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"fASHION IS A LANGUAGE OF ITS OWN... LET'S TALK" EURASIAN VOGUE


Iza by Silvia Davila: From Stillness to Structure: A Designer’s Return with Intention

2/10/2026

 
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Stacy Fan wearing gold cuff by Silvia Davila.
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As Valentine’s Day approaches, the season naturally invites reflection on the people we cherish — not just romantic partners, but the longtime creative allies whose work we admire, support, and return to again and again. This year, I wanted to spotlight a designer whose jewelry feels especially fitting as a Valentine’s Day gift: intentional, handcrafted, and made to last.

Over the years I've interviewed Silvia Davila, one of the original designers at Flying Solo who helped, quite literally, build it from the ground up. Due to Covid we hadn't see each other for some time but in March of last year, we met again and I was able to reconnect with her. During a moment when her work — and her perspective — felt quietly powerful. Time has passed since that conversation, but her evolution has only deepened. She's always been a designer that's created with intention, but what she creates now feels even less about trend or immediacy, and more about meaning: pieces that carry weight, story, and permanence — much like the relationships worth celebrating this time of year.

That sensibility is woven throughout her latest chapter, one shaped by patience, reinvention, and a renewed commitment to craft. Her jewelry doesn’t shout; it speaks with confidence. It’s the kind of gift that feels personal — something chosen thoughtfully, meant to be worn often, and kept for years.

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Stacy Fan Interviewing Silvia Davila
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​After years of stillness, rebuilding, and quiet reinvention, Davila emerges with more than a new collection — she returns with clarity, confidence, and a vision shaped by time, cities, and craft.


​I already had a brand — but the real question was how to turn it into a company that could last.
It’s been a long time since we last sat down together, and the reunion feels warm and familiar. In the years between, the world slowed, priorities shifted, and creativity was forced to find new rhythms. For this designer, that pause became a turning point — one that reshaped not only how she works, but why.

“It’s really good to see you again,” Davila says, smiling. “I know!" I reply, "It’s been such a long time.” 

So much has happened since then. Like many creatives, the past few years, came with uncertainty — but also unexpected clarity.

I ask how Davila has been, “I've been very good, actually,” she says. “We had ups and downs during COVID, of course. I think the first couple of years afterward, everyone was just trying to catch up — trying to understand what had changed. But this year feels different. Things have really been moving upward, and I finally feel ready for the next phase.”

While many brands pivoted quickly to digital visibility and Zoom-ready moments during the pandemic, her experience unfolded differently.

“I wasn’t really working during that time,” Davila explains. “Instead, I took on a completely different project. We bought an apartment, and I redesigned it and went through construction during that period. That kept me busy.”

The pause, though unplanned, became essential.

“My jewelry has always been very statement-driven — not necessarily online-friendly. That period forced me to ask bigger questions: How would I survive something like this again? What does longevity really mean for my brand?”

With time suddenly available, she leaned into reading and research — studying business, structure, and strategy.

“As designers, we often know exactly who we are creatively,” Davila reflects. “But that doesn’t mean we’re strong businesspeople. I already had a brand, but I needed to learn how to build a company.”

It’s a challenge many independent designers face: transforming a singular creative vision into something sustainable.

“For the longest time, I did everything myself,” she says. “Now I’m ready to bring people in. Building a team means I finally have space — space to think, to grow, to focus on ideas I never had time for before.”

Despite this evolution, one thing remains unchanged: every piece is still handmade.

“That part is essential to me,” she says simply.


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Iza By Silvia Davila's collection 


With renewed focus came a shift in inspiration. Frequent shows in Paris opened a new visual dialogue between two cities.

“I started thinking about how to connect Paris and New York,” she explains. “Architecture became the bridge — especially Art Deco. There’s so much of it in both places.”

After fashion week, she stayed longer in Paris, wandering the city, photographing buildings, absorbing details. Slowly, those impressions found their way into her work.

“What surprised me most was how people immediately connected to it,” she says. “They’d tell me, ‘Your pieces remind me of Art Deco.’ That’s exactly what I was exploring.”

The result is a collection that feels bold yet intentional — sculptural, but deeply wearable.

“Even when I make large statement pieces, I’m always thinking about weight, balance, and proportion,” she says. “Will it feel good on the body? Will it move with you? Will it work on different people?”


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​Some designs are even convertible, allowing the wearer to shift between bold and understated depending on the moment.

“You can’t always wear something as dramatic as what I’m wearing now,” (Silvia is wearing a stunning large cuff that wraps up much of her forearm) she laughs. “So I like pieces that can transform.”

Materials range from gold-plated brass to silver, with select pieces offered in both. The collection itself is expansive — roughly twenty designs — including earrings, bracelets, and rings that rotate in and out.

“I like to keep things fluid,” she says. “Some pieces stay. Others are truly one of a kind. If something is too intricate or too labor-intensive, I won’t recreate it. That’s part of the beauty.”


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Pricing reflects that balance of craftsmanship and accessibility, ranging from smaller pieces under $200 to larger statement designs reaching the high $300s — shaped by rising material costs and the time each piece demands.

In the end, what stands out most isn’t just the jewelry, but the intention behind it.

“This phase feels more grounded,” she says. “I know who I am as a designer now. I’m not just creating pieces — I’m building something that can last.”

Iza by Silvia Davila 
Iza by Silvia Davila IG

LOVE WINS AT THE SUPER BOWL

2/10/2026

 
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Couple marry during the half time show at The Super Bowl on Sunday 8th February 2026. The bride wearing a Hayley Paige wedding dress, 

What began as a love-filled wedding invitation turned into a fairytale moment when a couple found themselves saying “I do” on one of the world’s biggest stages — Bad Bunny’s Super Bowl 60 halftime show.

The couple exchanged vows during the epic performance on Sunday, Feb. 8, with Bad Bunny even signing their marriage certificate, according to a press release sent to TODAY.com. For the unforgettable moment, the bride wore a white wedding gown by designer Hayley Paige.

Paige later explained how the extraordinary moment came together in a series of Instagram Stories and later on her feed, sharing that the opportunity arrived just weeks before the Super Bowl and under strict secrecy.

“To have a moment like that, and it actually be a real bride, I think made it even more special because the message is, ‘Love wins,’” Paige says.



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Interviewing Paige for her most recent collection: Twice Upon a Time. 
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The gown, called Becoming Jane, is part of Paige’s new Twice Upon a Time collection and can be worn six different ways.

“This one has some really fun interchangeability,” she says. “She has a fitted base, which is lace on lace, kind of this textured, sexy fit. It’s got a slit. Then we build up on the dress so there’s a big overskirt that you can wear, so you can kind of have your cake and eat it too — except it’s have your fitted look and then also a ball gown.” 

The dress can also be customized to have half sleeves and also features a detachable bolero.

“It’s a fun shapeshifter of a dress,” Paige says. “She wore it just with the base and the slit and then had a beautiful, matching veil with it to show off her curves — and she looked fabulous.”

Paige adds that the dress leans into “sexiness” and “feminine energy,” while featuring a stretchy lining that made it easy to move in — an especially important detail for a halftime show.



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The Stunning dress from Hayley Paige's latest collection- Becoming Jane 

Paige first learned about the opportunity through a friend of her sister, Megan Gutman, a producer who has worked on several Super Bowl commercials.

“Her really good friend Joleen Garnett is a stylist, and she had texted me maybe two weeks ago and said, ‘I need a dress for a really important event,’” Paige explains. “She basically said, ‘Could you send me a bunch of options? Please don’t share it with anyone, but it is for the Super Bowl halftime show.’”

While Paige was thrilled at the possibility of one of her designs appearing during the show, she tried not to get her hopes up, assuming Garnett was pulling looks from multiple designers. At first, she thought the gown might be for a backup dancer — until she learned it was for an actual bride.

Paige watched the halftime show from home with her fiancé, a friend and her dogs, Paige says the moment felt deeply full circle moment for herself as well as her brand. 

“I’ve been through this crazy legal battle where I lost my name and then got it all back in bankruptcy court,” she says. “I’ve been on this journey. I actually rebranded and relaunched Hayley Paige just six months ago.” 

I interviewed Paige when her comeback collection launched at the end of last year, marking her return to the bridal world after a lengthy legal battle to regain the rights to her own name.

After the show, Paige reached out to the bride to share her congratulations.

“I contacted her to tell her she looked beautiful — and that she can keep the dress,” she says. Indeed, Love always wins. 

​Click here to read my interview with Paige...! 

For more information on Hayley Paige visit her
Website: Hayley Paige
Instagram Hayley Paige IG


THE RETURN OF HAYLEY PAIGE

11/5/2025

 
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Wedding dress designer, Hayley Paige with Lovella Bridal owner, Nayri Kalayjian and her team. 

It’s a Sunday afternoon and LA’s version of a fall day, with its milder rays of sun falling down over Glendale. I’m here to visit the stunning Bridal store, Lovella Bridal to interview wedding dress designer, Hayley Paige and preview her new collection. However this isn’t just a regular preview of a designer’s collection. This is the welcoming back of THE Hayley Paige. You may well know her as one of the most prolific designers on popular show, Say Yes To the Dress. Creating dream dresses for brides on the hit TV show for a number of years.
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Stacy Fan previewing the new Hayley Paige collection 

However despite all her success, Paige has had a battle on her hands for the last few years. If you aren’t familiar with Paige’s story, Paige is the Taylor Swift of the wedding world. She is a designer who has spent the last few years fighting to get her own name back, win the right to design wedding dresses again and in fact, was fighting just to identify herself as Hayley Paige in a public setting. 
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The rainbow wedding dress that has become synonymous with Hayley Paige

It all started in 2011, when Paige, eager to start her career, landed her dream job. She was offered a seemingly incredible opportunity by JLM Couture to design wedding dresses for them at the age of 25. However Paige signed a contract that gave her former employer the right to trademark her name. After a complex legal dispute over intellectual property rights, she was legally enforced to hand over her personal social media accounts and forbidden from using her birth name in any business or commerce.

