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KEVAN HALL : TRADING POST

2/17/2022

One of my last reviews of a collection, pre-pandemic was the incredible emerging designers, and the wonderful founders of The Black Design Collective. So it only seems fitting that the first collection review I do, as we begin to see light at the end of this arduous two-year stretch is to review Kevan Hall’s beautiful collection. One of the founders of The Black Design Collective and a career that spans over an incredible 38 years, Hall has dressed everyone from Jacqueline Kennedy, Michelle Obama to Charlize Theron.

Kevan Hall’s collection is what many of us have been dreaming about from the beginning of 2020, wondering whether PC (Post Covid) life and the way we dress would look the same as it did before? Would we still be dressing up? Or would athleisurewear be the way forward? Thankfully, Hall has given us all the best kind of hope with his Fall / Winter 2022 collection. Much like the fashion post prohibition we are ready and longing to dress us up and travel once more. And Hall has given us just what we need with his collection, Trading Post. Inspired by days gone by. Back to a time when travelers would trade their goods, mythology and handcrafted textiles from Morocco to Mali, to the fabled Tarshish.

Hall has used regional fabrics mixed with gold and copper metallics, and in doing so has given us a reconceptualized dazzling transportation back to the era of maritime trade and luxurious beauty.

Hall’s second collection back on the runway after a twenty-year hiatus from showing has done nothing to dim the light on his show nor collections. Always retaining a modern take on timeless pieces, he has once again excelled himself. Plentiful in luxe pieces with the use of rich jacquards, matelassé and brocades, Hall completes his storytelling of this historical yet modernized journey through these fabrics, bringing us to an extraordinary juncture and much longed-for unanimity from far and remote locations.

Setting the scene for our journey, both traditional and contemporary Moroccan as well as Middle Eastern furniture and antiques were used in a warehouse setting. Feminine day dresses with abstract and animal prints billowed their way through the exquisite backdrop as the show begins. Moving into the mid-section of Hall’s storytelling, gives us the rich tale of abundant beauty told through tailored pieces in luxe materials including brocade. Ending the mythical journey with spectacular eveningwear so synonymous with the designer.

With the use of metallic florals, and rich drapery the result was a stunning flow of graceful fluidity and movement. The final showstoppers of this transportive tale through time was created by Hall’s use of black and gold sequins on the gowns and suits, and the Arabesque influenced metallic and matelassé used on the outerwear. The suits were sexy but worn with such ease, a sign of tailoring to perfection. The jacquard mandarin cut blazer belted to cinch in the waist was another hero piece as it encapsulates his entire collection, luxe fabric, stunning tailoring, and modern yet timeless in its silhouette. Whilst the final dress with its cutout sides and matching gold embellished weighted coat was a complete showstopper.

This dream of a journey was what we have all needed after a two year pause on glamour, fantasy and event dressing, but Hall has certainly brought us back with a bang.

KEVAN HALL FALL/WINTER 2022 NYFW

Photo credit: Evan Hall.

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THE MET GALA...YOUR INVITE TO THE 2020 EXHIBITION PREVIEW

5/4/2020

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The first Monday in May. The Met Gala, fashions biggest night out, was cancelled this year. Making the decision back in March 16th 2020 due to Covid-19. Today would ordinarily be the day that marks the opening of the Metropolitan Museum of Art spring exhibition.

The Met Gala event, which began in 1995 is organised and overseen by Anna Wintour. As well as the pure glamour of the night, one of the Gala’s purposes is to be a fundraiser for the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute. Raising money in eight figure sums, with last years 2019 exhibition breaking records by raising $15 million USD dollars.

Whilst the Metropolitan Museum of Art museum will be missing this years gala as well as the fundraised money that accompanies it, the Museum is moving forwarding and has announced that the new exhibition, now scheduled to open on October 29th 2020 shall be “About Time.” And can be previewed on the Metropolitan Museum of Art museum website.

The 2020 exhibition which marks the Met’s 150th anniversary, will celebrate a century and a half of fashion, starting from 1870 to the present, using a disruptive timeline.

Drawisng on Henri Bergson's concept of la durée (meaning duration), it will take an exploratory look at how clothes, “generate temporal associations that conflate past, present, and future.” (www.metmuseum.org) whilst Virginia Woolf will be used as the "ghost narrator" of the exhibition.

Spread over two adjacent galleries, a timeline of 120 fashions will tell the story through “60 minutes of fashion”, symbolized by two large clocks in the galleries. For every minute, a pair of garments will be featured. The primary garment symbolizes the linear nature of fashion whilst the secondary work symbolizes its cyclical character.

‘Each pair will be connected through shape, motif, material, pattern, technique, or decoration. For example, a black silk faille princess-line dress from the late 1870s will be paired with an Alexander McQueen "Bumster" skirt from 1995. All of the primary garments will be black, to emphasize their evolving silhouettes, and the secondary will be either black or white, to underscore their mutually reinforcing associations.’ – (The Met Gala.)

Click above to read Michael Cunningham's Short Story

Concluding the exhibition with a small selection of garments from 2020 that amongst other ethical issues prevalent to the next decade of fashion, will explore the relationship between the concept of duration as well as the conversation of inclusivity, the debate about diversity, sustainability, traceability, transparency, longevity and collaboration.

For those looking to still celebrate the Met Gala and its exhibition, a reading list from Virginia Woolf’s “About Time” can be found on their website as well as an interview and an excerpt from Michael Cunningham's short story “Out of Time” that he wrote for the catalogue can be previewed. The catalog is also available for pre-order.

Anna Wintour at The Met Gala - Photo credit, The Met Gala Official Instagram

For those truly nostalgic for the event and were looking forward to seeing this years looks, the site is also looking back at the last five years of The Met Gala to help fill the void.

What do we know about was planned for this years event?

Whilst we don’t know the guest list as it’s not realized until the night before, each year about 600 guest are invited. Invited guests don’t pay to attend, however the gala raises money by charging those non-invited guest to buy tickets. Priced at approximately $30,000 USD, and tables costing around $275,000.

Gala favorites in previous years have been Rihanna who has also co-chaired, Beyoncé, as well as Lady Gaga who co-chaired last years gala and did four outfit changes on the red carpet!

THIS YEARS THEME

Tilda Swinton, Orlando

Given the exhibition is “About Time” Curator of the Costume Institute, Andrew Bolton was inspired by Virginia Woolf’s novel, Orlando, but more specifically the 1992 Sally Potter film, based on the novel.

Bolton said, “There’s a wonderful scene,” he said, “in which Tilda Swinton enters the maze in an 18th century woman’s robe à la Francaise, and as she runs through it her clothes change to mid-19th century dress, and she re-emerges in 1850s England. That’s where the original idea came from.”

The Hosts:

Each year a host is appointed and this year was going to be co-chaired by Nicolas Ghesquière, Lin-Manuel Miranda, Meryl Streep, Emma Stone, and Anna Wintour.

who was attending?

Whilst we don’t know the guest list as it’s not released until the night before, each year about 600 guest are invited with a celebrity serving as a designers muse and its most usual for them to attend with the designer. Invited guests don’t pay to attend, however the gala raises money by charging those non-invited guest to buy tickets. Priced at approximately $30,000 USD, and tables costing around $275,000.

Gala favorites in previous years have been Rihanna who has also co-chaired, Beyoncé, as well as Lady Gaga who co-chaired last years gala and did four outfit changes on the red carpet!

With everything going on in the world at the moment, this certainly pales in comparison, however it is a night that will be missed, so here’s a look back at some of the best Met Gala moments over the last five years!

A LOOK BACK BEFORE WE LOOK FORWARD
2015-2019

For more information visit https://www.metmuseum.org

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COVID-19 : WHAT DOES IT MEAN FOR THE FUTURE OF THE FASHION INDUSTRY?

4/15/2020

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Anna Wintour wearing a protective face mask during the pandemic.
Photo credit: Vogue Instagram

Is this a frivolous question, do people even care? It might, at face value seem like a superficial question to ask given all that is going on in our world at the moment. However it’s also important to note that we are living through a historical moment and fashion during times of crisis has always played a significant part.

Some might argue this pandemic may change fashion more than any other event we’ve seen in history so far, both structurally and creatively; Why? Because when this is all over, unlike a war, we won’t, for some time at least, be able to comfortably congregate in the way we did before, giving way to questions over how we will move forward with collections? Will we finally be choosing sustainability over fast fashion or will It have the opposite effect in the face of this economic crisis? And what will fashion shows look like going forward?

FIDM: Photo credit: FIDM Instagram

HISTORICAL EVENTS AND FASHION

When we look back during times of war, we can in part see the nations response through their clothing. Fashion is certainly indicative of how people are feeling during that period and a reflection of the times. Uniforms created in order to allow men to fight and women to work. Fashion magazines showing women how to wear pieces in their husband’s wardrobe to enable them to spend their clothing allowance on other, more pressing items needed, as well as making their wardrobe more practical for their current situation.

Now we are living through a time where Forbes magazines and fashion magazines are showing us how to make masks, to protect ourselves and others as much as possible from the Coronavirus as masks are sold out everywhere, even medical staff can’t get their hands on enough personal protective equipment (PPE).

