Then write possible solutions and how they are going to be achieved. Don’t do this too close to bed-time or it may still be on your mind. 2. One thing that has been proven to keep the mind active when we go to bed is if we’ve had “screen time” just before we settle down. This activates the mind and brain, so put your phone/laptop etc. away at least half an hour before going to bed. And make sure that you don’t check your phone during the night. 3. One other tip is to do something that you find particularly relaxing such as meditation, listening to calming music or having a relaxing bath. 4. Something that is also well known to keep people awake is caffeine so avoid stimulants before bed. Some people find that chamomile tea is relaxing, or the smell of lavender on the pillow.

SF: What are some of the services (in the UK) available for those who might be struggling at the moment?

AF: One of the good things to come out of this current situation is how people have stepped up to help each other. The community spirit in most areas has been remarkable. For example, the UK government appealed for 250,000 volunteers to come forward to help the NHS (National Health Service). That target was met within 24 hours and a total of 750,000 have now volunteered to help with such things as delivering medicines and driving people to appointments. Psychological services, such as the one I work in and which is part of the NHS, have been asked to adjust the way we are working, so we are doing shift work in order to answer help-lines and carry out assessments for people who phone-in feeling anxious and/or depressed. Business which have had to temporarily close have diversified and are helping with such things as preparing and delivering food for free. In the community individuals have also got together to form groups to collect and deliver food and essentials to the elderly or vulnerable. For those struggling with mental health there are the usual phone services, such as The Samaritans. The list is endless and I feel very proud of how we are coping with this. My sincerest wish is that when we are allowed to get back to our normal way of life, that ‘normal’ will be different – I hope that we are all able to appreciate what we have and each other more. Stay safe everyone!

Michael Kors FW20

2/14/2020

Michael Kors knows how to put on a show, whether it’s a huge vibrant runway spectacle or a more grounded one, Kors knows how to move us. This FW20 Kors opened the show with Orville Park performing acoustic guitar as his collection made its way down the runway. The wooden space matched perfectly with his warm and luxe collection.

Kors has become somewhat of a U.S institution and it’s not hard to see why. We know what we are going to get from Kors. His unapologetic love of sportswear, but once again elevated to give it the true look of luxury all at once. Kors knows what America wants and he is there to give it to them with a splash of glamour.

This collection Kors is both looking back, but designing in a way that is most definitely looking to the future. This is reflected most clearly in the orange striped coat, worn on Naomi Campbell 21 years ago, and then slightly updated to be worn on Kaia Gerber.

That’s the genius of Kors, we look back but we also are moving forward. A nod to Kors’ move into sustainability, and pushing for the trend of re-wearing pieces. In a time of being conscious of what an impact fashion is having on the environment Kors is showing us that good investment pieces stand the test of time, just as Kors himself has, as next year we see him celebrating his 40th anniversary of the brand.

His latest collection is without doubt classic timeless pieces that won’t look out of place another 21 years from now. Outerwear really stole the show, with classic and beautifully created capes, a shearling coat as well as super-oversized knits, and matching scarves that doubled up as a coat, ponchos and sharp tailoring, and the celebration of the boot also ran throughout. From the flat riding boot and over the knee wellies for the country, to the stacked heel made for the city. Accessories, crossbody satchels and messenger bags insured we could be carefree and handsfree.

The FW 20 collection was all about easy, cozy glamour. That balance between country and the big city. More modest hemlines and high necklines kept the looks conservative but still stylishly form-fitted. A stunning knit dress that played around with the look of wrapping a sweater over your shoulders, perfect for the country club and paired with tan knee-high riding boots. Easy to wear pieces that were given structure with belts worn over dresses and capes. Skirts were knit and fringe blanket style, dresses were long and loose in form.

This relaxed vibe carried on through to evening wear, loose in form, they carried a cool-easy breezy feel. Dresses paired with a high neck sweater and knee high boot ensured an elegant yet care-free feel to them.

The nod to sustainability also carried on through to his eveningwear, with his sequin dress, one of which Kors made using recycled materials whilst recycled plastic bottles were used to create the sequins adorned on the dress.

Menswear pieces lent into the growing trend of his and hers looks. Complimenting the womenswear collection with their muted colours and relaxed fit. A black cape and riding boots, as well as the shearling coat were offered in both the men’s and womenswear collection. Whilst a grey oversized coat and turtleneck black jumper and a more relaxed fit trouser ensured the his and hers pieces matched the vibe accordingly. Also playing with the country-city balance, a tan puffer coat that with matching shirt and complimenting trousers.

Blending the new with the resurrected, a move into sustainability and a reference back to his previous shows, Kors seemed to have his 40th Anniversary as a point of inspiration and celebration, the result? A show of nostalgia, ease a little utilitarian edge, and a whole lot of easy glamour.

EAST MEETS WEST IN TADASHI SHOJI'S FW20 COLLECTION

2/6/2020

On February 6th, 2020 Tadashi Shoji presented his FW 2020 collection in New York. The inspiration, Mongolia, with its fabled empire and extraordinary past. A place where tales of many Dynasties originated. Spanning centuries it’s where East meets West, filled with intrigue, a legacy that at times is larger than life and it’s this spirit that can be seen throughout the collection.