She was told she could not say in public, that she was designer, Hayley Paige. She lost the right to her designs, and all the sketches. Not only that, she was placed under an unpaid non-compete clause that stopped her designing wedding dresses, even under a different name. The Hayley Paige brand still existed, with dresses being designed by another designer, however she no longer had any affiliation with the brand nor gained any commission from the dresses, even those previously designed by herself. 
 
Despite all this, Paige didn’t walk away from designing, instead pivoted and began creating shoes, under the brand name, “She is Cheval.” Cheval, French for horse, choosing this word as it represented fortitude and strength. Something Paige has shown she has in spades. Her brides showed up in force, sticking by her, purchasing her shoes and flooding JLM’s social media with unicorn emojis representing Paige and her beautiful designs. 
 
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Fast forward to May 2024, a settlement was reached and Paige paid $263,000 to regain ownership of her name. So here we are today, this day reflecting not just a new collection, but a moment of triumph. A moment of recognition for Paige’s tenacity to keep going and for her fans who stood by her when her world came crashing down, to meet her, to celebrate her.
 
As I step into the store there is a flurry of excitement, Paige’s fans, new brides as well as her OG brides sit waiting for her to arrive. 
 
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Fans of Hayley Paige wearing the shoes she designed with brand She is Cheval
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The store, already beautiful, is even more sparkly today, decked out with small tables holding champagne, and three mannequins at the end of the store are dressed in Paige’s dresses. One, the rainbow ‘unicorn dress’ that has become so synonymous with the designer. The other a pale blue that is ethereal, airy, dreamlike and the third, a stunning tiered white dress with flowers that almost look like butterflies have landed on the dress. The dresses look alive, an individual fairytale, their stories waiting to be told.

​Behind is a rail containing the rest of her collection, all unique stand out individual dresses, all telling their own story. When you look at them you are lost for a moment. Stepping into the beautiful world of design that is Hayley Paige. 
 
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Behind is a table with two large ornate wedding cakes, created by talented cake designer, Kimberly of The Butterend, with plates of cookies and mini wedding cakes. Cakes that have been made in the same color scheme as Paige’s famous unicorn rainbow dress. And the cookies? Images of Paige’s gorgeous dog. Exquisite flowers by Avant Garden are thoughtfully placed, and represent the same colour palette of Paige's rainbow dress. 

It's a piece of Hayley's world, and a celebration of what she's created. A few moments later, Paige walks through the door. Dressed in the cutest black skirt suit, with the words, “All the feels” sewn on the shoulders, with a pair of western boots, and wearing bright lipstick. All the brides and fans go to hug Paige. Warm embraces and even tears shed. It’s a home coming. A moment of pure triumph and we’re all here for it. All the feels, indeed.
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Cookies and cakes by The Butterend 

​As Paige meets with her friends, fans and supporters, I chat to Nayri, the beautiful owner of Lovella Bridal. She expresses just what a joy it is to have Paige back, how happy she is to have her collection in her store and just how much this means. Paige has set president for new cases going forward. It really is a moment for not just the wedding industry but designers as a whole.

The impact this has had is certainly not lost on Paige and in response to what happened to her, Paige has created a non-profit named, A Girl You Might Know Foundation, it’s mission to help young female creatives protect themselves when signing contracts, when starting out with their own business or joining another, helping with legal resources and advocacy. Not only is Paige speaking about this to raise awareness so others don't find themselves in the same position, but also putting things in place to help other artists to not have the same experience by providing support though the foundation. 


Nayri walks me over and introduces me officially to Paige. Paige welcomes me warmly, “Thank you so much for waiting. You’re so sweet, I really appreciate it. It’s so nice to meet you” Big smile, her energy is infectious. Not even a glimmer of jadedness of what was taken from the designer for the past few years. It really is impressive just how Paige has kept her sparkle and refused to let this be the end of her story. 
 
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 Lovella Bridal store owner, Nayri Kalayjian and bridal content creator Liz Nguyen (@Aisleaccess) 
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Hayley Paige and Stacy Fan

Paige’s story is certainly a fascinating, not just because of her case, but her career. Her innate love of design that started when she was just seven years old, when Paige received her first sewing machine. A Singer handed down to her by her grandmother who was also the one who taught her to sew. 
It’s always fascinating to me a designers first memory of wanting to design, especially when they were so young when they discovered the love. Behind the headlines, I want to know Paige's original story and all that came before. 

EV: Hayley, what was your first memory of design?

PAIGE: My grandmother used to sew and knit blankets for the children’s hospital. My dad was a general surgeon growing up, so she taught me to knit and crochet blankets. And so, one of my earliest memories is gifting of the blankets to the children and the faces that would light up. I think very early on I learned that you make things for people and they get this visceral happiness and joy for that. 

EV: Do you know who taught your grandmother to sew?

PAIGE: I’m not sure. She was just a very crafty person. I think that generation valued making of things. My grandfather was in World War II, and she was a real homebody—she was a very good baker as well. 

EV: I see you’ve always loved wedding dress design. Even when you designed your own prom dress, it was very wedding dress inspired! What is it about wedding dresses that is such a draw to you?  Is it the dress itself? Is it the fairytale of the wedding day?

PAIGE: I love the companionship and commitment that come with marriage in general, this idea that you find a soul that just answers to your soul. When you make it official, you get to wear this dress that represents the love of it. There’s this carry-forward of something beyond the dress that’s really meaningful. Fashion can be fun and meaningful as well but this is that one dress that represents so much, so it’s got the meaning and sentiment too. 

EV: And you’re engaged now?!

PAIGE: Yes! Six years. 

EV: Are you going to get married soon? 

PAIGE: Heck yes! (laughs)

EV: And of course, you’re designing your own wedding dress? Have you started?

PAIGE: So…Yes and no. I feel so lucky because I’ll probably have multiple dresses, and so I’m taking some liberties in that, like oh I like some of these details that I’m going to incorporate and put them together. But one thing I will say, since we create our fabrics from scratch and I love storytelling through them, I definitely think I’ll design a print or a lace from scratch that tells a story of our relationship.
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EV: That sounds incredible. And your fiancé has been with you through this whole period of time?

PAIGE: Yea! Hell and back, hell and back! 


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EV: Your story reminded me of Taylor Swift fighting to own her masters, you really set a precedent by fighting for your name. How did you get through that time when your own name—your identity—was stripped away? It’s not just a design name, it’s who you are. Your literal identity. 

PAIGE: It was very helpful having a support system. I think, that now I’m on the other side of it, that’s also why I started the non-profit—I felt so lucky to have a support system and this real rally. I have these amazing brides that didn’t feel tarnished by what was happening. They still valued the connection, they still valued the reputation that we built and all these dresses, and even though something darker was happening, it wasn’t all bad. It gave me good accountability to get me through it.

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An emotional moment for fans of Hayley Paige

PAIGE: I would also say that because so much was happening, I lost my name, I lost my Instagram, I couldn’t design—it was almost like, “When it rains, it pours.” I almost took some humour in it, that this was almost so ridiculous. And I told myself, “It can’t last forever—and if it does, I’ll find a way to make something funny out of it.” So, I think a lot of humour kind of helped me be a little joyful even in those times. 
 
EV: So, there was never moment where you thought, I’m done. I won’t design wedding dresses again?

PAIGE: No. I think there was a real defiance, defiance, like yea, this is my story. I have to figure this out. Also, because so much had been taken, I was like well,  
You can’t take my story, that’s mine to own
So that’s where some of the ownership and governance was coming back to me. And I could still create other things, which kept my creativity alive.

EV: You went into shoe design—did you explore other types of fashion during that time?

PAIGE: I was nervous to go into any kind of apparel or dresswear because of how strict the legal restrictions were, so I stayed away from that stuff, but I did think of other things to do like painting, or sculpture, home design. Shoes were actually the most transgenically closest to dresses because you have the pattern, and brides buy dresses and then the shoes next. In hindsight, I might have gone into a non-sized accessory, because I learned so much about business. With shoes, you have to guess size runs, house inventory—it was a really hard lesson, especially in e-commerce. But I’m so grateful; it kept us connected with our girls and gave us a home and identity during that time.

EV: Your brides really showed up for you! And the same brides from before were buying your shoes?

PAIGE: Oh, they were incredible. They were like: “Give me the shoes! We’re supporting you!” 

EV: And they flooded JLM’s IG with comments?

PAIGE: Yes, totally with unicorn emojis everywhere—it felt like our own Taylor Swift-style movement with the snakes. I have saved screengrabs of unicorns all over the page.
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EV: They probably had to shut off the comments?

PAIGE: Yes at one point, comments were shut off on that page. 

EV: I also love your sizing system. Was that created because brides felt self-conscious about sizing, or did you just want to eliminate the traditional system altogether?

PAIGE: It is just kind of a buzz kill. It really is. First of all, bridal sizing is very antiquated—because a lot of the stuff we go off measurements is a very antiquated sizing chart. You based on outdated couture sizing.
 
EV: And you studied couture?