Photo: Courtesy of Collina Strada

A CRISIS : THE FASHION INDUSTRIES RESPONsE

In response, some fashion brands are using their factories to manufacture PPE. Parent company of Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton, Guerlain and Givenchy, LVMH, began manufactoring hand sanitizers, providing it to French health authorities for free. Meanwhile Louis Vuitton repurposed some of the Mason's ateliers across France to help produce hundreds of thousands of non-surgical face masks. In partnership with the Mode Grande Ouest textile network, this initiative was set up to fight the pandemic, donating the PPE to frontline healthcare workers.

FIDM (Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising based in Los Angeles) have been admirable in their efforts to help. Having been inspired by the communities’ efforts, they came together with The Major of Los Angeles, Eric Garcetti, to donate fabric to L.A. to aid in making protective gear for Angelenos during the pandemic.

Garcetti has partnered with Kaiser Permanente to develop the design specifications for non-medical masks. Alligning with these specifications, FIDM has donated over 600 yards of cotton woven and cotton knit to make the face masks.

Photo credit: FIDM Instagram

3D printing is also being used to create ear guards for masks in order to protect hospital workers faces so the masks don’t dig in quite as much. Even some of the more ‘woke’ bloggers are churning out the ear guards on 3D printers to help keep up with the demand.

Photo credit: LVMH Instagram

OUR DAILY LIVES AFFECTED

For those of us lucky enough to keep our jobs and work from home, how have we been affected? Even in a very basic way it’s affecting us on a daily basis. Whether or not you are in the fashion industry it’s changed all of our daily wardrobes, seeing us pulling out pieces that are work from home appropriate, comfortable pieces, yet items that give some nod to professionalism. This time has shown us that despite being at home all day, we need to get dressed, in order to function as we normally would, to feel productive, to give ourselves a sense of self-worth and yes, to even cheer ourselves up.

It’s also important for those Zoom and other video meetings to show both our colleagues and bosses that we are still in fact functioning human beings. It’s shown us how important it is to have a routine. To get up, shower, do our makeup and pick out our clothes. Catt Sadler has even created “Formal Fridays” on her Instagram, having followers dress up in their finest every Friday. For every tagged photo, (#formalfridays) she is donating to an organization helping to fight the pandemic.

Photo credit: Catt Sadler Instagram

Tops and jewelery have suddenly become the hero items both online and in our closets. But what of the bigger picture? As we say goodbye to the first month (in the U.S at least) of quarantine, fashion magazines are having to find a new way to speak about fashion. Unable to shoot new collections for editorials, how do we communicate through fashion without being able to showcase it in the traditional way?

The fashion industry doesn’t only move with the times, it embraces it and arguably it helps with change. In recent years more than ever before, fashion isn’t just about clothes, it’s about conveying a message. So what will happen to the fashion industry as we see ourselves evolve through this pandemic and what about the fashion shows themselves?

Chiara Ferragni - wearing a Christian Dior, "We Should All be Feminists" T-shirt

FASHION SHOWS: THE FUTURE

As a fashion editor, I’ve been going to fashion shows for several years now. For me and many others, it’s a chance to see the clothes up close, to report on the show and share with readers what’s likely to be trending that season. However it’s more than that. I find fashion shows an emotional experience. You might scoff at that, but it’s a moment where designers are connecting with us. It’s the show as a whole, the clothes of course, but the message conveyed through the collection. It’s a story, a piece of theatre condensed into a few minutes. It’s months, maybe even years of hard work, it’s their message to us and to the world. A good show gives me goosebumps, a really great show can make me tear up. To see the talent and beauty that designers are bringing to us is a privilege and in my opinion important. It’s a form of art and even in the darkest of times, perhaps even more so, art is important. We turn to it, we need it. But what is the future of fashion shows after the pandemic and what will fashion look like?

Stacy Fan headed into a show during NYFW (full look by Janna L- designer and founder of 5ifth Fashion Week store.

It’s unlikely that for the forseeable future we will be congregating in the way we once did at a show, let alone a whole fashion month, jumping between NY, London and Europe. But how will they adapt? Fashion shows have already changed significantly in the last few years. But let’s go back to the beginning.

Fashion shows first began back in the 1860s, when English fashion designer, Charles Frederick Worth, used live models to show his clothes in Paris in place of traditional mannequins. It was he who was a pioneer in setting trends of what women would be wearing. Instead of women choosing for themselves, giving ideas or instructions of what they wanted their tailor to create for them, a new era of trend dressing had begun.

Revisite le Calle, House of Worth, Paris

But what can we expect for the future of shows? In recent years they have gone on to become spectacles, from Karl Largefeld turning The Great Wall into a runway for Fendi, to recreating an airport terminal and taking his show to a beach recreated indoors for Chanel. And Marc Jacobs, another designer notorious for his spectacular shows, had his models come down on four escalators on to a yellow and white checked flooring for Louis Vuitton.

When we look back at this time, I wonder what changes we’ll have seen as a result of this pandemic. Will we see a new kind of show, with more designers simply choosing to show online perhaps? And from this will there be an emergence of a new way of shopping? The, ‘See now buy now’ concept hasn’t taken off, at least in the mainstream, as we still have a huge lag time (6 months, a lifetime in fashion) for the most part between a show and customers being able to purchase the piece.

Louis Vuitton SS13

As for the shows for FW20, Giorgio Armani was forced to do his show in a completely empty theatre in Italy as models walked the runway with no audience for his Women’s FW20-21 fashion show as a, “Preventative measure decided by Mr Armani to support national efforts in safeguarding public health.” Instead the show was streamed online at Armani.com with Mr. Armani taking his bow at the end of the show to his online viewers.

Giorgio Armani showcasing his FW20-21collection in an empty theatre

Giorgio Armani stands to thank his online audience.

Stacy Fan interviewing new designers. Photo credit : Eurasian Vogue Instagram

TIME FOR CHANGE?

In more recent seasons I’ve seen designers taking a departure from traditional shows, choosing presentations over full shows, picking unusual locations around the city. So what will be next? I don’t foresee us taking everything online, but the fashion industry has been edging its way to a different way of doing things for a while. Is this the push needed in order to really mix it up and take it into a new day?

The industry like every other is being hit hard. Sadly new designers will be feeling the sting the most, with us potentially heartbreakingly losing a whole generation of new designers who may not make it out of this pandemic with their businesses still intact. From manufacturing and production stopping, to collections and orders on hold. It’s an unprecedented time for the 2 trillion-dollar industry. An industry that is responsible for creating around 300 million jobs globally.

However, most importantly we also have to remember that it is an industry that is one of the biggest culprits of pollution and we need to take responsibility for that. I have hope that even if sustainability takes a step back during this time of crisis, I believe later it will become a priority, it simply has to. If this pandemic has shown us anything, it’s the reality that if we don’t have our health and a world we can comfortably live in, then what do we have, really?

THE FUTURE: SUSTAINABILITY

One conclusion I think we can all come to is that we need to be better, to do better. Could this pandemic be the final push that we need to move towards a more sustainable future? Factories currently aren't able to manufacture at the same quantity as before. As a result, consumers are beginning to realise that making clothes, even those before considered fast fashion, does in fact require a large expenditure of labor and that it isn't without cost, both monetarily, but the largest cost is at the expense of our planet. We have been edging our way very slowly to becoming more sustainable and more aware, but this pandemic may be the biggest shake up needed to really challenge peoples previous notions on the production of clothing.

We’ve undeniably taken far too much for granted for so long. Hopefully from this we shall all become a little more aware and a little more grateful. Whilst we’ve all been in quarantine, the planet has had a chance to heal. Recent recordings conducted by NASA (Earth Observatory) show carbon dioxide emissions have decreased and air pollution has lessened. Is this the wake up call we needed to realise where we can cut back even once the lockdown has lifted? Will it change both our outlook and buying habits, which will in turn impact the fashion industry as we demand sustainability over fast fashion? Who knows what the future holds, but as far as the fashion industry goes, one thing is for sure, it will, as it has always done in times past, evolve.

Christian Dior - A brighter outlook post war.

BRIGHTER DAYS AHEAd

During times of pain, beauty emerges and with that comes hope. Let’s not forget that out of the war came Christian Dior. Quickly garnering himself the reputation as one the most prominent courtiers of the twentieth century. His first collection, which he showed in Paris during a fashion show in 1947 marked a new era.

Dior was the first designer to allow photographers in to capture the show. It was another step in the evolution of the runway show, marking how we publicize shows to this day and a massive shift creatively from the severe clothes and uniforms worn during that time. His collection was symbolic of a new, brighter day. As a result, the editor during that time for Harper’s Bazaar, Camel Snow, called the collection, “The New Look” as Dior embraced the most feminine silhouette, full bodied skirts and a cinched in waist. A silhouette that has become synonymous with the brand even today. It was more than a collection; it was a new way of life. A re-birth. What will emerge from this pandemic remains to be seen, but as history has proved, we will continue, we will move forward and we will emerge stronger than before.

Christian Dior, "The New Look"

Christian Dior Couture SS11

Here’s how to help those affected by the coronavirus pandemic via CNBC

In the United States, Lunchboxes for Love set up by DK's Donuts Founder, Mayly Tao is providing lunches for healthcare workers. Click to visit their instagram for more information and ways to donate.