The inspiration can be seen with Mongolia’s ancestral roots of spirited beauty of the Mongolian steppes. It’s this point of reference we can see weaving its way through the collection in the nomadic outwear, fur lined coats and robe inspired wraps with sashed waists with exquisite luxe patterned textiles. Also seen in the collection, feminine cover-ups that blend faux fur with delicate sequin accents and metallic brocades. Balancing perfectly ornate pieces that are both intricate in design but functional, it’s occasion wear meets functionality.

The color story is influenced by gers, felt-tent homes with their brightly painted doors, interiors with colorful tapestries, and floors sumptuously decorated with rugs, that are peony-patterned embroideries and multi-stitch geometric motifs.

One of the largest empires ever known was the Mongolian Empire, and it saw unprecedented transformation. Bringing together the East and West by opening trade routes which created an exchange of goods and created an influence through each other’s cultures. It was during this time Buddhist monks traveled with merchant caravans in this age of advancement. It’s this influence that can be seen in the draping of the monks’ outer robes that is reflected in Shoji’s one-shouldered silhouettes with necklines that are asymmetric, feminine and bare.

As is synonymous with Shoji’s stunning feminine design aesthetic, his influneces aren’t taken literally but interpreted in his trademark sexy yet elegant pieces. The traditional nomadically-layered looks are deconstructed, the result is pieces larger in volume. The inspiration of a gem and mineral-palette is brought together with silhouettes that are sculpted and supple or tight to the body but full in shape. There are voluminous pieces such as the bubble-hemmed dresses and gowns with pointed shoulder detailing and gigot-esque sleeves, wide at the top and narrower at the bottom. Elegant portrait collars draws attention to the most feminine part of a woman’s neckline and cinched in belted waist paired with an organza jacquard evening coat goes to emphasize the coat’s full-skirted shape to full effect. A taffeta opera coat solidifies the stunningly rich collection with its sweeping cut and voluminous fit.

Drawing on the mythical rich achievements of the Mongolian Empire, this collection went to great depths of respecting and reflecting the incredible history of the Empire that left the world forever touched by its wonderous past.

Makeup and beauty for the Tadashi Shoji Fall/Winter show was provided by the Honest Beauty and Orcé teams and led by makeup artist Daniel Martin, hair led by hair stylist Kevin Ryan for R Session Pro Tools, nail lacquer and design by Lux K on behalf of Pear Nova and skin care prep by Tatcha.

Models wore undergarments by Commando, jewelry by Sequin and footwear by Nina Shoes.

RUTH CARTER X HM COLLECTION

2/6/2020

Last Saturday I had the honor of interviewing Ruth Carter about her latest movie, Dolemite Is My Name. We also touched upon Black Panther, the movie that saw her make history by becoming the first African American to win an Oscar for best costume designer.

Now Ruth Carter, who made the announcement during Black History Month, is making her designing magic available to the masses with the launch of her collaboration with H&M . The capsule collection which will be focused on 80s inspired streetwear includes t-shirts, hoodies, as well as bucket hats.

Carter said, “This Black History Month I’m super excited to announce my collaboration with @hm. With the accessibility of H&M I intend to spread some love and inspiration to all who want to express themselves creatively. All the RUTHLESS ones, in pursuit of ART and TRUTH, like I’ve been with costumes, will find representation here.

This is for YOU.
I’m asking you to
TRUST YOUR VOICE!
SPEAK your TRUTH!
BE your TRUTH!
And, THAT’S the TRUTH Ruth!

Carter’s Friend, TJ walker’s brand, Cross Colours can be seen as a reference point. However Carter has found inspiration from historical significance as well, as she sought The Black Liberation flag as a point of reference. The flag, Created by the Universal Negro Improvement Association and African Communities League in 1920 can be seen as a recurring feature on the designs. Growing up Carter was surrounded by family members who would wear black, red and green, as they spoke through fashion as a way of declaring their empowerment and freedom.

This inspiration can be seen in each piece of the collection. With powerful words such as “Truth”, serve as a reminder of the heart of the collection. The adversity and racism Carter has faced and the walls she has knocked down along the way.

As with designing the costumes for Dolemite Is My Name, when Carter told me, “I just wanted to like the clothes”, this was obviously just as important for this collection, but as well as liking them, she wanted them to be a reminder of the struggles, truth and to serve as a reminder to “Trust your voice”.

With this collection Carter is breaking records once again. H&M have previously collaborated with a string of high profile designers including Alexander Wang, Karl Lagerfeld and Versace to name just a few, however this is the first time the Swedish brand has collaborated with a costume designer. During our previous interview I asked Carter if she felt there had been a shift, embracing designers who are minorities and she said, “Yes, it’s slow though.” Adding, “We have a responsibility to the change as much as the change has a responsibility.” True to her word, Carter is certainly taking on that responsibility as she once again creates another first and in doing so, hopefully paving the way for others to follow.

The Ruth Carter x HM collection launches on February 13th online and in select stores in the US.
For more information visit www.hm.com

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