PAIGE: Yes, I studied couture and I studied fibre science. So, what’s really interesting about how they do production categorization, that’s where sizing came from. It was a way that they could take measurements and confine them into a categorization for when their cutting ticket comes so it’s not saying three different sizes, it’s just saying one size. And that’s what they go off of for production. But in wedding dress world, you still have to go off the measurements anyway and it’s altered to fit you anyway. It’s like this isn’t the moment you need to be thinking about a size and discomfort.

Maybe there are other parts of life that you are going to be uncomfortable but this is not one of them, “Not today!” So anyway, what we created was a new sizing chart and it’s all based off of flowers and it doesn’t go in increasing orders, it doesn’t have to. You could actually totally rearrange the numbers on a size chart as long as it’s the same cutting ticket. It was one of those things where it was like we’ve been doing it like this for a really long time and is this the best way to do it? And it’s not, so just, get the measurements and call it a day. Here’s a flower, go live your life! ​

EV: What inspired this collection? The first collection since reclaiming your name!
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PAIGE: Yes! When I left the company, we had nearly 200 SKU’s. Like over ten years we had a number of dresses in the collection. Even after 6 years. When we got the IP back, I didn’t actually get the physical dresses, so everything had to be remade from scratch, all the patterns, all the fabrics, all the sourcing, everything. I still felt I wanted the signature DNA of Hayley Paige to be alive, but I also want it to feel like it’s grown a little bit. And it still has this fun energy where it’s like, we aren’t afraid to put a rainbow dress or glow-in-the-dark dress, like let’s get silly with it.


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EV: That unicorn magic! 

PAIGE: Yes, that Unicorn magic! But I also felt like each one is so unique, that really the inspiration is individually focused on each dress. Like when I talk about the collection, it’s so eclectic. Just like the brides themselves. It’s not very a cohesive and that’s not normal. But why should it be? This girl is way different than that girl. I kind of embrace that a little bit which I would say is not as common in high fashion, where it’s often like, “What are you trying to say here?” But for me it’s like I can say something with each individual dress. But not so much as a collection. This piece (points to the rainbow-coloured dress) was actually meant to be just a show piece. But the stores were like, “No we want to sell that!” And we’ve sold it at every single trunk show we’ve had! It’s so good. One bride with rainbow came in and said, “This is my dress.”


EV: I saw it online and then I saw it in here and, honestly you can’t help but smile when you see it!

PAIGE: I know!!!

EV: During the period when someone else was designing under your name, how did that feel? 

PAIGE: It felt like a misrepresentation. I guess there was like a tiny bit of shame with it just because it didn’t feel like the voice was connecting right. And really with all the things that have happened, the relationships with brides have always been the most important. Staying in touch with the brides and feeling like you have this connection. It’s a love language. This is the only way I feel real confidence. I know two things, one is dress design, the other we’re still figuring it out! That is literally it. And so, when I couldn’t do it, I couldn’t say what I wanted to say, but it was harder to not victimise myself. Because I didn’t want to be like, “Oh poor me.” Because I signed the contract. And this happened, and it is what it is. So, there was a part of it that was like we have to manage a day at a time. What is the best step forward and not get too bogged down in the weeds of it. And it’s like, “Ok well this is happening, someone else is designing for it, and can’t use my name, can’t get my Instagram, so start a new Instagram, start making shoes, and get out there!”

EV: Will you bring back any of your older, iconic dresses?

PAIGE: We might! What I love now, is that the collection feels nostalgic—almost like these amazing luxury brands that have heritage behind them. They’ve been around for a hundred years. And I’m a newer brand. You know the last twenty years. And with that kind-of-stuff you do want to think about legacy and longevity a little bit and when I bought the collection back, I felt all of a sudden like this homecoming, like we have vintages now!

EV: You have the OG’s!

PAIGE: Exactly!!! Some brides come to events and say, “I got married in 2011, or 2012,” and I’m like oh you’re like a ride or die. That’s over ten years ago now and so it’s so special. It made the brand have a lot more story behind it. It’s them that really care. 

EV: Were you still sketching during the time you couldn’t design publicly?

PAIGE: All the time. I was also a little afraid of losing it. You know what I mean? I really believe, like gymnastics I did growing up, if you don’t practice and you’re not thinking and doing. It’s out of sight out of mind. And maybe the industry moves on without you. I was nervous. I knew at some point I was going to design dresses again. I don’t know if I’ll be able to get my name back but I’ll be able to design, so let’s keep it top of the line at least. Even if you can’t do it performatively. 

EV: And you did! And you listened to the Beach Boys song, “Make it Big” when you got your name back?

PAIGE: Oh my God you’re so good, you’ve done your research, (laughs) 

EV: Of course! “See your name spelled right”! (Lyrics from Make it Big)

PAIGE: Yes! Oh my Gosh, so good. That’s from, Troop Beverly Hills, That original song. So, in the very beginning of the movie there’s an artist, Robert Graham, and he does the animation for Troop Beverly Hills in the beginning, and it’s to the Beach Boys song, “Make it Big” And as a kid I was like that’s my theme song! So that’s actually THE song I played when I got my name back, I was like.. boop...Play!

And play Paige is, making it big…with her name spelled right. And we couldn’t be more thrilled for her. 
 

​With thanks to Lovella Bride store  @lovellabridal
Location: 224 S Brand Blvd, Glendale, CA 9120
PR: In Good Company (Carly Long) 
Photo credit: @weddingbysylvie
Florals: @avantgarden
Sweets, cakes and cookies: @thebutterend

Hayley Paige Website. 
Hayley Paige IG
A Girl You Might Know Foundation 

LEGACY JEWELS- BY PTERA JEWELRY

6/12/2025

 
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One of the things I love most about meeting with designers and interviewing them, is hearing the designer's stories. I love knowing why they started their brand, what the inspiration is behind their collections and hearing the personal story of what got them to where they are today. It deepens not only my understanding of their brand, but really adds layers of meaning to the pieces they've created. It's really a privilege to have these artists share their stories with me and this was especially true when I met Jennifer Fleites of Ptera Jewelry, whose story touched and moved me in a way I hadn't expected and stayed with me long after I'd left the city.  

I was in Flying Solo in New York the day I interviewed Fleites on zoom. I’d been interviewing a series of designers in store that day as it was shortly after New York Fashion week and a collection of designers were still in the City. Fleites had already left but her pieces were downstairs in the showroom as they are available in Flying Solo for shoots. 
 
Her pieces were beautiful, delicate, timeless. And Fleites story, her personal outlook and the true resilience she possesses was so inspiring, so much so that when I was interviewing her and listening to her experiences, losing both her parents at a young age, I was momentarily lost for words. 
 
As soon as we sat down to meet, virtually, via zoom even through the screen, her personality and the richness of the meaning behind her pieces came through. 
 
Fleites is a second-generation Cuban, she wasn’t born when her parents arrived in the United States, but after they arrived in New Jersey, she tells me, “It’s been really awesome seeing my parents really work for everything that they had. That’s always been in the back of my head, wanting to live by them. Live by their example.”
 
Fleites, sadly lost her mom when she was in high school and it was this that really set her on the path of wanting to begin her own jewelry line. A tribute to her mom, a legacy that she could pass on to those she loves. Fleites says, “Since then, when I received (my mom’s) jewelry pieces, that’s always been something that’s kept me close to her so that’s something I’ve kept close to me when I’m designing jewelry. I always have that type of style in mind. That elegant old timely, very feminine type of girly look. That’s just what speaks to me and I hope to speak to other girls and other women in that same way.”
 
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Having had her own mother’s pieces passed down to her, she has wanted to create heirloom pieces that other people can keep in their family and continue passing down through the generations, “I’m starting to design some solid gold pieces. I’m hoping to dive deep into that heirloom type of world where people can pass that down. Their heirloom pieces, to their little girls. That to me is a big part of what I do, is being able to have that nostalgia feeling to it. The pieces that I love designing are the pieces that remind me of that type of feeling. Of being young and looking at my mom’s jewelry and playing dress up and feeling like a princess.”
 
However Fleites hasn’t always felt so comfortable expressing this type of femininity, she says, “As I grew older, I don’t know why but I had it in my head that being feminine and girly was bad and I had to be the tomboy for people to like me. So I always put that down inside of me. So growing up and maturing there’s no need to do that. I am who I am and if I like that girly thing then why not dive into that part of myself?” 

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​With her collection Fleites is embracing that side of herself and in doing so hoping to encourage others to do the same, “I feel like a lot of other women feel like that. Society has that pressure of, you need to be a specific person, like if it’s just one extreme or the other. My jewelry serves to remind people that they don’t have to look like everyone else. They don’t have to have the jewelry that everyone else has. If they like flowers I have jewelry with flowers and if they want to feel girly when they’re wearing their pieces I can do that for them too. It’s always really nice to see people reacting to my pieces. I can see how it brightens their day. I’ve always wanted jewelry that’s made me feel that way. Every time I’ve looked at jewelry in the past, it was always just jewelry, kind of plain, it’s just an adornment. But now designing jewelry and have it be an extension of myself and my personality, it helps me dive deep into jewelry as an art form, as a way of expression and personality rather than just an adornment, so for me that’s always big seeing how other people can relate to my personality also.” 
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Fleites latest collection is now inspired by not only her mother who she lost when she was 16 but now also her father who also just recently passed away. 
 