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WHEN OUR WORLD IS TURNED UPSIDE DOWN...

4/10/2020

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Q AND A WITH PSYCHOLOGIST ANN FAN

Stacy Fan with mum and psychologist Ann Fan

Whenever my world is turned upside down, one voice that can comfort me is my mum. Despite the fact that she lives in England and I’m in America, she’s just one call away and she’s great at calming me down. It just so happens that my mum, Ann Fan, is also a practicing psychologist for over twenty years, so in addition to being there as my mum, she can also help me in practical ways when it comes to managing stress. Recently, mine and everyone else’s life the world over changed. This time, I called my mum, not only to talk about the pandemic we are going through, but to also ask her to work with me on an article that would hopefully help anyone who was feeling anxious, depressed, confused or stressed during this time.

Ann Fan is a cognitive behavioural therapist with the following qualifications: LL.B (Hons); (B.A. (Hons) (in psychology); MSc (health psychology); PDip (in cognitive behavioural therapy); accredited cognitive behavioural therapist with the BABCP (British Association for Behavioural and Cognitive Psychotherapies). Here I ask her what we can do to take care of ourselves, handle the anxiety we might be experiencing and how to get used to our ‘new normal’.

But before we begin, let’s start at the beginning. A few weeks ago, the world as we know it changed. We’d heard about the Coronavirus back in December 2019 when we saw the news and were told that China, more specifically Wuhan, had been hit with the virus. China responded and were going into lockdown. Residents were only allowed out to do grocery shopping, having their temperatures checked as they came in and out of the store. They had to give their phone number in case someone later became infected, so those recording it could track everyone who had been in contact with that person. It sounded awful, some of us had friends and family who were being affected, but it felt far away. We sympathized but we didn’t know.

Fast forward a few months. Europe is hugely hit with the virus, America begins shutting down flights, Europe included, U.K and Ireland were exempt. It continues to get worse, U.K and Ireland are now included in the ban and Italy is drowning in the number of cases. America (we don’t know it yet) won’t be far behind. As I write this, the U.S has overtaken both China and Italy with the number of people infected with the virus. I’m now writing this from my home in Los Angeles, as we too are under order for ‘Shelter In’. The 16th of March was the day all restaurants stopped dine-in; gyms, theatres and shopping malls closed. Today, all schools except a few with children of parents working on the frontline, (the true heroes today, doctors, nurses, hospital cleaners, supermarket staff, anyone working every day, risking their own health to enable us to live, to eat, to survive) are closed.

Friday April 3rd at rush hour on Hollywood Blvd

So how are we all handling it? It’s been a rollercoaster of emotions. Many people all over the world have lost their jobs, small businesses are going under and those who have been able to keep their jobs are likely now doing work from home (WFH), which may have before sounded like a dream, but can in actuality be desperately lonely, especially in these days of social distancing and Shelter In place. It’s particularly hard for those living on their own.

For those with kids, it adds a huge challenge, trying to keep young children amused at home, toddlers with boundless amounts of energy, to older kids whose parents are now having to home school their children. That’s right, parents overnight have had to become manager of their own work headquarters and head teacher of their own schools. All the while trying to explain to their children what on earth is going on whilst still trying to wrap their heads around it themselves.

We normally have stay at home parents, we have working parents, and we have teachers, for a reason. It’s not humanly possible for one or even two parents to achieve all of the above. And with no definitive date of end in sight, anxiety and emotions are going into overdrive. So how are we meant to deal with all of this?

It’s going to be a rough time for all of us as we adjust to our new situation. However there are some coping mechanisms we can undertake to manage expectations, and help deal with our own anxiety and mental health during this time.

Stacy Fan: So many people are experiencing a lot of confusion, loneliness, anxiety and depression during this unprecedented time. Can you help us understand some of the feelings that we might be going through?

Ann Fan: Normally we are very fortunate to have the freedom to travel where we want, whether that’s at home or abroad; we’re able to leave our homes at any time of the day or night for pretty much anything we want to do; and weekends are usually about socializing, going to parties and restaurants to meet with friends and loved-ones. Suddenly that has all been taken away; our lifestyles have had to change almost overnight. It’s a shock and has required a massive adaption. In addition, many people’s long-term plans of what they were going to do or achieve this year have had to be cancelled or re-arranged. Examples are weddings, or a long-planned and looked forward to holiday, or celebrating a milestone birthday or anniversary with friends and family. When these are unable to go ahead this can leave feelings of extreme disappointment, which at worst can lead to feelings of depression. A knock on from this are the potential financial implications, and the very real possibility that people may not be able to keep their jobs because businesses are being affected so badly, leading to anxiety and depression.

SF: What are some of the things we can do each day to bring ourselves a sense of normality and to keep ourselves motivated during this time?

AF: Having a routine is important. If you’re working from home this is probably easier because you know what you’re required to do during the day. However, if you’re at home with no work it can lead to a sense of the day being pointless and each day like ground hog day. The first thing that’s important is to get dressed! Don’t sit around in your pyjamas, but put on some comfortable day clothes. Try to keep up your normal self-care routine, such as showering and washing your hair, putting make-up on. These are all important for our sense of self-worth. Have a list of what you want to achieve that day – that closet you’ve been meaning for months to tidy, now’s your opportunity! If you’re able to go out for a walk, do so. Perhaps you can have a regular time-slot where you FaceTime with family. I have heard where people are taking part in on-line quizzes and games and arranging coffee mornings or cocktail evenings shared over the net. If you’re a couple who normally have a regular “date night”, continue to have these, such as cooking a special meal, having some wine and candlelight. Or having a regular movie night. If as a couple you don’t usually do these things, now might be a good time to introduce them! If your finances allow, an occasional on-line purchase of a new item of clothing or jewelery can lift the spirits. And don’t watch too much of the news about what’s going on – stay informed but don’t become over-saturated and over-whelmed by it.

Try to keep up your normal self-care routine, such as showering and washing your hair, putting make-up on. These are all important for our sense of self-worth.

SF: What advice do you have for anyone experiencing anxiety during this time? Thinking about what is going on around us universally can be all consuming, how can we try and manage it?

AF: It’s important to remember that anxiety is a normal part of life – most of us experience it at some level for numerous reasons. Anxiety can cause a number of physical reactions such as increased heart rate, shortness of breath, sweating and trembling. This in turn can lead to the individual becoming even more anxious, perhaps even having a panic attack, when people often think they’re having a heart attack. If you’re experiencing physical symptoms, try and control your breathing so you’re not over-breathing, which leads to feeling faint. You can also try “Progressive muscle relaxation”. If your thoughts are really anxious thoughts, a basic cognitive behavioural therapy (CBT) technique is to do some “thought challenging”. This involves identifying what your triggers are for the anxious (or unhelpful) thoughts, what the specific thought is and then find a more balanced, (helpful) thought to counteract it. In the current situation a typical thought might be “I’m going to catch the virus, get sick, and have to go to hospital”. A more helpful, balanced thought might be “I’m at home, I’m doing everything I have been asked in order to keep safe, I’m keeping myself and my family healthy”.

SF: For those who already suffer from OCD (obsessive compulsive disorder), this could be an unbearably challenging time. What tips can you give those struggling to help control it and keep it in check?

AF: This is a particularly challenging time for people who have OCD particularly if it’s regarding germs and contamination fears. Similarly for people with health anxiety, who may be experiencing heightened worry about their health because of the fear of catching the virus. As OCD and health anxiety are both an anxiety disorder, some simple self- help procedures for mild OCD and health anxiety would again be using some of the thought challenging techniques detailed above. Some examples of questions you can ask yourself to help allay your anxiety are: “Is there any evidence for this thought?; is there any evidence against it?; what would I say to a friend who had this thought?; what would a friend say to me about it?; how can I test this thought to show that it’s false”. There are a number of good cognitive behavioural books that can help with both OCD and health anxiety. People who have OCD or health anxiety which is so severe that it affects their normal quality of life should seek the help of a therapist.

SF: For those who are struggling with social distancing and battling loneliness and / or depression, what can they do to help themselves during this time?

AF: We’re very fortunate to have access to technology which enables us to stay in touch with each other. Use this to its full advantage. Enlist a good friend to be your “buddy” at this time so that you can support each other by phoning or using other methods to tell each other how you’re feeling that day. It’s important to remember when you’re having a bad day, that tomorrow is another day when things may look and feel brighter. Reconnect with people you may have lost touch with; or reach out to your neighbour to see if you can help out with practical things, such as shopping, or just simply to check in on how they are. Altruism is great for giving a sense of purpose and well-being.

Perhaps you can have a regular time-slot where you FaceTime with family. I have heard where people are taking part in on-line quizzes and games and arranging coffee mornings or cocktail evenings shared over the net.

SF: Do you have any advice to help us not become overwhelmed with the situation and worrying about the future as we overcome this pandemic?

AF: None of us ever know what the future holds, even in normal times. Worrying about the future never solves anything, however planning for the future can be helpful. Have you had to cancel plans? - then think of how or when you might be able to put these plans in place again. Plan what activities you’re going to do when you’re allowed social interaction again so you’ve got something to look forward to. Communication is always helpful, talk about your feelings with your partner, friend, mother, father. Everyone is in this together so we can support each other to get through it.