Fleites tells me, “These past few weeks I was at NYFW with Flying Solo which was super exciting and I got to show my new collection which is called ‘Dust Till Dawn’ and this one is more relating to the night and day. That one is inspired by, you know how I told you I lost my mom when I was in high school? well I also lost my dad during covid and that became a very dark time for me, because that for me, in my head that was like, that’s never going to happen because I’ve already lost my mom. Losing my mom, I learned so much in that. I would go to my dad so much. I did a lot to make him know that I loved him. But I wasn’t prepared for that. That for me became a really dark part of my life where I didn’t see the good in anything and it felt like I was in the dark and slowly I started coming out of that. And during that time I met, my now fiancé and he was there for me a lot and he became that light for me and really made me see the good in everything. Sometimes I feel like my dad and God sent him my way. God was getting ready to send him to me when I needed him most.” 
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Fleites continues, “This new collection serves to embody that in the night and day. The day has a lot of vibrant hues, like the red and orange and then the night still embodies a beauty too. Because even in those dark times there’s always going to be a light there to guide you. Whether it be stars or you know sometimes when it’s cloudy and you can’t see the stars knowing that they’re still there and the moon helps illuminate your path as well. And so the collection really serves to embody that sense of home. That there’s always going to be light at the end of your dark path.” 
 
With Fleites losing both her parents at a young age it’s incredible to hear her so resolute in seeing the light even in the darkest of times. She tells me, “There is always a reason, it’s always depressing hearing it when it happens but there really always is a reason things happen and you really just have to go through it and see what you’re supposed to learn.” 
 
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​Fleites has always felt creative and everything she has gone through has only pushed her creativity further, “I’ve always been creative. Always the one who was painting and doing friendship bracelets and making little things with sand. Always loved doing arts and crafts and making things. When I was growing up though I always felt like I needed to lean away from doing anything artsy, and do something practical so being able to get into jewelry and make this my life is really important to me because I really love design and I love creating things and seeing how people respond to them. I told myself if when I was little this is what I’d be doing, I know my mom would be so, so excited. I know she’d want to help me, she’d have a bunch of ideas, “let’s use this stone, let’s do this.” To me it’s making that inner girl happy.”
 
Fleites collection is certainly a tribute to her mother and largely influenced by her mother’s aesthetic. “My mom’s style of jewelry was more of that timeless, antique, very elegant, daintier type of jewelry. I know right now that big chunky pieces are really in, but that’s never been my style. My design as always been to my preference and I know a lot of women generally prefer more of the smaller pieces, day to day.” I tell Fleites that I love that her pieces really enables the customer to make them their own, easily stackable and you can layer them and interpret how you want them to be.
 
“Exactly!” Jennifer agrees, “If you want to do a little bit more one day you can stack them, you can play around with other pieces you have in your collection.”
 
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It’s not only Fleites personality and optimism that impresses me but her background as well. Seeing her parents struggle to create a new world for themselves, and that strong work ethic and wanting to continue that on for them. To honour them. To carry on their legacy. 

I ask her where she learnt to make jewelry, “I took some courses on jewelry making on learn, through a British academy. I went to school for engineering and architecture. So my first year I had started in architecture so I started more in that kind of design, creating space. But then I decided I didn’t want to do architecture so I decided to do engineering. And through engineering I learnt how to do more of that 3D modeling. That’s a lot of what I do now is sketching things out and then creating a 3D model of it, that gets printed in a castable 3d resin. And then the pieces are then cast and finished and then the stones are set in them. Those two first years of architecture and engineering have really helped me in the creative space, because I’m able to visualize that 3D approach and I’m really able to step outside and think about things differently. In regards to interweaving the real world with design. Putting those concepts together is really from architecture and engineering. Obviously there’s a lot more I learnt in engineering that I’m not using now.” She laughs.
 
Fleires gold pieces are made of vermeil that consists of sterling silver base, plated with a heavy layer of 18K carat genuine gold, “So all my pieces are silver and gold, there’s no base metals like copper or brass or anything like that.”
 
Fleires price point is $40-400 and her solid gold pieces that are separate to that are average around $3,000.
 
Find Ptera Jewelry at:
 
Ptera Jewelry 
Ptera Jewelry IG
 

LD-13 : THE CLOTHING BRAND THAT ASKS, "HOW DOES IT MAKE YOU FEEL?"

4/27/2025

 
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There are certain designers who just know what they want to do, a creativity within them that just needs to find it's home and their creativity can flourish. 
 
Lisa Deurer is one of those artists. Born in Germany, in a small town in Augsburg, close to Munich, to two parents who always encouraged her creativity meant that Deurer was exploring what she wanted to do from an early age.

Here Deurer tells me about how she got started in the world of fashion, how her gender fluid, locally made, clothing brand LD-13 was born, and how out of a darker time in her life she really found what she was meant to do. The evolution of Deurer's process has led her to creating a brand that focuses on how her clothes make her customer feel. Not putting a label on them, or the clothes themselves, but focusing on the confidence and comfortability her clothes evoke. But let's start at the beginning, because her journey is a fascinating one. 
 
“My mum and dad instilled creativity in me from 2-3 years old. I actually first did a detour, I played soccer a lot growing up, to a teenage phase. I got almost to a professional level back home in Germany. But too many injuries led me to give up that career. I had to go through several operations.”
 
This took its toll emotionally on Deurer, as she tells me, “ After that I had a mental illness, and that really led to art therapy and that really sparked that interest in art again from a different perspective.”
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Despite this dark time, and a turn of career from what Deurer thought she might have been headed for, she came out the other side, and it was through this difficult time, that she really rediscovered her love of the arts and creating. “I really understood how I could use art as a medium to communicate and after school, I thought, now what’s next? So I went to New York."
 
"My family always used to travel to the states, New York at that time was very liberating for me. I felt it was a sign that I needed to go to an art school maybe. Parson’s felt like the right fit for me. So I went to the admissions office, and I met this person called Katie. I showed her my art portfolio, this was in 2016 and she told me, “Hey girl I can see you have talent, but I don’t see you yet in your art work” 
 
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Deurer continues, “I was very 2D orientated then" She told Deurer, "Just go out and live art over the summer and show me what you create when you come back. Get back to business and show me what you’ve done." 
 
Deurer took her advice to heart and did just that, “I asked my grandmother over the summer, “Can you show me how to sew?” at this stage, Deurer tells me she didn’t even know how to sew a button on a shirt, but she was really interested in learning, “She just taught me hand-stitching and I just fell in love with it. My grandmother said to me that I was picking up things really fast and she thought I had a talent there. And I just kept going. I was doing local courses in sewing and really exploring this 3D perspective. Then I showed Katie what I did over the summer." Katie told her, "You really exploded from where you left off over the summer, you really took off."
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In the November Deurer showed Katie her portfolio again, and she said, “I’m not allowed to tell you, but we want you.” It was the moment Deurer realized, “I am good at something, I need to pursue this.” 
 
Deurer wanted to explore and know every aspect of the industry, to be aware of every stage that went into creating a business. After she put her portfolio together, Deurer did an internship in fashion with a company that is no longer in business in Germany. However it took her through all the stages she'd soon need to know for herself, from production, assistant designing, sorting collections, doing the "shitty work", every aspect, but she loved it all, “It taught me that pursuing fashion wasn’t just a flimsy idea, but something that I was meant to do, so I kept on going.”
 
“Parson’s was so liberating for me” Deurer says, “After the foundation year, I did a fashion course, then when my teachers asked me to sew a pencil skirt, I did it, but my pencil skirt always stretched the boundaries. It wasn’t a typical pencil skirt. Then the dean began to notice me, and they really supported me there.”
 
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One opportunity that led to where Deurer is now, was the chance to meet with Isabella Rosellini. In 2019 Rosellini invited a materiality and systems class to her farm because she felt that students didn’t know where materials came from anymore and that needed to change. 

“She really sparked a fire there for me.” Deurer says. “Being from a very small village called Augsburg, that in the 15th Century used to be the textile hotspot and where people traded. We were getting our wool just outside of the city center. And I thought, wow, we used to have all this, we used to work with wool local breeds. Why don’t we do this anymore? And she was telling us in the U.S we have so many breeds but no one makes use of that."
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We get our wool from Australia because it has fine microns but why do we have to ship it across the world if we have it here? We just need to be more creative in the way that we mix materiality characteristics together. Like with mohair, there are so many possibilities there. I thought, damn, she’s hitting a point, I want to know more about it.
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​This was a huge turning point for Deurer and has undoubtably brought her to where she is today. “That made me really put all my research on wool. When Covid hit, in New York there was a total lockdown and I flew back home to Germany for a few months, but that didn’t stop me from calling farmers in the US and asking them, 
Do you want to collab with me for this thesis? I have this crazy idea and I don’t know if it will work but I want to source wool from you. I want to work with American wool in Connecticut and produce a heritage breed textile that doesn’t exist yet. One farmer in Pennsylvania said yes to me. It was from the breed romeldale. It’s very similar to merino breed, it has similar characteristics, and she had 200 sheep back in Pennsylvania. I said I will convince my thesis director to work with American wool. After that he put me in touch with Jacob the CEO from American wool. I pitched to him, and then that’s how it got going, he loved the idea, we sourced 500 pounds. I talked with a guy who would wash my wool, a guy down south in Alabama. And then we got  it shipped back to Connecticut to American wool and they wove our textile. It took two years and was a lot of work but I got three hundred meters of my own textile from the sheep that I know in Pennsylvania.
 
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Deurer graduated from Parsons in 2020 and as soon as she did, she hit the ground running. By 2021 she had created her gender fluid brand, LD-13. 

She had worked together with Isabella Rossellini throughout school and began doing things outside of school because people were requesting pieces of hers, "That's how it all started" Deurer tells me, “With Isabella I was working on the supply chain in school in the U.S and that really kickstarted everything. I was producing my own textiles. I was working in the garment district with a few people on site. So doing LD-13 after school felt like a natural next step.”
 
“Right now in the garment district in New York we are working on a coat that we are pitching to the wholesale people and are starting to sell in the U.S.”
 
Deurer, is inspiring, despite being a new brand, she knows the possibilities of making pieces locally, having done it before she'd even graduated and with the added challenge of Covid at the time, she still managed to make it work. Deurer tells me, 
 Local production is possible, you just need to keep talking together and working together and putting things in place
Deurer goes back and forth between New York and Berlin with a community in both places. She is now working with a Berlin photographer which has currently brought her back to Berlin. She also has a team in NY that are in the process of selling to wholesale. 
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​As for her brand LD-13, and the inspiration behind creating a gender fluid brand, Deurer tells me is down to her never setting boundaries for herself. Her mother was also the same, creating pieces of clothes that she likes for herself. Still very tailored base, wearing what she wants. Dressing in what makes her feel comfortable and confident and not putting a label on what she chooses to wear. 
 
Deurer tells me, “I really like the concept of Ray Kawakuba, (Japanese designer) who doesn't believe in having a mirror in her store, but more having customers feel how they felt in her clothes, not seeing a reflection and thinking ‘You look crazy,’ but how do you feel in these clothes?”
 
Not every piece in the collection is gender fluid but most pieces are, Deurer says. However she will say that men who have more of a softer side to them tend to look more suited to her clothes. Sometimes Deurer herself will see a man in her pieces, like the skirt and be blown away by how good it looks on them, mix-matching the pieces to suit their style.
 
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Deurer is headed into wholesale as we speak. She is in touch with, “Charles, who is from Hong Kong. I met him through mutual friends in the garment district." Deurer showed him her pieces and said "I would love to move into wholesale, you know my pieces, my brand, can we work together?" It was a perfect fit, as Deurer tells me, "He’s worked for John-Paul Gautier in the past and he gets all the edginess and avant-garde aspect of my work." 
 
A brand from a designer that knows every step and process of her garments and that allows her customer to wear what they want and interpret the pieces as they choose? Count me in.. 
 
Find LD-13 at:


Website: LD-13
FLYING SOLO 
IG: LD-13

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OLENA NEW YORK BAGS- FOR ARTS SAKE, MINIMALISM IS DEAD

4/20/2025

 
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​Olena Wills is a rare kind of artist. A woman who is a blend of her Ukrainian background, science, art, theatre and the chapters of life she has lived, her art is a culmination of her experiences and her experiences inform her art. 
 
When I visited Flying Solo to see the latest talent featured at their New York store fresh off of NYFW I was instantly drawn to the display of stunning bags by Olena. Their structure, the colours, the interesting shapes, the quality of the leather and the fact that Olena is one of the few artisans left in the United States that uses hand stitching in the making of her bags. She really is redefining how one should view luxury fashion. It's certainly not just a label, but a craftsmanship, she is telling the story of a talented artisan creating timeless works of art. 
 
To understand the beautiful construction of Olena’s bags and the craftmanship behind the collection it’s important to know where Olena herself has come from.
 
Olena’s background is certainly extensive. Pushed by her parents to have a more stable academic background, Olena gained formal training in mathematics, physics and economics, as well as studying art and photography. However Olena tells me, “The artist inside was breaking out” and so came a career change. 
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Originally from Ukraine, and a second-generation tailor, Olena used to help her mother when she was younger and later began pattern making at age 13. She really always wanted to sew, following in her mother’s footsteps but her mother always told her she was, “Too clever to sew like me” but later Olena told her mother, “I studied as you wanted me to but I want to sew, and unlike you, I love it.” This passion has led her to an incredible career, taking her to so many corners of the world of fashion, art and costume design. 
 
At age 20 Olena already had a small client list, making a variety of garments including prom dresses and jackets. In New York Olena attended FIT. Her talent was instantly recognizable and soon she caught the eye of Broadway, later became a Broadway costume designer at John Kristiansen, producing custom costumes including Frozen, Cat’s, The Greatest Showman and The American Gods, dressing David Bowe and Gillian Anderson, amongst others. Olena also has an eye for capturing art behind the lens having studied photography in England, all of which have helped her creativity and vision for her brand. 
 
However ten years ago, Olena had her ‘aha’ moment. In 2013,
Hermès did a 'leather forever' fashion show celebrating 175 years of craftmanship, where artisans in real time displayed the artistry that went into making one of their pieces. It was a huge revolution, a moment where people realised they could make bags with designer quality if they wanted to. 

Olena began to hand stitch bags, using a French technique. She’s almost entirely self-taught but had a teacher from France who said that her technique is the same of that of an
Hermès bag and this is the technique that Olena uses herself. Soon after Olena New York bags were born and each bag tells a story.

Collections inspired by the New York architecture, some bags you can see the Manhattan skyline, the sun, a skyscraper. The New York taxi, whilst also integrating French, Ukraine avant-garde art. One collection is inspired by the Salvador Dale clock, the shape of the feminine body, all done by hand. Another by the Statue of liberty, “This is what time does, it washes away things” Olena tells me. 


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The price of the bags reflect the amount of time spent on the creation of the bags, some taking from 120 to 160 hours to complete. Olena does use exotic materials but having studied sustainability, she works with people who supply exotic material in America and has educated herself on how it works, using it very carefully and doesn’t mass produce these pieces. They’re done with the highest of standards and limited quantities. Olena is very careful and conscious about the way she creates her pieces and how she makes them.
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Olena's collection includes both architectural and artistic handbags, as well as an Art Deco collection available in different sizes. The Deco bag comes in both leather and exotic variations. She also has the Manhattanhenge and Manhattanhenge Mini bags, along with her latest designs—the Surreal bag and the Copper Wave bag.
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​I ask if Olena will go back to also making clothes? “Actually, I started doing a clothing collection in September as my friend wanted to do a charity for Ukraine (Fashion for Ukraine charity) and I wanted to do it. For thirty years I was designing clothes, and then for a while I refused to do it, but now I’ve come full circle, wanting to create a full look, with the bags being a part of that look.”
 
When it comes to her clothing design, Olena likes embroidery, an aesthetic that Ukraine uses a lot of, but Olena uses it in her own way, in a slightly more artistic way. The use of natural fabrics like linen and natural silks are her preferred material but she’s certainly not minimalist.
 
“Some describe it as ‘too much’” Olena tells me, but “I’m always inspired by my own exeriences. My husband had a heart attack, so one collection I embroidered a big heart on the clothes.” Inspired by designers like Frida Kahlo, she’ll also take inspiration from the colours of a painting, or even an event that can be the catalyst of a new collection. 
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Olena pulls out her phone and shows me an Instagram photo of her collection, a dress, from her ‘To Frida’ collection, the dress has three layers of silk, transparent, layered. Ukraine has inspired her in another, an artist she worked with who did a drawing that she worked into the piece. Sometimes she’ll use lazer to cut some of the pieces, some embroidery. This collection, Olena tells me is all inspired by her husband who sadly passed. Olena tells me, 

The skirt opens up, and the blood is shown inside. As Schiaparelli said, minimalism is dead..
Indeed it is.
 
Find Olena New York bags at:
 
IG: Olena New York
Website: Olena New York
Shop at: Flying Solo
 

BRADELIS- THE COMFORTABLE UNDER COUTURE

4/5/2025

 
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Model wears Classy Bra

​Comfortable couture, a term I’ve penned to sum up Akiyo Hirakubo’s brand Bradelis. After meeting with the company and discovering the ethos behind the innovative lingerie company it was the best way to describe Bradelis, a company that are putting women’s confidence and voices at the forefront of importance.
 
With their headquarters in Japan, founder Akiyo Hirakubo began the company in 1991. After studying abroad in the U.S and encountering the experience of getting fitted in the U.S for a bra, she realized how important that experience was. That it wasn’t just an undergarment she was purchasing but something that can give you a quiet confidence, a wow experience that she wanted others to experience. So it inspired her to begin her own line of lingerie, something she felt was perhaps missing for a winder customer in the market place. 
 
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Model wears Luminous Slip

​The mission of Hirakubo is a simple one. She wants women to feel good in their own skin. To know that one size doesn’t fit all, that different body types exist and they are all beautiful. She wants to give women a positive experience when being sized and purchasing their bras. 
 
A shocking statistic of 80% of women in the Unites States are wearing the wrong size bra and perhaps an even larger percentage of women don’t feel comfortable in their own skin and are neglecting this part of themselves.
Hirakubo wanted to help change this.
 
The company was founded in 1991 in Japan, expanding to NY in 1994. Japan now has 20 stores with 160 store staff. The key to the company is the personal experience, so the knowledge of the staff members was of huge importance to
Hirakubo, giving them over 600 hours of training to ensure that every customer got that personal positive experience. She wants to give her customers the experience of feeling truly comfortable. Especially those that feel insecurities with themselves, to give them that confidence to feel good in their own skin. To break away from the image that every body type has to fit into a standard ideal, Hirakubo really wants her customers to embrace themselves. 
 