SF: Are there any relaxation exercise we can do to help anxiety during this time?

AF: Many people find Mindfulness to be very helpful. There’s a lot of information on websites about it. There’s a particular exercise called “Leaves on a Stream” (which you can find on-line) which helps relax the mind and dissipates worry. Yoga is also good for physical and mental relaxation. There are lots of apps that can help. There’s one called “Calm” which a lot of people find helpful for relaxation.

The Calm App can be a helpful resource.

SF: For couples who are perhaps only used to seeing each other in the morning and for a few hours at night, switching to seeing them almost 24/7 can be an adjustment, even if the relationship or marriage is good! Do you have any tips for couples to help them keep boundaries?

AF: Having “me time” (time to yourself) is always important, but never more so when you might be staying at home with the same people for an unprecedented amount of time. If you’re able to, have time alone in a separate room. You could listen to music, read, make a phone call to a friend. If the government rules are that you’re allowed out for exercise, perhaps take walks separately. If you and your partner have children, divide the day up so that each of you have time away from looking after the children so you can pursue a solitary pursuit or interest, such as the ones listed above, so that you will feel refreshed to go back and able to either join in the fun as a family or take over the care of children so your partner can have their alone time.

SF: I think one of the most difficult things for people is that we haven’t been given an end date for our current situation. What are some of the things we can do daily to help with anxiety and that lack of knowing when this might end?

AF: With any form of anxiety or depression it is about taking it one day at a time. What you need to remind yourself is that you are being asked to stay at home to keep yourselves and others safe from this terrible disease. If you are able to look on this enforced period at home as an opportunity rather than a problem it will help. For example, have you always wanted to learn a foreign language, learn about a particular subject, learn a new skill, read that stack of books you’ve been meaning to get through? Now’s your opportunity! We’re very fortunate that we have the technology which gives us ways of keeping in touch and learning on-line.

If you’re able to, have time alone in a separate room. You could listen to music, read, make a phone call to a friend.

SF: Do you have any tips to help those who are struggling to sleep?

AF: There are a number of things that can help. 1. If you are having difficulty sleeping it’s often because when we go to bed and it’s quiet our mind starts thinking about all the things that have happened during the day, what we’ve got to do the next day, what bills we have to pay, even what we’re going to cook the next day! What I recommend to my patients who find they worry when they get to bed is to set aside some “worry time” during the day. This involves sitting calmly and listing the things that are troubling them or occupying their mind. Then write possible solutions and how they are going to be achieved. Don’t do this too close to bed-time or it may still be on your mind. 2. One thing that has been proven to keep the mind active when we go to bed is if we’ve had “screen time” just before we settle down. This activates the mind and brain, so put your phone/laptop etc. away at least half an hour before going to bed. And make sure that you don’t check your phone during the night. 3. One other tip is to do something that you find particularly relaxing such as meditation, listening to calming music or having a relaxing bath. 4. Something that is also well known to keep people awake is caffeine so avoid stimulants before bed. Some people find that chamomile tea is relaxing, or the smell of lavender on the pillow.

SF: What are some of the services (in the UK) available for those who might be struggling at the moment?

AF: One of the good things to come out of this current situation is how people have stepped up to help each other. The community spirit in most areas has been remarkable. For example, the UK government appealed for 250,000 volunteers to come forward to help the NHS (National Health Service). That target was met within 24 hours and a total of 750,000 have now volunteered to help with such things as delivering medicines and driving people to appointments. Psychological services, such as the one I work in and which is part of the NHS, have been asked to adjust the way we are working, so we are doing shift work in order to answer help-lines and carry out assessments for people who phone-in feeling anxious and/or depressed. Business which have had to temporarily close have diversified and are helping with such things as preparing and delivering food for free. In the community individuals have also got together to form groups to collect and deliver food and essentials to the elderly or vulnerable. For those struggling with mental health there are the usual phone services, such as The Samaritans. The list is endless and I feel very proud of how we are coping with this. My sincerest wish is that when we are allowed to get back to our normal way of life, that ‘normal’ will be different – I hope that we are all able to appreciate what we have and each other more. Stay safe everyone!

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Michael Kors FW20

2/14/2020

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Michael Kors knows how to put on a show, whether it’s a huge vibrant runway spectacle or a more grounded one, Kors knows how to move us. This FW20 Kors opened the show with Orville Park performing acoustic guitar as his collection made its way down the runway. The wooden space matched perfectly with his warm and luxe collection.

Kors has become somewhat of a U.S institution and it’s not hard to see why. We know what we are going to get from Kors. His unapologetic love of sportswear, but once again elevated to give it the true look of luxury all at once. Kors knows what America wants and he is there to give it to them with a splash of glamour.

This collection Kors is both looking back, but designing in a way that is most definitely looking to the future. This is reflected most clearly in the orange striped coat, worn on Naomi Campbell 21 years ago, and then slightly updated to be worn on Kaia Gerber.

That’s the genius of Kors, we look back but we also are moving forward. A nod to Kors’ move into sustainability, and pushing for the trend of re-wearing pieces. In a time of being conscious of what an impact fashion is having on the environment Kors is showing us that good investment pieces stand the test of time, just as Kors himself has, as next year we see him celebrating his 40th anniversary of the brand.

His latest collection is without doubt classic timeless pieces that won’t look out of place another 21 years from now. Outerwear really stole the show, with classic and beautifully created capes, a shearling coat as well as super-oversized knits, and matching scarves that doubled up as a coat, ponchos and sharp tailoring, and the celebration of the boot also ran throughout. From the flat riding boot and over the knee wellies for the country, to the stacked heel made for the city. Accessories, crossbody satchels and messenger bags insured we could be carefree and handsfree.

The FW 20 collection was all about easy, cozy glamour. That balance between country and the big city. More modest hemlines and high necklines kept the looks conservative but still stylishly form-fitted. A stunning knit dress that played around with the look of wrapping a sweater over your shoulders, perfect for the country club and paired with tan knee-high riding boots. Easy to wear pieces that were given structure with belts worn over dresses and capes. Skirts were knit and fringe blanket style, dresses were long and loose in form.

This relaxed vibe carried on through to evening wear, loose in form, they carried a cool-easy breezy feel. Dresses paired with a high neck sweater and knee high boot ensured an elegant yet care-free feel to them.

The nod to sustainability also carried on through to his eveningwear, with his sequin dress, one of which Kors made using recycled materials whilst recycled plastic bottles were used to create the sequins adorned on the dress.

Menswear pieces lent into the growing trend of his and hers looks. Complimenting the womenswear collection with their muted colours and relaxed fit. A black cape and riding boots, as well as the shearling coat were offered in both the men’s and womenswear collection. Whilst a grey oversized coat and turtleneck black jumper and a more relaxed fit trouser ensured the his and hers pieces matched the vibe accordingly. Also playing with the country-city balance, a tan puffer coat that with matching shirt and complimenting trousers.

Blending the new with the resurrected, a move into sustainability and a reference back to his previous shows, Kors seemed to have his 40th Anniversary as a point of inspiration and celebration, the result? A show of nostalgia, ease a little utilitarian edge, and a whole lot of easy glamour.

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EAST MEETS WEST IN TADASHI SHOJI'S FW20 COLLECTION

2/6/2020

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On February 6th, 2020 Tadashi Shoji presented his FW 2020 collection in New York. The inspiration, Mongolia, with its fabled empire and extraordinary past. A place where tales of many Dynasties originated. Spanning centuries it’s where East meets West, filled with intrigue, a legacy that at times is larger than life and it’s this spirit that can be seen throughout the collection.

The inspiration can be seen with Mongolia’s ancestral roots of spirited beauty of the Mongolian steppes. It’s this point of reference we can see weaving its way through the collection in the nomadic outwear, fur lined coats and robe inspired wraps with sashed waists with exquisite luxe patterned textiles. Also seen in the collection, feminine cover-ups that blend faux fur with delicate sequin accents and metallic brocades. Balancing perfectly ornate pieces that are both intricate in design but functional, it’s occasion wear meets functionality.

The color story is influenced by gers, felt-tent homes with their brightly painted doors, interiors with colorful tapestries, and floors sumptuously decorated with rugs, that are peony-patterned embroideries and multi-stitch geometric motifs.

One of the largest empires ever known was the Mongolian Empire, and it saw unprecedented transformation. Bringing together the East and West by opening trade routes which created an exchange of goods and created an influence through each other’s cultures. It was during this time Buddhist monks traveled with merchant caravans in this age of advancement. It’s this influence that can be seen in the draping of the monks’ outer robes that is reflected in Shoji’s one-shouldered silhouettes with necklines that are asymmetric, feminine and bare.

As is synonymous with Shoji’s stunning feminine design aesthetic, his influneces aren’t taken literally but interpreted in his trademark sexy yet elegant pieces. The traditional nomadically-layered looks are deconstructed, the result is pieces larger in volume. The inspiration of a gem and mineral-palette is brought together with silhouettes that are sculpted and supple or tight to the body but full in shape. There are voluminous pieces such as the bubble-hemmed dresses and gowns with pointed shoulder detailing and gigot-esque sleeves, wide at the top and narrower at the bottom. Elegant portrait collars draws attention to the most feminine part of a woman’s neckline and cinched in belted waist paired with an organza jacquard evening coat goes to emphasize the coat’s full-skirted shape to full effect. A taffeta opera coat solidifies the stunningly rich collection with its sweeping cut and voluminous fit.

Drawing on the mythical rich achievements of the Mongolian Empire, this collection went to great depths of respecting and reflecting the incredible history of the Empire that left the world forever touched by its wonderous past.

Makeup and beauty for the Tadashi Shoji Fall/Winter show was provided by the Honest Beauty and Orcé teams and led by makeup artist Daniel Martin, hair led by hair stylist Kevin Ryan for R Session Pro Tools, nail lacquer and design by Lux K on behalf of Pear Nova and skin care prep by Tatcha.

Models wore undergarments by Commando, jewelry by Sequin and footwear by Nina Shoes.

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RUTH CARTER X HM COLLECTION

2/6/2020

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Last Saturday I had the honor of interviewing Ruth Carter about her latest movie, Dolemite Is My Name. We also touched upon Black Panther, the movie that saw her make history by becoming the first African American to win an Oscar for best costume designer.

Now Ruth Carter, who made the announcement during Black History Month, is making her designing magic available to the masses with the launch of her collaboration with H&M . The capsule collection which will be focused on 80s inspired streetwear includes t-shirts, hoodies, as well as bucket hats.

Carter said, “This Black History Month I’m super excited to announce my collaboration with @hm. With the accessibility of H&M I intend to spread some love and inspiration to all who want to express themselves creatively. All the RUTHLESS ones, in pursuit of ART and TRUTH, like I’ve been with costumes, will find representation here.

This is for YOU.
I’m asking you to
TRUST YOUR VOICE!
SPEAK your TRUTH!
BE your TRUTH!
And, THAT’S the TRUTH Ruth!

Carter’s Friend, TJ walker’s brand, Cross Colours can be seen as a reference point. However Carter has found inspiration from historical significance as well, as she sought The Black Liberation flag as a point of reference. The flag, Created by the Universal Negro Improvement Association and African Communities League in 1920 can be seen as a recurring feature on the designs. Growing up Carter was surrounded by family members who would wear black, red and green, as they spoke through fashion as a way of declaring their empowerment and freedom.

This inspiration can be seen in each piece of the collection. With powerful words such as “Truth”, serve as a reminder of the heart of the collection. The adversity and racism Carter has faced and the walls she has knocked down along the way.

As with designing the costumes for Dolemite Is My Name, when Carter told me, “I just wanted to like the clothes”, this was obviously just as important for this collection, but as well as liking them, she wanted them to be a reminder of the struggles, truth and to serve as a reminder to “Trust your voice”.

With this collection Carter is breaking records once again. H&M have previously collaborated with a string of high profile designers including Alexander Wang, Karl Lagerfeld and Versace to name just a few, however this is the first time the Swedish brand has collaborated with a costume designer. During our previous interview I asked Carter if she felt there had been a shift, embracing designers who are minorities and she said, “Yes, it’s slow though.” Adding, “We have a responsibility to the change as much as the change has a responsibility.” True to her word, Carter is certainly taking on that responsibility as she once again creates another first and in doing so, hopefully paving the way for others to follow.

The Ruth Carter x HM collection launches on February 13th online and in select stores in the US.
For more information visit www.hm.com

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THE 28TH ART OF MOTION PICTURE COSTUME DESIGN EXHIBITION AT FIDM Museum AND INTERVIEW WITH Ruth Carter

2/3/2020

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Los Angeles, arguably the entertainment capital of the world, is having its biggest event of the year on Sunday February 9th 2020, The 92nd Academy Awards, The Oscars®, in which we celebrate the biggest movies of 2019.

Ahead of the incredible night of glitz and glamour comes the opening of FIDM Museum’s exhibit, the 28th Annual presentation of the “Art of Motion Costume Design”. Celebrating the extraordinary creativity of costume designers for their work in films from last year. The FIDM exhibit features over 100 costumes from 30 films including all 5 of this year’s Academy Award nominees. Open to the public for free, beginning Tuesday February 4th until March 21st 2020.

The exhibition, which is the only one of its kind in the world, that pays tribute every year to the genius costume designers for film, dedicating the FIDM museum from the months of February until March, to the outstanding costumes and Oscar® Nominated designs. The exhibition illustrates the undeniably integral part that costuming plays in creating the movies we’ve been watching all year and enlightens movie fans on some of the process, as they allow visitors of the exhibit to get up close to the breathtaking costumes.

28th Annual presentation of the Art of Motion Costume Design at FIDM Museum

I had the honour of being able to preview the exhibit on Saturday 1st February at FIDM Museum as they once again celebrated the important role of costuming in movies, transforming actors into the characters we see on screen, from fictional characters brought to life, to re-creating real life figures such as Rudy Ray Moor and Dolemite, the fictional character Moor created, for both his standup and movie of the same name.

28th Annual presentation of the Art of Motion Costume Design at FIDM Museum opening night.

I had the opportunity to interview Ruth Carter, the amazing costume designer for Dolemite Is My Name, at the event. Carter made history when she became the first African American to win an Academy Award for Best Costume Designer (for Black Panther ). Here we discuss how she created the incredible looks for Dolemite Is My Name, touch upon her work on Black Panther and pushing for diverse talent in the industry.

Stacy Fan attending the FIDM Exhibition ahead of interviewing Ruth Carter

Stacy Fan interviewing Ruth Carter

Stacy Fan: Costuming is always such an important part of any movie, but they really were integral to this movie as we see Eddie Murphy transforming into Dolemite at the beginning of the movie.

Rudy Ray Moore created Dolemite to be so extravagant with his costuming to match his huge persona. How did you manage to keep both the character of Rudy Ray Moore and Dolemite grounded, whilst still pushing the costuming to that exaggerated level?

Ruth Carter: I think when you know these kinds of people, they create these kind of personas for themselves and it’s manifested in the way they present themselves and what they wear and you know they like it and that they are serious about it and they are entertainers and they are creative.

It takes a lot of creativity to put these looks together and they usually do it themselves and I kind of just wanted to honor that spirit of creativity and proclaiming who you are, so different than the rest. And it was important that we didn’t laugh at it but that we cheered it on. Because it was about believing in yourself 1000 percent against all odds. So that was the challenge, because you can easily go way too far when the actors take on their characters so I just wanted to like the clothes; whether they were broad and big and pimp style, I like to call it urban dandy, I just really wanted to like the clothes.

"Dolemite Is My Name" costumes by Ruth Carter

SF: Eddie Murphy spends a lot of time on stage performing as the character of Dolemite.
How did you balance keeping the clothes and particularly the shoes comfortable for Eddie Murphy to perform in whilst still staying true to his larger than life looks?

RC: Yes, that was a challenge, you know having a man in platform shoes everyday! I really felt bad honestly, because some of the shoes were amazing, but he had to wear them, he was trying. Finally I made a pair of platform shoes out of tennis shoes. I just put the heel on a pair of tennis shoes and he was so comfortable. He was so happy! That didn’t happen till way down the line! It was a process to get there!

SF: You only had 6 weeks of prep time. How did you manage to do everything in such a short period of time?

RC: Yes, we prepped in 6 weeks so it was fast and there were about 75 made to order looks for Eddie. Just in that amount of time you had to go right to the source and if the fabric had the texture you were looking for, but not the color, we dyed it. We didn’t have time to look for another fabric, especially with that double-knit polyester, it’s actually like a relic, it’s hard to find and so we did a lot of dying and putting things on people’s tables all over Los Angeles. We had almost every tailor in LA that I know of working on our stuff.

SF: It’s incredible that this movie was your 5th time working with Eddie Murphy, and that you have your sixth movie together, Coming 2 Americaout later this year, how has your creative relationship evolved with him over time?

RC: You know I just really like him as a person and so I think that helps our creativity because we are very comfortable around each other. I can go into his personal areas like his dressing trailer and you know he is comfortable and for a person like Eddie who prepares, prepares, prepares he likes to have his private space, it’s nice to be invited in because you can get a lot done. I think that has really strengthened our relationship because I’m allowed to do what I’ve got to do. I’m not waiting forever for someone to say you have the privilege to go in.

SF: Is Eddie Murphy very involved when it comes to having an input with his costumes?

RC: He is not involved with costumes as much as he knows the feeling that he wants to present, so he’ll talk about the story in a way that you know what he’s talking about visually and you can get right to it. But I always share everything with him even though he doesn’t dictate what things should be, I show him sketches, I show him research. I talk about trends of the 70s that we both remember because we’re both about the same age. So that was fun, I’d like that to go on forever! So that’s how we connect.

SF: Another iconic character in this movie is Lady Nancy Reed, Queen Bee, being one of the only women in this movie and an incredible woman at that, who goes from struggling single mother to successful actress. Such an inspiring real-life character. How did you go about creating her costumes that were so powerful and so sexy at the same time and what was it like working with the gorgeous Da’Vine Joy Randolph in this process?