In order to reach a wider customer the company expanded their online business and has a QVC presenter who represents the brand with the company mission of encouraging women to embrace themselves. Sales staff are not only selling the products but fitting and consulting and semi-customizing the bra to suit their customer, everything from strap length, to removing or adding pads for the customers preference, a customised personalised experience which is the DNA of the brand. 
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​The customer’s voice is really at the heart of shaping and developing Bradelis. The bra has 15 patents on their pieces. One of which is the three-layered tunnel support on their bra. It supports from three sides, including the front of the breast, so it creates shape but with comfort. It doesn’t cut into the skin but rounds the skin with no underwire needed. The cup is almost in a smooth curve, there is so much detail in each component. Wireless but still giving support, holding up, but not with any wires that are going to dig into the skin.


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Model wears seamless push-up wireless shaping bra. 

The company is always listening to their customers feedback, what they need and then incorporates that into the development of their pieces. Every season, there’s new developments, perhaps tiny things but always putting the customer at the forefront and having their voices heard and not trying to standardise the woman’s body.

Hirakubo chose New York as the city to set up the company in the US because it’s a creative city, has a confidence to the city that resonates with the brand, reflecting Bradelis own ethos.

Lingerie really can change how a woman feels about themselves. When Hirakubo was at the store and she heard the customers from the fitting room speaking about their positive experience of trying on a Bradelis bra from the changing room, it really touched her. Hearing the confidence coming through, not realizing they could look and feel as confident as they did in the moment of discovering the brand. An inner assurance, a quiet confidence they can carry with them. 
 
Comfortable couture and inner confidence. Something every woman deserves. 
 
Price range is $42 up to and up for more decorated couture pieces.


Find Bradelis at:

IG @Bradelisny
www.bradelisnewyork.com
Stocked at – Flying Solo


  • Photographer: kenji shibata @k_shibataphotographyworks
  • Hair & makeup Stylist: sonoko @sonokopper_hairmake
  • Talent/Model: Matilda @matildanavratil

 

A MOTHERS GIFT- BY LOLITA

3/20/2025

 
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Stacy Fan with designer, Melina of By Lolita
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I'm here in New York to interview jewelry designer Melina for my Flying Solo designer series. As I walk to the end of the store, I find myself standing in front of the designers stunning statement jewelry. Her brand, By Lolita. Melina is wearing a denim shirt and jeans. An ensemble that is so elevated because of the jewelry she’s wearing, of course pieces she has designed herself. A pair of gold dangly earrings incasing a stunning red stone inside that matches perfectly with her red hair and thoughtfully chosen red lip, as well as a long cross necklace layered with another longer gold embellished necklace. The look is cool, chic, but authentically Melina, making it look effortless at the same time. I can already see her jewelry tells the story of who she is. Her pieces say something, they're bright, colourful and without doubt become the focal point of an outfit. 
 
Within minutes of meeting Melina there’s three things that instantly standout to me about the designer, clearly her deep passion for jewelry, it’s been there her whole life, her love and closeness for her family, her mother and son are both her inspiration and driving force and that she was always meant to be here, designing. By Lolita is the embodiment of Melina. 
 
Born in New York but with roots in the Dominican Republic (both her parents are from the Dominican Republic), Melina started her brand 8 years ago. The designer tells me, “I basically grew up in this world. My mom has been a jeweler for 30 years. She inspired me to start my own brand as well.” 
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Designer Melina wearing, By Lolita

Jewelry was always what Melina wanted to do, but she did try and venture into another career before starting her own brand,  “I went to school for Criminal Justice, to John Jay College. Just to make my dad happy”, she laughs, “But deep inside I always knew I wanted to do something with jewelry or fashion, that was really my first love. It was my mom that was really the one who inspired me, her iconic looks back in the 90s and 2000s, she was always the flyest person in the room, she really was. And in my culture it’s really who you are and it tells a story without you even having to speak.”

I couldn’t agree more, I’ve always said fashion is a language of its own, Melina indeed told me so much about herself as soon as we met, even before saying hello.. “Just because of what you’re wearing, people really can relate to that certain piece. I really feel that’s such an important way to connect with an individual. I’ve always just been obsessed with the art of jewelry as well. I have a lot of pieces from my mom, I used to wear her name necklace xoxo, it was such a thing back in the 90s. My dad actually gave it to her and I would wear it all throughout high school. And her name earrings and rings, my dad’s rings as well."

Clearly, Melina has always loved jewellery, ever since she was a young girl. It's in her blood, “The style of the 90s and 2000s actually really inspired me to start my brand because it was everyday pieces, that was my inspiration to start and the things to sell. A lot of chunky rings, a lot of layered necklaces a lot of hoop earrings. Where I grew up that’s what everyone was wearing. And my cousins and my aunts, everybody was just so into jewelry. Even now, but back then everyone was just really into the fashion and that scene. I grew up with my mom selling jewelry in the salons. She would sell jewelry in these types of stores, boutique stores in uptown in Washington Heights. I would go with her to the salons or to the store and I would just watch her. So she was really my teacher in how to do business, how to sell, how to market myself and how to market my brand.”

​​Her mom really has been integral to Melina, shaped who she is and helped her with the inception of her brand.
 
I actually dedicated my last collection to her. It’s called, El lagado’ which is, the legacy, in Spanish. It was me giving her flowers, because she did so much. She provided for all four of her kids and it was time. To let her know, ‘Look what you did for us and where your legacy’s taken me’. The seeds that she planted, now she’s able to see that grow.” 

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Melina with her mother, the muse for her collection El lagado

​Melina gets her phone, “Let me show you pictures. It was literally the most liked collection.” Her mother is stunning and the relationship between mother and daughter shines through in the photos. The photos are from the campaign, “My mother was my muse for that collection”. “I feel like these pictures are so timeless. I will be able to keep them forever.” One picture is of her mother placing a necklace on Melina’s neck, “She’s putting the necklace on me, passing down the throne. It really meant a lot.” Melina shows me her mother in the 90s clearly a real point of inspiration for her, both her mother and that time period. 
 
Another chapter in Melina’s life that changed her was becoming a mother “Back then I would just release things randomly but after I became a mom, that changed me so much. I created a structure for myself and after I became a mom I created my first collection which was called, ‘The World s your Oyster’ and I dedicated it to my son, Valentino. My son has changed me, I love him so much, I see myself being a mom in every lifetime for sure.”
 
“After that I created six other collections and I just feel like every collection I create I’m peeling off a layer of onion, of who I am as a person. I go through so many things in life and situations, when I travel, the people around me. They just inspire me so differently, everything in my life inspired me in a different way. And I just start creating and creating to create a certain collection. It has been life changing after creating collections. Because people are able to identify and relate because people love the story telling of it all. I love creating collections now, it’s really my thing.”
​
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​Melina is currently working on two collections, “I’m releasing one this month, ‘The Cherry on Top’. It’s going to be about cherry’s, tapping into your muse, your inner goddess. Feeling your best about yourself. And then my next collection is going to be called, ‘En La Lucha’ Which is everyday pieces that you can wear. In Spanish En la lucha is a Dominican saying, when people ask, ‘How are you doing?’ they respond, ‘en la lucha’, working, hustling, providing, we’re here every single day but we’re going to make it happen.” A sentiment that Melina is clearly living by herself. 
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"I’m also moving to wedding….brides!” Melina says smiling, "ohhh" I say.. “Everything? Earrings? Bracelets? Headpieces?” Melina replies, “Yes, yes.. I’m thinking about headpieces for brides, right? I’m going to give them everything.” I immediately think as she says this, there isn’t enough standout bridal pieces for brides, “Yes! Especially if it all ties together” I say, Melina replies, “Yes giving them a certain look! I want to release these first two collections first so I can start working on that, because I want to give it my all. I want to do pieces for woman, that’s the important day in their life so I want to make that happen.” 
 
Instantly I can see that her pieces are going to be a unique style for her bridal collection. The pieces in front of me are real standout pieces, beautiful colors and statement pieces, I can imagine a stunning headpiece as a bridal center piece. Would you include color in there? I ask “I want to! Emeralds, ruby’s, colors that mean something to them. The bride is able to identify with them, like a birthstone or something like that. They can use that as an heirloom and pass it down. I’m very excited about that collection.” Melina says smiling. 
 

You truly get the impression when talking to Melina a huge reason she loves to design jewelry is to make women feel the best they possibly can about themselves and making that possible to a wider customer by keeping her price points accessible, starting from $50 and going up to $150 "I want to keep the prices affordable, even though they’re luxe pieces, they are maximalist pieces, you won’t see them anywhere else, I still want people to afford them and wear them. People say, ‘You could sell that piece for $300’ but I always keep people in my neighborhood in mind as well."
 
The margins are a little bit lower but I feel good that everyone is going to be able to afford it. I curate pieces with the best material to be long lasting. I started 8 years ago and I still have clients coming up to me telling me that they still have pieces from 8 years ago.
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Melina continues, "Most of my pieces are statement pieces. But I feel like I started with both maximalist pieces and simple pieces, but now I have pivoted into maximalist pieces. I feel like there isn’t that much maximalist jewelry." Melina says. “There’s a lot less” I agree “And it draws back to your roots, that the center piece of whatever you wore was around the jewelry, that was the starting point of your look.” I add, “Yes! It was everything, I remember in high school I was the girl in high school with a whole bunch of bangles. I was the girl wearing the trendiest jewelry. I look at my pictures I’m like wow, I really was that girl in high school! I remember in college before I even had my business I was already selling jewelry to my classmates, because they were just so obsessed with my pieces, pieces I’d made and pieces from my mom as well” Melina laughs, “I would take her pieces and sell them to my classmates.” Clearly this was a business she was always destined to begin. “That’s what also really pushed me to start my brand, people just asking me constantly, ‘Where can I get this?’ or ‘Can you sell this to me?’ So my friends, and people around me really pushed me. Even when I worked at Zara, I would sell jewelry to my co-workers, so insane..!” We both laugh, "Well they are stunning pieces. Your little babies” I say, “Literally! I feel like, By Lolita was my first baby.” But now I changed it, Valentino first, By Lolita second” Melina gives a loving laugh. Yes, I think, as we wrap up, a mother in this, and every other lifetime. 