RC: Da’Vine Joy Randolph is like a powerhouse character. She is a powerhouse, so you bring it. When you’re ready to get her done up, you bring it. If you don’t bring it, it’s going to be obvious because she isa powerhouse so you’ve got to dress the powerhouse. You make her bold, you make her big, you make her sexy.

SF: Your incredible work in Black Panther is being shown at the exhibit as well as Dolemite Is My Name. Obviously, Marvel are very hands on when it comes to the vision of their movies, and this was your first ever superhero movie. That must have been incredibly intimidating?

RC: Super intimidating! But I am a good listener. And you only get that information when you listen. And once you get it, you get them, you get what they want, you get how they roll and you can flourish, because you’re going to do your part and bring what you know they don’t know you got! So that’s why I felt I was intimidated, I was super scared, I gave it 200 percent of my being and myself because I knew it was a big project, people were waiting to see it, so I was like, ‘Don’t mess this up. It’s life or death!’

Black Panther costumes featured at the FIDM Exhibition

Finally I have to ask you about The Black Design Collective, I interviewed Angela Dean, Kevan Hall and TJ walker about the incredible work with the foundation and your well- deserved tribute here at FIDM last year. I know you also gave the scholarship from the Black Design Collective to Devert Monet Hickman last year. How important is it to you to see that push for emerging designers, especially minorities in the industry?

RC: I think the more trends change, the more we have to embrace who created them, and who is creating them are diverse groups who are doing it in very ingenious and unusual ways, so we can’t stay the same. It’s not going to down like that.

TJ walker, Ruth Carter and Kevan Hall

SF: Have you seen a growth since the beginning of your career when it comes to embracing that diversity?

RC: Yes, it’s slow though. My whole career we’re still talking about the same thing. So it’s still happening but we have to be a little more assertive too. We have a responsibility to the change as much as the change has a responsibility.

Dolemite Is My Name is available to watch on Netflix now. The costumes featured in the movie are currently on display at the FIDM Museum exhibit as well as costumes from Black Panther.

Academy Award Nominated movies featured in the exhibition:

“The Irishman” By Sandy Powell and Christopher Peterson

“JoJo Rabbit” By Mayes C. Rubeo

“Joker” By Mark Bridges

“Little Women” By Jacqueline Durran

“Once Upon a Time…in Hollywood” By Arianne Phillips

Other movies featured at the Exhibition:

"Dumbo" Costumes: Colleen Atwood

“Queen & Slim” costumes by Shiona Turini

“Captain Marvel” costumes by Sanja Milkovic Hays

“Rocketman” costumes by Julian Day

“Avengers: End Game” costumes by Judianna Makovksy

“Maleficent: Mistress of Evil” costumes by Ellen Mirojnick

“Late Night” costumes by Mitchell Travers

“Downton Abbey” costumes by Anna Robbins

“Harriet” costumes by Paul Tazewell

“Us” costumes by Kym Barrett

“Last Christmas” costumes by Renee Ehrlich Kalfus

“Star Wars: The Rise of Skywalker” costumes by Michael Kaplan

“Hustlers” costumes by Mitchell Travers

“Knives Out” costumes by Jenny Eagan

“Booksmart” costumes by April Napier

“Aladdin” costumes by Michael Wilkinson

“The Laundromat” costumes by Ellen Mirojnick

Photos by Alex J. Berliner/ABImages

For more information on the exhibit visit:

http://fidmmuseum.org

FIDM Museum Address: 919 South Grand Avenue, Suite 250, Los Angeles, California, 90015, United States

With thanks to FIDM Museum

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CHRISTMAS GIFTING GUIDE FOR THE FASHION LOVERS IN YOUR LIFE!

11/23/2019

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If you’re looking for something different to buy this Christmas for your fashionista friends, sisters, mothers (or even yourself) check out some of these incredibly unique designers and their collections, whether it’s bags, jewellery or a beautiful piece of clothing, we’ve got you covered!

APEDE MOD

Most of us have been there, found a standout bag, that looks stunning but when you put it over your shoulder you can already feel the weight of it and that’s before you’ve even put your essential items in there. For founder of Apede Mod, Claudia Lin, it was a problem she'd not only experienced, but wanted to rectify, saying, "It’s hard to find a lightweight bag that is stylish yet functional!" So with Apede Mod, Lin created the solution.

Apede Mod are stunning lightweight bags that don’t compromise on style for practicality, whilst blurring the lines between masculine and feminine. With qualities that are traditionally associated with feminine bags; intricate leather detailing, bright colours and luxury and bringing in features more associated with masculine bags, such as the clean lines and multifunctional compartments, the result? It’s feminine meets masculine, elegance meets utility” say the designer.

With quality being of the utmost of importance to the Lin, “Every fabric, every zipper and every stitch is handpicked and done by true artisans.” For the perfect bag in both design and quality, that you'll be able to wear everyday and years from now, look no further than Apede Mod.

For more information visit

www.apedemod.com

TELL NO LEYES

Looking for a classic and sustainable handbag line? Tell No Leyes is the perfect brand for you. Founder and designer April Paterson was at The Palace of Versailles when she fell in love with the mouldings, so much so that she decided to create a brand that would feature these details on the products in her collection but unusually creating them within the body of the material using leather moulding technology. Paterson has drawn a fine line between minimalist and luxury in her collection that is also sustainable.

100% made in Italy and as the brand doesn’t ship any components to Italy they have kept their carbon footprint low. All the while ensuring each artisan is working in a safe and fairly paid environment. The tannery used is run on solar power and no dye is put back into the local environment. Slow fashion, classic pieces that are timeless, elegant and consciously made makes Tell No Leyes is a brand to keep your eyes on!

For more information visit: www.tellnoleyes.com

KATELYN zHANG

"Katelyn Zhang tells the story of women empowerment through her elegant and comfortable pieces". Zhang, a graduate of Savannah College of Art and Design, Zhang was born in Hang Zhou, China. Her newest collection entitled, “北冥有鲲", is from a famous Ancient Chinese poetry The designer says it's “A Happy Excursion” -“In the northern ocean there is a fish, called the k’un, I do not know how many thousand li in size. This k’un changes into a bird, called the p’eng. Its back is, I do not know how many thousand li in breadth. When it is moved, it flies its wings obscuring the sky like clouds.”

The prints featured in Zhang's collection resemble water and rumble fish whilst the silhouettes used in her designs further tell the story of female empowerment. Creating a dialogue and bringing together the style of the East and West, as well as the Chinese and Western cultures, her collection and talent is truly remarkable.

For more information visit: http://www.katelynzhang.com

ASHLEY CARSON DESIGNS

Ashley Carson learned to make jewelry in a small store in Florida, little did she know then that it would change her life and would see her move from Florida to NY to LA as she launched her own jewelry line.

After taking the jewelry class in Florida, Carson began designing pieces for herself and was amazed by the amount of women who loved her pieces, so much so that they literally bought them straight off of her body! In 2014, Carson moved from Florida to New York and now resides in Los Angeles where she sells her namesake brand, Ashley Carson

Shop Ashley Carson's trendy yet timeless jewellery that celebrities like Hailey Baldwin have been seen wearing as well as pieces that have been featured on the runway at New York and Paris Fashion Week.

For more information visit: www.ashleycarsondesigns.com

POSH TOTTY

Personalised Mixed Gold Mini Russian Ring Necklace

Posh Totty is a very special jewellery company that founder Alice River Crips created in 2004 that focuses on the three elements of personalisation, that being honesty, empowerment and positivity. With their core values revolving around creating meaningful pieces that go against our fast-fashion, consumerist culture by making gorgeous pieces with the emphasis on creating jewellery, “We feel (is) part of a meaningful process. We believe that a purchase should hold significance for our customers, and continue to do so for years to come."

In 2002 and with just $60 in her pocket, Crips moved to Mexico, eventually finding work with a group of local Mayan jewellers. Here she says, “I was taught the basics of jewellery making, which planted the seed for my future career. After nearly two years I finally earned enough money to pay for a flight back home to the UK.” With her new skills of making jewelry and full of inspiration, Posh Totty was born. Creating pieces that are fully customisable with names, dates and birthstones.

Posh Totty even has a collection in partnership with Women for Women, named 'Share A Hug' with proceeds going to the charity. Women for Women are working to support women and children affected by war and conflict.

For more information visit:

www.poshtottydesigns.com

GEORGINA HERRERA

All jewellery by Georgina Herrera

Ring by Georgina Herrera

If you're in the market for statement fine jewellery made with 24 KT gold or sterling silver with gem stones and some with Swarovski, you need to check out Gerogina Herrera. All her pieces carry a flower design symbolic of Herrera’s Mexican heritage. Stunning pieces that are vibrant, yet classic, statement and empowering that represent the designers pride in her culture and her zest for life. Herrera has even created incredible wearable body jewellery such as a beaded vest that is nothing short of a work of art. With such a beautiful array of fine jewellery within her collection, there truly is a piece for everyone.

For more information visit: www.georginaherrera.com

TULIP KURDI

Tulip Kurdi is a beautiful brand that artfully merges high fashion hair accessories and turbans into pieces that can be worn both for special occasions and everyday. With each piece hand folded and wrapped with most pieces shrouded in gems such as sapphire, coral, turquoise, silver and gold.