By Lolita: IG @bylolitajewelry
Available at: bylolita.com

https://flyingsolo.nyc
 
 

NEED IS THE MOTHER OF INVENTION - KREYA BAGS

3/17/2025

 
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Stacy Fan with Kreya Bag designer, Kulveen Sarna 
Need is the mother of invention…
 
No truer words were spoken when it came to designer Kulveen and the launch of her handbag line, Kreya. I’m at Flying Solo in New York to meet the next designer in my Flying Solo series. 
 
As we approach the display of Kulveen's beautiful handbags in front of us, the designer says “Do you often carry a tote bag and do you feel like it weighs you down? “Yes” I reply, thinking, all-the-time.. “Well, it’s a universal problem, but our bags are meant to be multifunctional so you can turn them into a backpack and so it still looks put together, it still looks chic but you’re not dying on one shoulder while you’re walking around, or traveling or whatever you need to do. So the whole philosophy behind the brand is multi-functional but beautiful. Things don’t need to be one thing. We’re very complex human beings so our fashion should also reflect that and I’ve always been passionate about handbags. So even our crossbodies turn into shoulder bags by changing out the buttons on the side so you just swipe it down. As you use it the leather just becomes softer, so I do this while walking on the street. I call it errands to dinner, or brunch." 

I love it when designers create pieces or accessories that fill a need. Something that makes like just easier and if it's stylish, even better. The bags are suitable to wear on your back around the city or at the airport and then with one simple move later will have you swinging it into work with style, they are made of the most beautiful leather and the new items in a nylon fabric. 
 
"So the thought behind this started for me in college. I went to college in NYC and I would carry 2-3 tote bags with me and walking a mile to class. And at some-point my dad came to visit and he was so distressed by it he bought me a tec backpack and I used it whilst he was in town and then I ditched it because my friends, said, it’s not cool” Kulveen laughs. "I took an accessories design class in college and it kept coming back to me, so that’s where the initial protype started."

​The prototype was a backpack that had multiple pockets including those for your phone or passport, a padded compartment for iPad or laptop enabling you to carry all of your items in just one place. 
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A Kreya bag that goes from backpack to tote in one quick step. 

​Kulveen says, "It's like, how do I look put together but how do I not die from back-pain? I left it alone, and in my head had done my problem-solving exercise and then I went on to work in the world. I started working in fashion, pivoted to advertising, so I was very corporate, but I felt like, I still needed this item that I designed at one point in life. Anyway the pandemic hit, and I just got back into it. I found the prototype I made, and made it technically better. I spent the winter of year 2020 into 2021 doing that. I felt like the need hadn’t disappeared but I felt like once things came back to normal people would still need it. And it was so good for travel and across the board. I really wanted to solve the problem. And that’s when it came together.”
 
“I spent months trying to figure out the design, the technicality of it. I’d taken one pattern making class in school with handbags and so I had some understanding. But did I know the technicality of leather production? Absolutely not! So at one point I quit my job and really fully went into figuring out a way. So I launched in November 2022. It took me a year post quitting my job to get it off the floor. It’s been really wonderful.”
 
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Kreya Bags, compartmentalised pockets to keep all your items organised. 
​

It's not immediately obvious when seeing Kulveen’s beautiful and innovative bags, but her and her family’s heritage has played a huge part in not only the inspiration behind her bag line, but she has so beautifully physically interwoven a part of her family’s roots in the bags.
 
“All of the dust bags are handmade in West Bengal in India which is where my mother family moved to postapartheid in India. I’m ethnically Punjabi. It’s very complicated, Punjab was split into two, half of them went to Pakistan half went to India. Both side of my family are on the Pakistan side. So everyone was displaced. My dad’s side are in Deli and my mom’s side are in West Bengal. Ethnically we don’t look like we are West Bangal and I don’t speak the language (my parents do) but it’s that diaspora kind of effect. I just wanted to play an ode to that.” Kulveen tells me her mother’s parents are the closest grandparents to her and have sadly now passed away. She pulls out a picture to show me, “I have a picture of my grandpa” The resemblance is uncanny. “It’s going to be ten years, so I miss him a lot. But it was my way of keeping that West Bengal, even though technically, in the politics of India... but I still have so much of a hold to West Bengal because of all my time spent there. So that was my way of adding that into something, that obviously means so much to me.” 


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The Aurora bag in brown leather. 

It's this clear love of her grandparents and a longing to pay homage to them and her heritage that sets Kulveen’s bags apart from so many others. “My parents immigrated here; I did spend a couple of years in India where I really got myself immersed in my culture. I was in high school (when I went). It was the most beneficial thing in the world because I really got to spend time with my family and my grandparents. I got to be immersed in the culture and there’s so much in textile and design and fabric in India which is so amazing and to actually see all of that happen in real time. You see the embroidering on the loom and all of that. So that was really beautiful. And I knew in my heart I wanted to pay a tribute somewhere, somehow. So the dust bags were the best way to do it. Hopefully in the future we’ll find ways to bring that into the actual handbags. 
 
Kulveen launched her line in 2022 with four bags, they’re now expanding in both style and colorways. Kulveen has been so incredibly thoughtful when it comes to the design of her bags. The inception was creating a technically functional bag that looked stylish whilst being practical, but she’s also been thoughtful with inclusivity when considering her consumer. 

“We launched a new bag about a month ago. These are in nylon. A version of the Aurora backpack / tote bag. This is the new version and the fabric is called Nova, and it’s a nylon and they have adjustable straps. So the biggest thing I love about doing this is that I always want to be inclusive. This brings in inclusivity in terms of price point, it also brings in inclusivity in terms of sizing. Sometimes you need more room under your arm, sometimes you need more room against your back. So we’ve brought in the same design detail as the crossbody here so you would adjust your straps with the buttons, but you can go as you need. So all of that thoughtful design (is there). All of our bags have a phone pocket. Our backpack tote bag has it one side and in the crossbody it’s in the back. 


 
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The Aurora bag in Nova
​
“For travel this bag is wildly popular. You can take the kitchen sink in here but it still looks compact, it doesn’t look bulky. I’ve had a lot of customer’s feedback that they love this for travel. This one comes with more compartments. A built-in laptop sleeve that you can fit your laptop into. A whole bunch of things. We have expandable snaps on the side so you can expand it.” 

​I take a look at Kulveen's own bag, and she has indeed managed to carry a lot in there. More than I would have guessed looking at it from the outside! "This is when you get to see my kitchen sink..." Kulveen jokes. 


Next month we’re launching more of the bags in canvas. It’s hard to find things on the market that are minimalistic, but still functional and put together. You can wear it to your meeting as a backpack and then when you get somewhere you can use it as a tote so you can just feel a bit more put together.”
 
Kulveen is clearly incredibly intelligent, culturally rounded and I love that she has used the technical side of her brain to create something that blends both her love of fashion with her more logical, scientific way of thinking. Blending the two, she’s created something technically beautiful and chic, and certainly fills a void in the market. 
 
“I was in every art class in school. I dropped science to take a pottery class” Kulveen laughs. "I was also very brainy but I loved art and expressing myself. I went to Parson’s for undergrad. Went into the fashion program, but then I missed the other side of my brain, so I switched my freshmen year, so I switched to strategic design and management which was their design thinking program. So I got to do everything I like to do. I got to be creative, I got to be analytical. And I think it’s always wrong when they say creatives can’t be analytical, I’m like uhuh..take it back, take it back, because that’s not true. So this was a perfect fit for me. I got to do my accessories design class.” 
 
Kulveen has always loved bags, “I used to carry my mom and aunts’ handbags all around the house as though I was going somewhere. At 8 years old or whatever it was, I would always be into their stuff. I always going to Claire’s and find little bags to carry around. So I’ve always loved handbags. Then I kind of switched my design thinking to advertising and I ended up in pharmaceutical advertising so I did like a 180 sort of spectrum, what’s going on…! I missed it. I missed being creative. I got to work with a lot of creatives but I just missed being creative myself. I would do things on the side. My eye was always on the runway stuff, my ear was always on the ground. But I was always a little bit removed from it.”
 
 
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The new Aurora bag in the new nylon fabric. 

A flair for fabrics and fashion clearly runs in Kulveen’s family, “My mum has this insane ability. She’ll touch a fabric and she’ll know exactly what it is. And I’ve always loved shopping with her. Especially in India over the summer break and she’ll be like this is poly, this is pure, this is chiffon, this is silk something. And I’d always be like, ‘wow’…!”

"So she grew up in a world where you got things made and that was what you wore. It wasn’t like the fast fashion world we live in now. I’ve always been around fabric."
 
In a world where we are so often judged by what we look like, what our religion, culture or heritage says about us has most certainly played a part in Kulveen starting up Kreya Bags. That desire to always represent yourself in the best way possible. 
 
“My grandmother, both grandmothers were really into fashion. My aunt, all the women in my family. But the men in my family also really care about the way they present themselves to the world. I’m Sikh, my faith is Sikhism and all of the men wear turbans. 
So we sometimes talk in my family, when you look so different than everyone else, it’s so important to put your best foot forward in how you present yourself to the world and that breaks down a barrier a little bit. It’s funny, it’s just been around our family all the time. Being put together, looking good in front of the world and also expressing yourself in that way. So that’s always been in our system.”
 ​

Giving back is also hugely important to Kulveen, even as a new company. "We like to donate to organizations in India. One of the organizations we have donated to a lot is Palsa Aid. It’s not limited to women and children but they go to areas that are in conflict and go to help them with food and shelter and all of that. That is an organization near and dear to my heart."

Created with heritage and heart in mind, whilst being centred around inclusivity and functionality, Kreya bags are certainly filling a void. And in a time of needing to put our best foot forward, and perhaps breaking down a little barrier, Kreya bags are here just at the right time.  
 
 Kreya Bags are available at :
 
Flying Solo
www.shopkreya.com
IG: @shopkreya
 

 
 
 

THE CINDERELLA EFFECT WITH CELESTE VICTORIA

3/13/2025

 

CELESTE VICTORIA

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Stacy Fan with designer, Celeste. Stacy wearing a Celeste Victoria piece. 

When I meet Celeste at Flying Solo, she has an undeniably beautiful energy about her. Wearing a stunning black top (her own design) her collection is a true reflection of herself. Glamourous and striking yet approachable. As we make our way upstairs to see her collection, Celeste tells me, “Celeste Victoria came about, especially the name of the brand (because it was) me incorporating myself and my grandmother, as she is the one who taught me to sew as a young girl. So when I was coming up with the name of the brand, I wanted to pay tribute to that and create a name that was worthy of my clothing and her legacy. So Celeste is my name and Victoria is her name."
 
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Celeste’s story and road to becoming a designer, unbeknownst to her at the time, began when she was just two years old. 
 
 “I was born in Jamaica, in St. Elizabeth. I was two years old when I moved to stay with my grandmother. I lived with her for the early part of my life, between two and ten. within those periods it was really.. it was hard. But I didn’t understand, actually I didn’t know it was hard, but I learnt now that it had an effect. She already had grown kids, and you know, here I am, this brand-new little baby and my dad had to leave me with her so he could do what he needed to do for the family." 
 
However by Celeste spending her early years with her grandmother, a seamstress, ultimately ended up being one of the reasons Celeste became a designer.  "She was a seamstress, has always been and I remember every weekend, when we would go to the market, she would make bedding, I mean everything. My clothes she made from scratch. Everything I wore from age two and ten was from my grandmother. I mean, I didn’t even know they made clothes… “ Celeste stops and places her hand on my arm, leaning in and with a surprised smiling face, exclaims, “I didn’t even know there was actual real clothes!” I laugh along, “Wait there's a shop?” Celeste laughs. “Like no… and a designer? What is that?” 
 
“She taught me the basics of sewing when she was doing it, how to thread the needle. And it was an old school sewing machine, you know the ones with the peddle? I had to sit on her lap and she would do the peddle and she would show me how to thread the needle and stuff.” 
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After seeing her grandmother the last time in 2021, after the pandemic, Celeste says, “I started just going hard at the fashion, designing. And 2022, life has changed, you have to become more serious.  Before I was always in fashion, I sold in the vintage market, in the flea market in NY, that was my fashion. But this part, I kept it under wraps for a long time, because I’m self-taught. So I wanted to take my time and really develop what it is I want to say to the world before I put it out there. And I was very comfortable with my day job and I didn’t want to complicate my life because I loved my freedom." 
 
Having been a flight attended, Celeste certainly had freedom, a view of the world that has undoubtedly given her an even greater perspective as a designer. But giving up that freedom was a hard challenge for her. “You don’t have a lot of freedom when you decide to step outside of being just an employee and becoming your own boss. And as a small start-up in fashion, oh god! So I wasn’t ready, but the pandemic forced me to be. After that it was just tunnel vision.”
 
“My collection is the progress of my design. I started out with evening gowns and that was for me, the dream. The grand moment of everything. It was me escaping my reality and living in that bubble and thinking about what my future will be. And it will be the woman, that steps on the red carpet in these beautiful gowns that transform you. 
 
It’s a Cinderella effect. And the moment you put on my dress, I promise you, you will have that feeling.”
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​Celeste Victoria's pieces are beautifully structured, the piece I try on at the end of our interview is transformative, as promised. The construction perfection, and as intended able to be worn almost any time of year. Paired back to the matching skort, worn with jeans to instantly elevate, or for almost any season if you layer a roll neck knit underneath. A timeless piece that will see you through every season. 

“As I grew and I taught myself more, and now that I’ve lived that dream. My dream has become that reality and now I wanted to share a little bit more of that with a larger population. So I started to scale back with the evening gowns and getting in to that ready-to-wear market so I could touch every person that wants the dream. And you could own just a small piece of my collection. And I call it that small luxury. You don’t have to have everything. You just need one small piece. And all of my pieces most likely break down into individual pieces that can be worn together or separately. So as a matter of fact, a skirt was ready-to-wear version of the evening gown that I showed with Flying Solo in Paris, 2023. This was the (fabric from the) closing piece" (a gold jacquard brocade material).
 
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“Then I decided to create something a bit more wearable for everyday to go from day to night depending on how you style it and I came up with this piece.” (a stunning skirt that could be paired with a t-shirt and a flat for the day or a bralette for a stunning evening look).
 
“As well, it was the first time I was introducing more of a ready-to-wear so a lot of people didn’t expect it. And I created this top, a halter top in horse print) and a pair of pants and I put it down the runway. And even my friends were like, “Who is that? I don’t know how that is?” Celeste laughs. I said, "Not to worry, I am coming, ok!”
 
“Also I chose this print because I love horses, but I’m also a lover of great prints. I gravitate to prints and it just tells a story for me and it goes back again to how I started with my grandmother. She really, really just gravitated to a lot of really great prints that she sold every weekend in the market, and that’s how I got into fashion altogether or even in to fabrics. They are all meant to be worn individually or separately. And you can just break them down and you add your personal pieces to it.”
 
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“I made everything that I have, to be worn with your personal clothing, because I love fashion. I can’t just wear my clothes, I’d be bored! So of course I need my wardrobe, other designers, pieces to be worn seamlessly with my design. That’s what I try to do. I mean I live in New York, I’m not going to walk around in stilettoes hardly ever, so I made things that could be worn with sneakers or chunky shoes.”
 
After moving to America, Celeste lived in Atlanta, Georgia where her father was a chef, but Celeste later made her way to New York. “I wanted the American dream” she tells me, “It was Sex and The City, New York. I didn’t know anyone here! I didn’t even know where New York was but I was going.” Figuring out a way to be able to see the world by becoming a flight attendant, another decision that has certainly changed Celeste's trajectory in life and sculpt who she is as a designer. 
 
“When I was 15 years old I remember meeting this guy and he’s like, you’d make a cute air hostess. I said, ‘What’s that?’ And he said, 'You know those beautiful women who fly on the plane' and I said ‘no', I’d never even been on a plane."
 
“I didn’t know what I wanted to be as a child, but that stayed in my mind, and I remember, I was at an academic school and they only had one art class, and I was like the number one queen of art class. I knew I never wanted to be a doctor, I’m just not that kind of person. And so I just needed something to hold on to, so when the year book came around and I needed to write down what I wanted to be, I said, 'I’m going to be a flight attendant'. I started applying and I moved to New York.”
 
In 2020 a curve ball was thrown at Celeste. She was due to go to Paris for a year, “I was going to do a year of learning but then that blew up in my face so it was either going to ruin me, I was very hurt, or I was going to keep going and at the end of 2021 starting 2022, Celeste started getting serious and stepped out of her 'bubble', “It’s time.” She says with a steeliness. 
 
But it wasn’t easy. “You’re talking about leaving my handmade stuff in a store for people to tear it apart. Eventually you have to let go, and you’ll grow and that’s what I did. And with Flying Solo, I saw it on IG and they got back to me and I thought, 'What? I’m going to Paris for fashion week?' It was my dream. And it was the right time."
 

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Having travelled as much as Celeste has and lived the life she has, I am sure I know the answer, but I ask anyway, "What is your main inspiration when it comes to your collections?"

“Life! I need to experience, feel something. I need a reason. It could be something as small as, we’re standing here and looking out the window and someone walks by with an energy, or something that they’re wearing and it just tells a story and I’m just alive. But for me I need life. I need travel. Travel for me, is probably the biggest inspiration. Whenever I go somewhere and come back, I’m inspired.”
 
I ask Celeste one last question before we wrap up, so curious now about her grandmothers heritage, her story... "Your grandmother, do you know how she learnt to sew?” 
 
Celeste pauses “I don’t…” she says with a look of surprise. “But you know what? I’m going to have to call her and ask her! I don’t know…I don’t even know what her mother’s name is now that we’re talking about that. I’m going to have to ask her about that. She is 92 years old. She’s still in Jamaica.  I never thought that this would be my life. I had no idea. But I am so grateful, I am so grateful. I don’t know who I’d be if not this. This is just who I was meant to be.” Looking at Celeste's collection, the passion and fire in her eyes, I couldn't agree more. 
 
I add, “She really has helped inform your future career, of who you’ve become. Seeing all this in front of me here, the talent, the skills she passed down and you carrying it on, she must be so proud of you..”
 
“She is, ugh, she is” Celeste says, clearly with a full heart, “I actually really need to go and see and that’s what I plan on doing immediately.” 
 
Find Celeste Victoria at :
Flying Solo, the showroom
Online at https://www.celestevictoriany.com
IG: @celestevictoria_ny
Photo Credit: Jordan Tyler. IG: @jordantylerphotography
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    STACY FAN 



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