Stacy Fan wearing Tulip Kurdi head band (pictured with Olivia Palermo)

Rooted in Syrian, Turkish and Kurdish roots, these are evident in the pieces drawing on inspiration from her rich textile legacy of these two cultures.

For more information visit: tulipkurdinewyork.com

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FIDM X BLACK DESIGN COLLECTIVE POP-UP

11/17/2019

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(Left to right) TJ walker, Angela Dean, Kevan Hall: Founders of the Black Design Collective

As a champion of new and emerging designers and as an editor who is so passionate about trying to shed light on them, I constantly see how hard it is to break into the fashion industry. At least from the periphery I witness the struggle. Add being a person of color on top of the everyday challenge’s other designers face and that struggle becomes even harder.

That’s why it’s not only necessary but so important that the incredible Black Design Collective exists. Co-founded by Angela Dean, Kevan Hall and TJ walker, the Black Design Collective is there to help designers of color break into the fashion industry. Offering scholarships as well as real tangible advice to designers, giving them the opportunity to learn more about the logistical steps it takes to break in or to elevate their business to make it even more of a success.

On Saturday 11th November I was invited by FIDM who was hosting the Black Design Collective’s first annual pop-up showcase to meet the three founders as well as some of the emerging designers who are now a part of the Black Design Collective.

(FIDM event photos by Tyler Curtis ABImages)

Stacy Fan at the Black Design Collective Pop-up.

Kevan Hall

I first speak to co-founder and designer, Kevan Hall who has dressed everyone from First Lady Michelle Obama to Charlize Theron and Viola Davis. Hall tells me, “We started this organization for several reasons, we wanted to be able to mentor young design students and not only students but also colleagues who might have questions like, ‘How do I market my collection? How do I take my business to the next level? Where can I find zippers and buttons, where are the good pattern makers?’ So we really came together as a community to support and uplift one another. And secondly, we wanted to start a scholarship fund. We started one to help design students pursue their dreams of being either a fashion designer or a costume designer. So this year we gave a $10,000 scholarship fund to a design student, Devert Monet Hickman, Ruth Carter the costume designer Oscar winner for Black Panther gave him that scholarship back in April. We also are creating a platform for designers to be able to sell their clothing online under the Black Designer Collective banner. So people will be able to shop the homepage and link to the designer’s websites, so that is something that is in the works. And then we do workshops and seminars and things that have to do with funding and financing. We really look at the scope and ask, what is the need of the designer? How can we help them move their business and inform that and expose their talent to the world?”

Kevan continues, “It’s a legacy, what can we do for the next generation of designers to work at a very high level”

Kevan Hall has his own incredible collection that really is about fitting into a woman’s life. Ponte dresses that are both comfortable and keep you looking put together. Taking his woman from the office to the bar with office appropriate dresses that will look just as good for a dinner with friends. Easy to wear pieces that are designed to either be worn from head to toe looks, such as his trouser twin set top / pantsuit perfect for work or as separates at the weekend. Blazers that can be worn over dresses, or over a pair of jeans. Stunning white shirts that can be worn with workwear trousers or for an evening event paired with a ball gown skirt. Silhouettes that represent those who like more of a bodycon style as well as those who are more inclined to a softer more billowy aesthetic. All sizes and all ages are covered.

For more information visit: www.kevanhalldesigns.com

Angela Dean: PRESIDENT AND CO-FOUNDER OF THE BLACK DESIGN COLLECTIVE. FOUNDER OF DEANZIGN / SHAPED BY AN ANGEL

For Dean, whose incredible career in the fashion industry has seen her dress celebrities including Halle Berry, Jada Pinkett Smith and Queen Latifah for the 30th anniversary of “Essense” Magazine, started up the Black Design Collective when she heard Nelson’s Report that African American’s spend 1.2 trillion dollars consuming fashion. Dean felt that they needed to come together as a community to see how she could bring more awareness to black designers, Dean tells me, “I have been in the fashion and entertainment industry for over thirty years, I was the original creator of Madonna’s bullet bra. Gaultier did a rendition of it for the tour but I had done the original and no one ever knew that so I never got the credit for it. Unfortunately if you weren’t able to afford a great publicist, have the money to really get your name out there in the days when I was coming through, they would just take it and not acknowledge you at all because you weren’t of a certain named brand. I just continued to do my work and just continued to add to my body of work. So when I got with everyone and asked them, did you have 1% of that 1.2 trillion, or if they even had even a half a percent of that, and of course everyone’s answer was no, so we started to just become aware that we really needed to come together as a community to bring awareness to the fact that we exist and that we are consuming dollars, especially African American’s, are very stylish people, they wear a lot of amazing clothes, they create their own amazing looks, a lot of that has come from the trenches of us and them being creative. So we should be able to know that they exist so they can have a choice.”

Dean continues, “Ruth Carter is a friend of mine and I had noticed that she had never been recognized for her body of work. She’s got various awards for movies but she hasn’t been recognized for her body of work. I thought that was super important.”

This ignited something in Dean, and she told Kevan that they needed to go to FIDM to see if they would be interested in hosting an event. FIDM jumped on board, and so the pop-up came about, bringing in other designers that represent the history and relevancy to the world. Taking on this mission, Dean tells me she wants to spread it not just in America (starting with Los Angeles and New York), but eventually with the hope of rolling it out globally by 2022. “We want to create generational wealth the way the Ralph Lauren’s have and the Valentino’s have, we deserve to have those opportunities.” Dean’s incredible vision is exemplified in front of me as I see the wonderful designers she has already touched with the Black Design Collective, her vision and her drive to pay it forward.

“Collectively we can do so much more than we can individually” Dean says, “So we can have a bigger voice like we see today. We are able to see all the beautiful work of some of the selected designers and this is just a small portion of it.” FIDM have been a huge supporter as Dean tells me, “We have to thank FIDM because they have been one of our major supporters and sponsors for these types of events and they have just embraced our community and embraced us. Kevan and I are alumni’s and we went to Toni (Tonian Hohberg) the owner and told her what our plight was and she was all in from the beginning.”

TJ Walker, Ruth E. Carter, Devert Monet-Hickman (receiving the Black Design scholarship) Angela Dean and Kevan Hall

Angela Dean THE DESIGNER

As I speak to Dean about her beautiful collection that she has brought to the pop-up today, she tells me just one of the stories she has from her rich career in the industry, that of her and Nat King Cole, “I did her album Unforgettable. I remember sitting in the driveway of her house, sitting in her BMW listening to her CD, I’ll never forget it, of her and her dad singing together.”

Dean continues, “I do a lot of bespoke, but I have also started to do ready-to-wear. I go from evening, to the aesthetic of what I think is important. I am a classic designer but I love beautiful fabrics and clean lines.” However Dean lights up when she tells me about her biggest accomplishment to date, “I have created a shapewear line called Shaped By An Angel.

I created and designed these shapewear designs based on the five most common body types. So they are customized to the various body types. And the panels I’ve put in work to accentuate those various areas that are problem areas and they are compression. So it’s compression shapewear which helps with blood flow, reduces cellulite, our fabric is very high-end, in terms of the fact that it keeps you from having bacteria, keeps you cool and fresh, you can work out in it so they have a lot of various different properties, it just shows the various ways you can transform the body. It has been one of the highlights of my career. This is a passion now for me. I have done the entertainment business, I have done custom work, but there is nothing like changing a woman’s body and mindset instantaneously. You can put on a dress and feel great but if you have got on a great shaper, oh my god, it changes the game. I don’t care how big or how little you are, if you can change their shape you’ve got something special.” Indeed she does.

For more information visit: www.shapedbyanangel.com / www.deanzign.com

TJ WALKER

One of the co-founders of Black Design Collective as well as a FIDM instructor and co-founder (along with Carl Jones) of streetwear brand, Cross Color which is currently celebrating its 30th anniversary with an exhibition at The California African American Museum in Los Angeles has a lot to celebrate. With a celebrity following including the likes of Will Smith, Snoop Dog, Tupac Shakur, Cardi B and Bruno Mars the collection Walker is showing today he tells me, is based upon “The project we did back in the 90s. We started in 1989 and this celebrates our 30th anniversary of the brand. The baseball top is based on the one that Bruno Mars wore on the stage at the Grammys when he performed.”

Walker continues, “We are really excited about (the pop-up) it’s one of our first steps in actually showing people locally that we have local black designers, that are not only making clothes here in Los Angeles but actually located here in Los Angeles. We want to make people aware that we actually have fashion here too. Not just the East Coast and Europe, but here too!”

To find out more visit: www.crosscolours.com
https://www.blackdesigncollective.com

THE DESIGNERS

SERGIO HUDSON

A stunning luxury women’s ready to wear label that is both designed and produced in Los Angeles. With a collection that includes incredible statement pieces as well as and classic wardrobe staples that manage to be both timeless and fashion forward at the same time.

Hero pieces include the tuxedo jumpsuit, as well as their backless little black dress which will look as fitting 50 years from now as it does today. With celebrity fans including Rihanna, Jennifer Lopez, Serena Williams, Kendall Jenner and Amal Clooney.

For more information visit: www.sergiohudson.com

Charles Harbison / HARBISON COLLECTION

A beautiful collection that plays around with the male inspired trend, “Allowing her to occupy the space in a masculine way whilst maintaining her femininity.” This includes stunning outerwear, a skirt that has an apron at the front that doubles up as a skirt in style, playing around with a toughened up feminine silhouette. The collection also explores graphics and color blocking, jackets with leather detailing and art blocking pieces which are now synonymous with the HARBISON brand. A beautifully unique dress that is both structured but lightweight which makes it perfect for warmer climates or even when considering what to pack when traveling. Often dresses with this kind of structure can weigh as much as a coat so it’s refreshing to find a dress that has all the beautiful structure of a thicker dress without that weight.

Harbison still has a lot of fun with his collection, with unique color blocking as well as unexpected texture detailing on some of the pieces including a color block detailed skirt.

For more information visit: www.harbisoncollection.com

GEOFF DURAN

Duran has created a truly unique brand consisting of custom suiting, with impeccably tailored shirts. The idea behind each shirt being, you don’t need a tie to wear one. The detailing on the collar of the shirts as well as detailing throughout the body is giving men far more options than previously offered by menswear brands. Duran noted that the first thing men do when they leave the office and go to a lounge, is take off the tie and undo the collar. To feel more relaxed, yes, but also to look a little more cool. His shirts give a “non-conforming attitude and juxtaposition of tailoring and sportwear”.

This collection is inspired by the French Military uniforms from the 1800’s. The gold chain detailing is inspired by hip-hop; the use of the gold chain was very popular and has helped inform the pieces in Duran’s collection, it also symbolizes the high medals of the high-ranking officials. Another distinguishing feature of the brand are the diamond details on the collar pin on the shirts. Paying homage to the state Duran is from, Arkansol, also known as the unofficial diamond state, (the state flag even features a diamond on it). The three stars represent the three principles of Duran’s brand which are excellence, continuity and society.

Duran’s brand builds meaning to everything that he creates. This collection is called the M5K, which is short for the Mandarin five thousand. The mandarin, collar has Duran’s own take it on it, disproportionate and set with a more casual finish, with no button. Going back full circle as to why Duran created this collection, no tie, required and the button, well it isn’t even there. The M5K informal collection shirt is a tuxedo style made, as with all the shirts, with prima cotton, the purple colors in the inside of each shirt represent passion and the green represent creativity. One of Duran’s favorites, the M5K Super, inspired by medieval movies such as 300, Duran always loved the costumes with the breastplates to protect themselves. So much so that he’s created a shirt that translates that breastplate on to his shirt but on a diagonal to mimic the diamonds, but gives it a superhero feel. Jon magazine featured this shirt in one of their editorials.

I even got a sneak peek at Duran's next collection and if possible, it’s even more stunning than his current. With one knock out shirt that is going to be a limited edition in the collection, Geoff Duran may well become your go to brand if you really want a shirt that’s going to make you stand out from the crowd.

www.geoffduran.com

OKERA BANKS / OTG ESSENTIALS BY OKERA BANKS

Celebrity stylist and designer, Okera Banks saw a need to create a collection of women’s clothing that she simply couldn’t find on the market. She is a busy woman, going from being a mom, a caretaker to her mother, to going on set where she works as a stylist, and may even then have an event to go to in the evening and she needed, required her wardrobe to work hard to get her through each of these situations in her life all the while allowing her to be comfortable and to feel sexy and most importantly do it with ‘swag’. Banks’ collection is here for, “Today’s swaged-out and sophisticated entrepreneurs, fashion conscious trend-setters and travelers on-the-go who want comfort and ease with impeccable style.”

Banks was literally designing for herself and for other women like her as she tells me, “One thing that never dies is comfort. It started with a tube dress, I was like I can’t find a tube dress when I need a tube dress, so I made one, so it happened very organically. I had other designs in me, and people really responded well to it. They were like, can I get that? We are all working women, some are moms, some aren’t but we all have this life that moves and we just sort of forget about ourselves, we wear t-shirts and jeans or workout wear. I mean I love a good pair of sweatpants but they aren’t clothes. How do we hold on to looking chic after life happens?”

Banks found the solution. The pieces in the collection can be mixed up and changed up. Add a pair of pumps to the jumpsuit and throw on one of Banks’ fuchsia pink swag jag or a leather jacket and you’re ready for a night out. Change the same look up with a pair of sandals, pull the bottom of the pantsuit up and you have an outfit ready for the beach. A collection of clothes that works for your life and works for you, but most importantly is comfortable whilst still giving you that swag.

For more information visit: www.otgessentials.com

melena ruth / melena ruth design

Melena Ruth has created a beautiful collection of bags, many of which are made up of tapestry that are made by women in South Africa. Ruth is slowly introducing tapestry from other places in the world. The one that she is introducing first is one from Guatemala. With a selection of clutches, backpacks and work bags.

Her inspiration in starting up her brands was the hand embroidery. Ruth wanted to find a way to give back to the people in Africa. Most of the women there live on under two dollars a day and she thought if she could take what they make it make it into a beautiful piece, then she can share the proceeds of the profits with them, with the main goal Ruth tells me, “Of sending their girls to school, so that’s the story of why I wanted to start it up.”

Model : Kennedy Zimet

Made up of Italian leather, and made in Los Angeles these stunning bags are pieces you can feel good about buying and look beautiful wearing.

For more information visit: http://www.malenaruth.com

BT TAYLOR / BT TAYLOR JEWELRY

Artist, child activist and poet, Taylor came to make jewelry, initially just for himself. It was peaceful for him. However when he was wearing his jewelry people would want to buy it from him, literally buying pieces from him off of his own body! So Taylor created his own collection. His inspiration is indigenous people from around the world. His one of a kind jewelry is hand-crafted using semi-precious gemstones, metals and ethnic beads.

Taylor has been working with incarcerated children for over twenty years, and even now gives jewelry classes to the children that he works with. Taylor tells me that he loves being a part of The Black Design Collective, signing up as soon as he could and learning so much from the workshops that have been made available to him.

WARAIRE BOSWELL / WARAIRE

Jasmine Williams representing the brand at the pop-up

Designer Waraire Boswell

Designer Boswell is primarily known for his suiting, as well as more relaxed pieces. However Boswell’s most current collection, and all those going forward are unisex.

Included in the collection are some PJ suits, some t-shirts, and jackets. The collection balance both comfort and luxury for both men and women. Included in the collection is fine suiting and striking loungewear.

Boswell was inspired by those who aren’t comfortable in suits but didn’t necessarily just want to wear joggers. Standing at 6 foot 7, the designer had a growth spurt from his eleventh year in high school to his senior year and because he couldn’t find clothes that fit, this served as an incentive to start his own brand. Now going on to his seventeenth year as a designer, Boswell’s fans include Jay Z, LeBron James, Kobe Bryant.

For more information visit:

https://waraireboswell.com

With thanks to FIDM and the Black Design Collective.

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"fASHION IS A LANGUAGE OF ITS OWN... LET'S TALK" EURASIAN VOGUE﻿

KEVAN HALL FALL/WINTER 2022 NYFW

What do we know about was planned for this years event?

THIS YEARS THEME

The Hosts:​

who was attending?

A LOOK BACK BEFORE WE LOOK FORWARD 2015-2019

HISTORICAL EVENTS AND FASHION

​A CRISIS : THE FASHION INDUSTRIES RESPONsE

​OUR DAILY LIVES AFFECTED

FASHION SHOWS: THE FUTURE

TIME FOR CHANGE?

THE FUTURE: SUSTAINABILITY

​BRIGHTER DAYS AHEAd

Q AND A WITH PSYCHOLOGIST ANN FAN

APEDE MOD​

TELL NO LEYES​

KATELYN zHANG​

​ASHLEY CARSON DESIGNS

​POSH TOTTY​

GEORGINA HERRERA​

​TULIP KURDI​

​Kevan Hall

Angela Dean: PRESIDENT AND CO-FOUNDER OF THE BLACK DESIGN COLLECTIVE. FOUNDER OF DEANZIGN / SHAPED BY AN ANGEL

Angela Dean THE DESIGNER​

TJ WALKER ​

THE DESIGNERS ​

SERGIO HUDSON​

Charles Harbison / HARBISON COLLECTION

GEOFF DURAN ​

OKERA BANKS / OTG ESSENTIALS BY OKERA BANKS

melena ruth / melena ruth design

BT TAYLOR / BT TAYLOR JEWELRY

WARAIRE BOSWELL / WARAIRE

BySTACY FAN

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"fASHION IS A LANGUAGE OF ITS OWN... LET'S TALK" EURASIAN VOGUE

The Hosts:

A LOOK BACK BEFORE WE LOOK FORWARD
2015-2019

A CRISIS : THE FASHION INDUSTRIES RESPONsE

OUR DAILY LIVES AFFECTED

BRIGHTER DAYS AHEAd

APEDE MOD

TELL NO LEYES

KATELYN zHANG

ASHLEY CARSON DESIGNS

POSH TOTTY

GEORGINA HERRERA

TULIP KURDI

Kevan Hall

Angela Dean THE DESIGNER

TJ WALKER

THE DESIGNERS

SERGIO HUDSON

GEOFF DURAN

By
STACY FAN

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